No airflow in protank 2

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Stefan1997

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Jun 24, 2015
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Hey guys, I've only had good experiences with the protank 2 and so it surprises me to run into any problems like this. The new protank 2 I've bought worked flawlessly for about two days with my 1.5 ohm coil and kbox mini, but now that I've changed the coil, there is absolutely no airflow. I switched back to the original coil and just replaced the cotton to see if the new coil was the problem, but it didn't work anymore either. Any help to figure out why my airflow is gone would be appreciated!
I started replacing things by the way and replaced the base with a protank mini base and it works now...but the whole reason I switched back to the protank 2 was for the bigger chamber to get more vapor with less burning. The problem obviously lies with the base, I just can't figure out what it's problem is.
 

glointhedark

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Try taking a toothpick or a sewing needle and poking it into the airholes on the base. You don't want it to go through the airholes. You just want get any accumulated "gunk" out of the holes. You could also try putting the base under running water and going over it with a clean toothbrush. I have had a similar problem with my Protank 2 Mini and my Evod Glass, and cleaning out the airholes on the bases has usually helped sort the problem out.
 

Maiar

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I just dug my old protanks out to look and see if there's anything we missed that could cause this and I'm not seeing anything that hasn't been checked already.
All I can recommend at this point would be to get yourself an airflow control base. That gets rid of the stock base and will give you two benefits, increase in maximum airflow and more control over it. I used these one all mine and would never go back to the stock base. I promise you won't be disappointed.
Kangertech Airflow Control Valve
This is where I got mine.
 

Alter

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It sounds like the insulator grommet on the head is getting squished is there is no airflow. Its a old kanger protank problem of just barely over tightening the head and it squishes the insulator, especially if its wet with juice. I do have a pic but photobucket is being a azz and won't let me upload. Your going to have to Youtube "protank 2 airflow fix" to better understand the insulator squish. The airflow adapter is a good fix since your not relying on the air to pass by the insulator and actually bypassing it. The clearer opaque insulator is more prone to squish than the older white insulators. My wife and I used protanks for almost 2 years with great results and now we have moved onto the subtanks inwhich are bigger and easier to use than the protanks. I do agree that the kanger airflow adapter is a game changer with the protank series attys.
 

DingerCPA

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+1 on all the AFC base suggestions. I've swapped all my PT2 bases for AFC, and I LOVE it.

I typically don't build quite that low on a PT2 head - not sure how much heat those insulators can tolerate. I think AlterUrEgo is on to a good idea. When you're tightening, don't "cram" them tight - finger-tight/snug is more than enough.

Keep us posted!
 

Stefan1997

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Jun 24, 2015
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It is possible yes, but it wouldn't make sense because it worked fine for days before it quit. I switched the base for a pt2 mini base and it works that way. And then I just experimented by putting the pt2 base on to the mini's tank and it doesn't work that way either. So even though the base appears fine, its not letting air flow through the holes on the 510 thread of the base. I even put the base onto a 510 converter you would use for a mini and then put it on the battery but that doesn't work either.
 
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edyle

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Hey guys, I've only had good experiences with the protank 2 and so it surprises me to run into any problems like this. The new protank 2 I've bought worked flawlessly for about two days with my 1.5 ohm coil and kbox mini, but now that I've changed the coil, there is absolutely no airflow. I switched back to the original coil and just replaced the cotton to see if the new coil was the problem, but it didn't work anymore either. Any help to figure out why my airflow is gone would be appreciated!
I started replacing things by the way and replaced the base with a protank mini base and it works now...but the whole reason I switched back to the protank 2 was for the bigger chamber to get more vapor with less burning. The problem obviously lies with the base, I just can't figure out what it's problem is.

I used to use protanks with miniprotank bases all the time; just had to add an extra silicone grommet on top the coil to seal off the top.
 
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Stefan1997

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Jun 24, 2015
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Well it works good I guess, I just thought it would burn my wic more because it did all the time with the protank mini. I think the small, slim shape of it was causing too much heat in there. It just can't handle what I like in a coil. The pt2 handles it better, even with the mini base.I'm built at 0.8 ohms right now and its working great. I've got some extra kanthal so I'm gonna push it to see how far i can go without it burning the wic.
I've never had to use the grommets to stop leaking by the way. It works better without them when I do it.
 

Grimwald

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As others have suggested, do, please, get the airflow control base...it really is a game changer.

The kbox mini does not have really deep airfow channels, so make sure those are not gunked up...and try not to crank the tank down extremely tight. Since the airflow has to get thru under the tank I would check all of those paths. The newer base alleviates these problems.
 
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