i don't know if that user's commentary was for humor's sake or from a genuine personal experience, but it wasn't due to noalox on the spring. in all honesty, if i remember correctly, that user had a different SS mod that we both own as well. remember initially this mod came with a loose-seated spring, and it was probably stretched out a bit to go from soft spring to medium spring if you catch my drift. but in any case, the hot pocket may have been due to a short caused by a bent or slightly dislodged spring touching the side of the mod. just a hypothesis here, but fairly certain it wasn't the noalox.
Noalox
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Granted, by the manufacturer's design Noalox isn't meant to be conductive, but with conductive zinc particles in suspension and Noalox's noted history of separating when left standing for long; plus, to borrow your own words from another post, "... when contacts are forced together via mechanical action, the zinc particles compress and provide a bridge between the contacts for conductivity"; I just don't feel it is safe to say that Noalox would NEVER be conductive and NEVER cause a short. The probability of a short is undoubtedly low (as long as the zinc remains in suspension), but the possibility (due to the zinc separating and/or compressing) is still there. So, if I err, at least it is toward the safe side.
that's not my post, but i responded similarly to it then as i'm doing here now. captain, if you like it and use it, great. and if you feel uneasy that you might bridge contacts and short the mod by applying a little too much here or there, or for whatever reason, that's fine by me too. i don't agree with it, and though i may have tried to change your mind i'm not mad that you haven't. my only concern here is with claims that it does what it doesn't do and that go against what the manufacturer even states. i think that's misinformation, but it's influential nonetheless. i think each situation is different, and you actually use it on an aluminum mod or aluminum contact points, but particularly for those who are thinking about maintenance accessories for a stainless steel device that may or may not also include a juice feeder or tank, there's better options to consider as all around anti-seizing/ galling lubricants, ones able to be used for the entire setup, if only they weren't struck by the false impression of aluminum oxide on ss or the power of suspended zinc particles to bridge contacts on their mods.
the best solution to solve this is to put a drop of noalox in a non contactive surface (wood for example) and put the 2 wires of a multimeter on that drop. If the 2 wires of the multimeter dont touch each other but they are both inside the noalox drop and the resistance that the multimeter will show is the same as its internal resistance then noalox is contactive.
If 2 surfaces are non contactive then noalox will not make them contactive. The only part on those surfaces that will be contactive will be only the noalox itself. So 2 bad contactive areas will not get improved with noalox even if it was super contactive.
If 2 surfaces are non contactive then noalox will not make them contactive. The only part on those surfaces that will be contactive will be only the noalox itself. So 2 bad contactive areas will not get improved with noalox even if it was super contactive.
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Bugg - I would agree that under normal conditions (where the zinc is held in suspension) that Noalox is non-conductive. But I would be less than honest if I stopped there, because under abnormal conditions (Noalox standing long and not properly stirred/shaken, etc.) seperation does occur. This is a fact as noted by capevette in this post and others elsewhere. So that part of the seperation that contains mostly zinc can and will be conductive. It could be an old can that was never mixed before use and now you are down to where you are using just the zinc separated sediment. Therefore if I ignored all the above and promulgated information that Noalox is never conductive and you don't have to worry about, wouldn't that be misinformation as well?
Also, the zinc plays a more of a role that just preventing oxidation in aluminum so far as promoting good ground continuity. I can put Noalox on the positive pole of a battery and on the positive pole of an adapter and current flows through it. How does it do this if there is not some compression of the zinc particles to bridge the contact?
All this aside, what anti-seizing/galling lubricants that promote good ground continuity do you have in mind when you say there are better options?
Also, the zinc plays a more of a role that just preventing oxidation in aluminum so far as promoting good ground continuity. I can put Noalox on the positive pole of a battery and on the positive pole of an adapter and current flows through it. How does it do this if there is not some compression of the zinc particles to bridge the contact?
All this aside, what anti-seizing/galling lubricants that promote good ground continuity do you have in mind when you say there are better options?
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galling is not something that appears only on steel parts Captain. Its something that happens when 2 same material threads meet each other. Same can happen with bronze to bronze, aluminium to aluminium etc. Aluminium is the material that can bring more problems with galling but all materials have the same issue.
It happens because the parts are made from the same material. Thats why when I was making the older GGs I prefered to put a brass part after an aluminium part.
It happens because the parts are made from the same material. Thats why when I was making the older GGs I prefered to put a brass part after an aluminium part.
You are right Imeo. Galled stainless steel parts are just more memorable than softer metals it seems, because they require so much more torque to seperate them. Those are the ones you remember the most.
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i've done this before, and for fun just did it again...no conductivity. didn't get an internal resistance reading on my probes until they touched inside the stuff.
noalox is not conductive, it helps promote good ground continuity with aluminum contacts. so that's the information to put forth.
i can bridge contact by using vaseline, though it works better with noalox because it's far less viscous. you're simply moving the stuff to the side and exposing enough of the metal contact necessary for conductivity and completion of a circuit. contact the manufacturer, they'll tell you what you don't want to believe. the zinc, with less than 20% in a bottles, already less conductive than brass or aluminum alloys and just barely more than nickel, is not doing work on its own in a suspended state, even when compressed. what it's doing is protecting aluminum oxide free areas from further oxidation, taking on that attack from the elements, so that the aluminum beneath can continue to make necessary contact. that's it. it's a really cool scientific feat but when it's all said and done that's it. it's also said that zinc cuts at the aluminum oxide, but that seems counter-intuitive to me based on the hardness of the materials.
So what anti-seizing/galling lubricants do you have in mind when you say there are better options?
like imeo and others i use just a bit of vaseline regularly, along with a cleaning and polishing routine for most of the mods i have and i recommend that as it's something everyone is likely to have and not need to go out and purchase. but if you want better than noalox in the sense that you want something to extend the temperature range by not being petroleum based, have the anti-seizing and anti-galling properties, but not comprised of ingredients that gunk up and create a great deal of grime in addition to being both ineffective on non-aluminum parts and potentially hazardous if they come in contact with juice, then i'd recommend something like loctite's food grade anti-seize lubricant or crc and other brand food grade silicone sprays. these are widely available, relatively inexpensive and better options overall, but there's bound to be plenty of others. i'm not selling this stuff, i'm just not sold on noalox. i've used a lot of crap out there and i'm just trying help someone else avoid unnecessary pitfalls through useful information and my own experience.
Hi all I just bought a provari mod and just today I got some Noalox Anti-Oxidant Joint Compound. Now my question is do I apply it to the atomizer threads or where the battery goes in threads a little confused? Thank You.
Thats an old thread cw. Dont use noalox, it doesnt make any difference on dirty threads or dirty metals. Its useless to my opinion and you cant clean it correctly, its a mess. Use autosol to clean your threads and some vaseline to make them smooth. Thats it.
I second that, I've moved away from Noalox as well... pain in the .... once it starts gunking up.
Vaseline is safe to use anywhere you need. You really don't need to use a alot, a little bit goes a long way. Clean the whole GGTS up and then apply vaseline on all threads to keep them in good shape.
You probably don't need anything to put on the threads of the atomizer. Is it not screwing in smoothly?
I agree Wigglr. Even though Vaseline is a neutral compound, I would not want it or anything else on the threads of the atty or the connector itself.
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