"non"-performance question

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jmur

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I was hoping some more experienced users could enlighten me here. I've been very (really VERY) happy with my Igo-L, has worked flawlessly, performed great and I've gotten pretty proficient at my builds. So I thought I'd take a look at dual coil setups. Wasn't sure if I would like it, so for now I just picked up a Nimbus clone. What I'm wondering about are the physical properties of the actual machined piece itself. I mean, what really is there to it other than two negative poles and one positive pole? And of course the battery connector. I'm asking because every coil I've built on it has my MVP2 reading it as "non". Shouldn't be a low ohm issue because it even returns this reading on a single coil. Am I missing something obvious here? Many thanks in advance...
 

jmur

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SuspectK I was wondering if that was the issue. Never had a pin problem before so never tried to adjust it. Fact that the Igo works fine on it would suggest that if it is a pin problem it lies with the Nimbus clone, right?

And gpjoe, I will check for this tomorrow, without a coil. Never thought of that.

Thank you both for replying and helping!
 

jmur

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My MVP2 does the same thing on my Igo W, but not on other attys occasionally.

I GENTLY push the pin up with a micro screwdriver and it works fine and even fires at .8 ohms.

Thanks rasta. But I thought the MVP2 wouldn't fire a sub ohm coil?
 

Tbev

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Neither of those attys have adjustable pins, I wouldn't recommend buying any Nimbus, Clone of real BC the cap is so tall it lends itself to an airy vape, you can run your igo top on the Nimbus and notice the vape will be a denser flavor, that's due to the reduced space inside the cap.

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suspectK

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dripdaze:12463620 said:
Wouldn't a real digital multimeter have made this exercise a whole lot simpler?

For some reason I assumed that was what they were checking it with...:rolleyes: I don't see how trying to get a reading without a coil on it with an apv ohm meter is going to do anything to help troubleshooting.
 

dripdaze

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For some reason I assumed that was what they were checking it with...:rolleyes: I don't see how trying to get a reading without a coil on it with an apv ohm meter is going to do anything to help troubleshooting.

Yeah, I see a lot of these posts where there is a large confusion factor due to flaky 510 connections and the way these bogus ohms checkers operate. IMNSHO these ohm checkers should only be bought after a proper multimeter has been used and understood.
 
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