noob looking to mod my first battery

[captainbrianbeard]

so im interested in doing a battery mod. I have a 510 and am looking to build something with a little more voltage to make dry burning easier and to just be able to say i did it. I have a soldering iron and am familiar with soldering electrical components and wiring diagrams. Ive also got a dead Blu battery which i believe i can use for the atomizer connection.

any recommendations for voltage and/or mods?

thanks

 

[rannox]

For a first mod to get you into the modding world, I would recommend the nicostick "http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/18409-how-build-nicostick.html".

Its simple, straight forward and cheap.

 

[captainbrianbeard]

so i got my aa batt case and a push button switch from radio shack. should i just google a protected 3.7v 14500 lithium battery and just get one from any where or are there specific brands and websites that are better than others?

 

[captainbrianbeard]

i also have an old dead auto Blu battery im assuming will work for my atty connector. any tips on taking the thing apart?

 

[rannox]

AW are some of the best batts you can find, but Ultrafire and Trustfire are usually fine as well. Just make sure they are protected.

To take the connector out, I would say just use a mini pipe cutter. Then maybe a torch to loosen up the glu and take it out (dont torch it with the battery still inside).

You can get everything you need from Welcome to MadVapes LLC Including connectors and switches.

 

[captainbrianbeard]

would it matter when soldering the atty connector that the Blu battery has reverse polarity than the 510 system?

 

[rannox]

doesnt matter how you wire the connector, as long as current is going through the atty is all that matters.

 

[captainbrianbeard]

will these switches work?

 

[xLowEndx]

will these switches work?

I think it would. Even though the amperage is low it should easily hold up at 6 volts. Verification?

Low

 

[AttyPops]

I've used em. They will give up the ghost eventually, but so do all buttons. You'd think that a button with that wattage rating would handle it, but even 5v / 2a ish is hard on buttons. I'd say use em for a 1st mod unless:

1) You need to order from somewhere anyway, like Welcome to MadVapes LLC, and just pick up a couple of atty connectors, batteries, and a button. Maybe LED too.
2) If you do order, and wish to try 5 volts, then you need a 3xAA box and 2 batteries (read 4 batts, so 1 set can charge while the other is in use) and a regulator.
3) There are many regulators, including switching regulators, that are great for 5v and have built-in MOSFET functionality (inhibit or enable pins) that will allow you to use a small, low amp button. MV even sells some LDO ones, linear last I looked, but still good for a mod. See this sub-forum (modders) for MOSFET info.

So basically, you end up deciding on

A) 3.7 volt "simple" mod with high-amp through the switch.
B) 5.0 volt regulated mod, low amp small button, slightly more complex
C) Dual 3.7v (6-8 ish volt) unregulated mod - not recommended or commented upon further here

The connector should be wired by you, so it doesn't matter if it was a blu or not... you set the polarity based on how you wire it. I suggest making the outer shell the ground, the inner pin the positive.

You'll need a charger for the batteries too.

Anything more complicated than the NicoStick and you'll want a multi-meter too.

Let us know how it goes. Good Luck!

 

[captainbrianbeard]

cool thanks guys!! yea i saw the smaller switches and thought they would be easier to mount in the AA box. when my batterys come in ill start building and continue posting 8]

 

[captainbrianbeard]

how hard would it be to wire in an LED to the top of the nikostik by the button switch? not that its necessary but it would be cool to have a light indicator that the pv is getting power and is working you know

 

[captainbrianbeard]

is a 900 mAh 14500 the biggest that will work for this setup? or is there any other 3.7v protected batts that will fit with higher mAh?

 

[addisdaddy07]

how hard would it be to wire in an LED to the top of the nikostik by the button switch? not that its necessary but it would be cool to have a light indicator that the pv is getting power and is working you know

Very easy, power>resistor>led>ground. Before the switch if you want to know that is on, after the switch if you want to know when your atty should be firing. of course that depends on wiring your switch to the positive side.

 

[AttyPops]

cool thanks guys!! yea i saw the smaller switches and thought they would be easier to mount in the AA box. when my batterys come in ill start building and continue posting 8]

Yeah cool! Don't forget that you need a MOSFET/regulator for the small switch

 

[captainbrianbeard]

MOSFET/regulator? is that for the smaller switch? is one necesary if i use a larger switch like niko?

 

[captainbrianbeard]

so i had the wrong aa battery box. the one from the radio shack shelf doesnt have a master on/off switch. which can prove to be usefull so my button doesnt turn on in my pocket. ordered one online and a 2 pack of protected 14500 3.7v batts and a charger. im excited. its gonna be mailbox stalking for me the next few days

 

[Java_Az]

MOSFET/regulator? is that for the smaller switch? is one necesary if i use a larger switch like niko?

As long as the switch is rated @ 2 amps you dont need a mosfet. 3 amp switch or higher would be more ideal.

 

[captainbrianbeard]

hrmm... yea sounds simpler to get a different switch rated at a higher amp. LEDs sound cool too. thinking a green to let me know the systems on and a red to let me know when the attys firing. we'll see about it tho just a thought. when looking at LEDs i would find one at radioshack rated at 2-3 amps too right?

 

[AttyPops]

hrmm... yea sounds simpler to get a different switch rated at a higher amp. LEDs sound cool too. thinking a green to let me know the systems on and a red to let me know when the attys firing. we'll see about it tho just a thought. when looking at LEDs i would find one at radioshack rated at 2-3 amps too right?

It is easier... that's how most start. Yeah... ah.... you need resistors for the LEDs. And your talking about a bi-color LED... so you may want 2 resistors (one on each input) or you may be able to get away with one on the output... we'll have to find out what you get and calc the necessary current so you don't fry the LED. HINT: take two...they're small... lol. Have a backup in case ya fry one... you'll use the other one on something else later. You'll need some resistors too. Or just keep it simple and get a small 3 mm LED of one color (plus resistor).