Newb to RDA/ Subohm, Battery Help

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JimmyDB

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As the battery voltage drops, a regulated wattage mod has to draw higher current from the battery to get the power.
So to figure out the max amps that the regulated wattage will draw from the battery, you need to use the lowest voltage that the battery will be.

It's the opposite with a mech; with a mech, the battery outputs max amps when the battery if fully charged.

I do understand that the mod will draw more amps as it regulates the output voltage higher to generate the wattage configured. I just haven't heard of someone going the extra step of basing their maximum off the bottom line of the device. I keep getting stuck thinking the 'max ever' versus 'max when low'. I figure it's good advice, that I will try to remember to pass along. In these instances with user replaceable batteries, I always figure the user will recharge or replace the battery long before it just shuts off, but in reality I shouldn't expect that.

EDIT: I'm stupid... max input current... that's what I normally base it off of so that I know it includes the inefficiencies, and in that case the 10A battery wouldn't be 'suitable' anyway. The ipv V1 requires a 15A+ battery.
 
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JimmyDB:14655368 said:
Appreciate it, and yeah that makes a lot of sense, they definitely tried to mislead me, or the shop themselves haven't even taken the time to really learn about it nearly as much as me, because he seemed convinced it was a 30 amp with 60 amp pulse, which seemed unreal and unneeded. It's all starting to make a lot more sense, I started learning about ohms and batteries yesterday, but I think it's finally starting to click, the one thing I need to practice is really understanding what's really going on and knowing the physics behind electrical currents, and knowing how to apply the equations properly, but all in all, I just needed to know my equipment was safe to use, and now I feel much safer with even this extent of knowledge you have helped me with.

Well, what I have seen, is that a lot of the shop tenders have never had a need to know any of this any more than you did previously... so they are playing catch up as well. Your mileage will vary [greatly] with the quality of shop personnel, even in a vape shop :ohmy: so, it's always best to double check for yourself [or triple check, note my sanity check in the math above] and asking questions on places like ECF is great, because there are always people just looking to point out something incorrect ;)

The battery ratings get confusing for the non-initiated as well. We talk about C's... which is the Capacity of the battery, the mAh rating. We talk about 2C, 5C, 10C... in respect to charging UP and well as running DOWN the batteries, and that number can be different... lower charging C's compared to draining C's. Then just to make things crystal clear, we add in CDR and Pulse... both of which basically require the full spec sheet with proper test results to fully understand what's meant. Normally, I always just presume the CDR is up to but not including a catastrophic failure,... i.e., that puppy can get mightly hot, too hot to hold for 5 seconds but not too hot to cause severe burns of an outdoors-type man with thick hands ;)

If you write notes while talking to sales people, they are more apt to double check before just talking :) Log how often you catch them wrong... you don't have to share the info, but a log goes a lot further than just memory/feeling when you need to make that next decision on a purchase at full-on retail.

I *have to* say, if you are just learning ohms law and such... please be really really safe. It's easy to make a mistake [see Edisons notepads, or Tesla's]. Best to stay with higher ohms, especially since you have a regulated mod :) Once you are seriously afraid of what can happen if you make a mistake, then you are ready... once that wears off, is probably about the time you will make your first real mistake :D

It's really not that bad though... a little bit of work to learn and before you know it you can be off and enjoying yourself without worry!

P.S. There are [as you have probably noticed] different battery chemistries as well as batteries that already have protection circuits and some that don't. Just double check what you are buying, and remember... for a couple dollars more, you can basically always get the better battery and not have to wonder as much.

I'm somewhat familiar with it and have studied it over the months for me iTaste svd, and all my batteries and understand the dangers and how you can screw up but until I'm more familiar I'll stick with the same builds, just built my first coils and got it at .5 ohms and it's been hitting like a champ ice just kept it around 20 to 25 watts but still makes me happy, I'm sure as I move to bigger and better I'll try things and most likely fail haha but that's how we learn in life, thanks for all the advice guys you are all awesome
 
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