Nickel Build reading 0.06 ohms safe?

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soupadoopa72

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Hello. New to this forum and I'm sure this topic has been brought up but I'm looking for some insight so I don't blow my face off. It was recommended from a local tape shop that I try twisting 3 strands of 32 AWG Ni200 wire together and doing 3 wraps on a small screwdriver (the little blue ones that come with most tanks nowadays.) and that the sweet spot is and should be 0.06ohms. Building on a Kanger Subtank mini rba Section running it on a VaporShark rdna40 20 watts @ 450 Degrees. I'm using a LG 18650 battery in the VaporShark. Is this build (0.06) safe???
 

danfinger

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I don't think the DNA40 chip would even fire. Specs state that .1 is the lowest it will work with nickel.

You would likely get 'Check Atomizer' message on screen.

Also, three wraps is a 'sweetspot'? No. whoever said that is not your friend. Think about it, what is producing the vapor? Heat applied to the surface area of the wick. 3 wraps equates to very little surface area producing vapor.

I would not return to that place of biz.
 

Baditude

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Amp rating of the battery is not that important in this specific case because the amp limit of the regulated mod's chip takes priority. The mod won't be able to fire that low ohm of a coil ... at least it shouldn't. Different story if it was a mechanical mod as there is no chipset to limit it.

Concerning 0.06 ohms. REALLY?! :facepalm: I agree with tdanfinger - disregard anything that vape shop employee has to say. They do not have your safe interests to heart.
 
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Thrasher

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That store employee was blowing smoke vapor up your .............

There is no point to their ultra low ohm build when you're using temp control.

A 0.15 ohm and a 0.05 ohm coil should produce identical vapes at 450 degrees.
Lol we keep saying the same thing about low sub ohm in regular builds, no one listens then either lmao
 

jseah

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I'm pretty new to TC, but I think that you want to be in the neighborhood of 0.15 ohms

I know the pre-built nickel coils that are available for the Subtank, Atlantis and Nautilus are all around 0.15 ohms. The owner of the B&M who built my nickel coils for me always do 9 wraps with 28 gauge nickel wire, and it measures out right at 0.107 ohms.
 

jseah

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That store employee was blowing smoke vapor up your .............

There is no point to their ultra low ohm build when you're using temp control.

A 0.15 ohm and a 0.05 ohm coil should produce identical vapes at 450 degrees.
Coil temperature is controlling your vape ... not coil resistance.

You could have a different vaping experience with the two coils, depending on the surface area of the coil (i.e. number of wraps) and the heat flux of the gauge wire (how quickly the coil heats up).
 

tj99959

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    You could have a different vaping experience with the two coils, depending on the surface area of the coil (i.e. number of wraps) and the heat flux of the gauge wire (how quickly the coil heats up).

    True only to a point. A lot of that goes up in smoke when using Ni wire & temp control instead of Kanthal and resistance control. It just doesn't make as much difference anymore.

    Only my opinion of course, but the simpler the coil ... the better with Ni wire. You don't even want to squeeze it into a micro coil.
     

    jseah

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    ummmm nope not really.... unless you have a dedicated power supply that can handle the amperage that is required....

    and dont forget.... formaldehyde producing chemicals can be produced at high voltages :evil:

    Bear in mind that the OP is asking about nickel coils, not kanthal. HUGE difference in the measured resistance.
     
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