So why do vapors like having a variety of ohms to choose from when they have a vv and or vw mod? Doesn't raising/lowering the voltage or wattage make having a variety of ohms unnecessary? I'm so confused.
Noobie question regarding ohms, vv/vw
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Personal preference and vape quality. I find my protanks work best with 1.6-1.8 ohms at 3.4-3.8 volts. Anything above 2.0ohms, and the flavor starts fade out. Also, lower ohms means less power from the battery, so it lasts longer.
So flavor fades even when adjusting v/w? I didn't make the connection that ohms effect battery life; thanks. I use to think ohms affected how easy/difficult it was to inhale until I started seeing stuff about the nautilus n it's like.
Ohms don't affect the draw, that's an airflow thing. Think of ohms as a power filter that regulates how much power goes to your tank. With less ohms, you need less power to get the same wattage, thus longer battery life. I haven't quite figured out why the flavor fades, it may have to do with the size or shape of the coils I build.
So we can try different juice and juice delivery mechanisms to discover what we like best. A lot goes into producing vapor, there are many variables that affect the amount and qualities of the vapor such as flavor, cool versus warm. The coils heat the liquid so it will vaporize. Assuming plenty of juice delivery to the coils it is a matter of surface area of heating elements(s) and viscosity of juice. There are many juices with varying amounts of pg and vg among others which changes the viscosity. The draw delivery affects the vapor before it hits your mouth. A long draw delivery can cool the vapor where a top coil and short drip tip can provide a warm delivery. Viscosity also affects the juice delivery to the coils and different wick materials make a difference, mesh versus silica, cotton, steel rope and combinations there of all make differences. In essence it can turn into a hobby very quickly. But if you have something that works and your pleased with it then stick with it and don't worry about ohms and such. 99% of the battle is getting past regular cigarettes and onto vaping, the other 1% is finding perfection.
Ooops! I thought lower ohms meant less resistance which would mean you would need more power wouldn't it? I'm using 10 watts to ignite my 2.0ohm carto and it's always worked fine. But, I haven't really monitored battery.
After doing a fair amount of rebuilding, I've realized coil building IS an art, with a little bit of science thrown in. Ex: 5+5=10, so does 5x2, or 13-3. If coil building were pure science, it wouldn't matter how you achieve your wattage, but it does. A 2 ohm coil at 5.477 volts gives you 15 watts of power. A 0.5 ohm coil at 2.739 volts gives you the same 15 watts of power, but they do not produce the same vapor, as the coils will be of different physical sizes and will heat up at different rates. Imagine wattage in an atty as horsepower in an engine, and ohms of the coil as the weight of the vehicle. If you put a 400hp engine in a honda civic (sub-ohm coil), its going to be a freakin monster, if you put the same 400hp motor into a semi-truck (high-ohm coil) its not going to be the same. Am I making any sense?
Watts = Volts*Volts/Resistance
Less resistance means you need less power.
4 Volts with 2.2ohms = 7.27 watts
4 Volts with 1.5ohms = 10.66 watts
Maintaining the same voltage and lowering resistance means more current and yes more power V=I X R.
P=voltage X current = current squared X resistance = voltage squared / resistance. Maintain power the same then no, lower ohms requires lower voltage.
Exactly, 1.5 ohms is less resistance than 2.2 and 10.66 is more power than 7.27 so less resistance means more power at same voltage. For same power and lower resistance, the voltage must be lowered.
4 Volts with 2.2ohms = 7.27 watts
3.3 Volts with 1.5ohms = 7.27 watts
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Here's a pretty good animation of Ohm's Law. As you change voltage or resistance, you can see what happens to amperage.
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Sent from the north 40 using a messenger cow
power is power there shouldnt be a diffenece in vape from resistance if you are vaping at the same end wattage. I notice a big difference in vape quality with micro coils using different gauges. I think there is a sweet spot in how many wraps you use relative to the wicks ability to deliver juice. As someone else stated there is a bit of art to it.
Various effects can be seen more clearly, if taken to extremes.
Definitions---
Current: In wire, it's the flow of electrons. Ampere is it's unit of measure.
Voltage: Is Electromotive Force, and can be considered to be electrical pressure. Volt is it's unit of measure.
Resistance: Is the quality of a material which resists the flow of current. Ohm is it's unit of measure.
Power: Is the amount of energy consumed per unit of time. Watt is the unit of measure for electrical power.
First consider what is happening when the coil causes vaporization of the juice. The current flow through the coil causes heat, which dissipates energy, causing it to glow a reddish color. Thus the energy to perform this is drained from the battery, and converted into heat.
The more power dissipated by the coil, the hotter the temperature it will attain. It could go from a dull red to bright yellow or so (until the coil would melt, at some point).
For a given resistance of a wire coil, a certain voltage will "push" an exact amount of current through it. In this case, the greater the voltage, the greater the current flow that will be "pushed" through that particular coil.
It's kind of like steady water pressure, with the water flow being controlled by a faucet which is opened a certain amount. The more you open the faucet, the less resistance there is to the water flow.
So, with a coil, if you increase the Voltage (pressure), it will increase the Amperage (flow), and result in more Wattage (energy) being radiated as heat (and thus battery energy consumed).
If you use a coil of lower resistance, that will allow more current (flow), for the same amount of voltage (pressure), and the coil will get hotter than the previous one. This will radiate more heat energy, and thus is a higher Wattage, with more drain on the battery life.
So, the overall picture here is that a higher Wattage translates to higher heat, for any given coil.
Now here is the main point about all this: In addition to Wattage, there is a different effect determined by coil size, in wire diameter and coil diameter and number of turns. All that amounts to how much (hot) surface area of the coil wire comes in contact with the juice.
Imagine a teeny tiny coil that you were operating at 15 Watts. It would get a tiny area of your wick very, very hot. This would result in not much vapor, and what there was would likely have a burned taste.
Now think of a coil that covered your entire wick area, and heated it all at once. That could make a large cloud, indeed. But the same 15 Watts might not be enough to get it hot, if your wicking material was really large.
So if you had a coil of a certain winding diameter, that was 5 millimeters long, operating at 6 Watts, you would get a certain amount of vapor. If you wanted to double the length of the coil, you would need to double the wattage, in order to get your same 6 Watts per 5 mm of coil length, and vaporize twice the amount of juice.
Any way you look at it, the bigger the cloud, the more battery drain.
And for a set battery voltage, if you use a coil of lower resistance, the coil will get hotter (and possibly give a burned taste) and drain your battery faster.
Further, a tighter wound coil will produce higher temperature, but in a smaller area of wick. Depending on the resistance of the coil wire, and the voltage applied to it, this might produce more vapor than spaced coil turns, or it might produce a burned taste with less vapor.
Definitions---
Current: In wire, it's the flow of electrons. Ampere is it's unit of measure.
Voltage: Is Electromotive Force, and can be considered to be electrical pressure. Volt is it's unit of measure.
Resistance: Is the quality of a material which resists the flow of current. Ohm is it's unit of measure.
Power: Is the amount of energy consumed per unit of time. Watt is the unit of measure for electrical power.
First consider what is happening when the coil causes vaporization of the juice. The current flow through the coil causes heat, which dissipates energy, causing it to glow a reddish color. Thus the energy to perform this is drained from the battery, and converted into heat.
The more power dissipated by the coil, the hotter the temperature it will attain. It could go from a dull red to bright yellow or so (until the coil would melt, at some point).
For a given resistance of a wire coil, a certain voltage will "push" an exact amount of current through it. In this case, the greater the voltage, the greater the current flow that will be "pushed" through that particular coil.
It's kind of like steady water pressure, with the water flow being controlled by a faucet which is opened a certain amount. The more you open the faucet, the less resistance there is to the water flow.
So, with a coil, if you increase the Voltage (pressure), it will increase the Amperage (flow), and result in more Wattage (energy) being radiated as heat (and thus battery energy consumed).
If you use a coil of lower resistance, that will allow more current (flow), for the same amount of voltage (pressure), and the coil will get hotter than the previous one. This will radiate more heat energy, and thus is a higher Wattage, with more drain on the battery life.
So, the overall picture here is that a higher Wattage translates to higher heat, for any given coil.
Now here is the main point about all this: In addition to Wattage, there is a different effect determined by coil size, in wire diameter and coil diameter and number of turns. All that amounts to how much (hot) surface area of the coil wire comes in contact with the juice.
Imagine a teeny tiny coil that you were operating at 15 Watts. It would get a tiny area of your wick very, very hot. This would result in not much vapor, and what there was would likely have a burned taste.
Now think of a coil that covered your entire wick area, and heated it all at once. That could make a large cloud, indeed. But the same 15 Watts might not be enough to get it hot, if your wicking material was really large.
So if you had a coil of a certain winding diameter, that was 5 millimeters long, operating at 6 Watts, you would get a certain amount of vapor. If you wanted to double the length of the coil, you would need to double the wattage, in order to get your same 6 Watts per 5 mm of coil length, and vaporize twice the amount of juice.
Any way you look at it, the bigger the cloud, the more battery drain.
And for a set battery voltage, if you use a coil of lower resistance, the coil will get hotter (and possibly give a burned taste) and drain your battery faster.
Further, a tighter wound coil will produce higher temperature, but in a smaller area of wick. Depending on the resistance of the coil wire, and the voltage applied to it, this might produce more vapor than spaced coil turns, or it might produce a burned taste with less vapor.
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Here you go:
Disclaimer: This is the most simplistic explanation and is addressed to new vapers mostly or vapers who are happy within the recommended "just right" power zone (4.5-8 watts). If you are using dual coil atomizers or are interested in high wattage vaping, it's a different conversation altogether.
You will also have to understand the concept of amp limits and how it applies to high power vaping. In short, dual coil atties consist of two coils configured in parallel, which means that a 2.1Ω atty is really two 4.2Ω coils--so calculate your wattage based on the 4.2Ω number--not 2.1Ω--roughly. To make it simpler--dual coil atties require more wattage than singles, but not quite twice as much. They produce more vapor due to increased surface. When in doubt--start low and adjust up as needed.
Ohm's Law as it pertains to vaping is really not that complicated--and it's very useful when you want to know what you're doing.
Voltage and wattage are often misunderstood by new vapers. Wattage is the power (heat, sweet spot) that your PV (battery and atomizer) generates. Wattage = Voltage (of your battery) squared divided by Resistance (Ω) of your atomizer [P=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/R]. If you're not good at math, don't worry, use this easy calculator:
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
Of course, if you own a VW (variable wattage) device, you don't really need this calculator because your device will do the math for you.
The wattage you want, especially at the beginning of your vaping career, should be somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 Watts. Anything lower than 4.5 watts may not vaporize your juice properly and will not produce enough warmth and vapor. Anything above 8.5 watts increases the risk of burning the filler in your cartomizers (if you're using them) and even some juices, especially the delicate ones.
There are, of course, other variables, like eliquid and JDD (juice delivery devices) that you're using on your batteries. Seven watts on a filler type cartomizer may feel different than the same 7 watts on a fillerless clearomizer or a dripping atomizer. The same is true for different eliquids; tobaccos, chocolate and coffees generally require more wattage (heat), while fruit and other delicate flavors do better with less heat. Everyone's sweet spot is different--those are just very general guidelines.
Experiment and you'll find your own bliss in no time!
The chart below is a good guide to safe vaping, even though some think it's a bit conservative.
Disclaimer: This is the most simplistic explanation and is addressed to new vapers mostly or vapers who are happy within the recommended "just right" power zone (4.5-8 watts). If you are using dual coil atomizers or are interested in high wattage vaping, it's a different conversation altogether.
You will also have to understand the concept of amp limits and how it applies to high power vaping. In short, dual coil atties consist of two coils configured in parallel, which means that a 2.1Ω atty is really two 4.2Ω coils--so calculate your wattage based on the 4.2Ω number--not 2.1Ω--roughly. To make it simpler--dual coil atties require more wattage than singles, but not quite twice as much. They produce more vapor due to increased surface. When in doubt--start low and adjust up as needed. Ohm's Law as it pertains to vaping is really not that complicated--and it's very useful when you want to know what you're doing.
Voltage and wattage are often misunderstood by new vapers. Wattage is the power (heat, sweet spot) that your PV (battery and atomizer) generates. Wattage = Voltage (of your battery) squared divided by Resistance (Ω) of your atomizer [P=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/R]. If you're not good at math, don't worry, use this easy calculator:
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
Of course, if you own a VW (variable wattage) device, you don't really need this calculator because your device will do the math for you.
The wattage you want, especially at the beginning of your vaping career, should be somewhere between 4.5 and 8.5 Watts. Anything lower than 4.5 watts may not vaporize your juice properly and will not produce enough warmth and vapor. Anything above 8.5 watts increases the risk of burning the filler in your cartomizers (if you're using them) and even some juices, especially the delicate ones.
There are, of course, other variables, like eliquid and JDD (juice delivery devices) that you're using on your batteries. Seven watts on a filler type cartomizer may feel different than the same 7 watts on a fillerless clearomizer or a dripping atomizer. The same is true for different eliquids; tobaccos, chocolate and coffees generally require more wattage (heat), while fruit and other delicate flavors do better with less heat. Everyone's sweet spot is different--those are just very general guidelines.
Experiment and you'll find your own bliss in no time!
The chart below is a good guide to safe vaping, even though some think it's a bit conservative.
For calculation purposes, the basic batteries, like the eGo types, are 3.7 Volts.
The chargers put out 4.2 Volts. A freshly charged battery can measure 4.0 Volts, then degrade downward as you use it, until it needs charging again. This would be the regular batteries, not the ones with the added electronics which allow them to be variable.
The chargers put out 4.2 Volts. A freshly charged battery can measure 4.0 Volts, then degrade downward as you use it, until it needs charging again. This would be the regular batteries, not the ones with the added electronics which allow them to be variable.
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Personal preference. I actully prefer 2.0-2.2Ω coils--they are more versatile and somehow smoother than the very low ohm ones. YMMV, of course. Anyway, it's all about wattage.
Actually, regular Joyetech eGos are 3.3-3.4v--regulated; there is no voltage sag at all.
There are unregulated eGo-class batteries, though, and they come off the charger at 4.2v, drop quickly to 3.7v and then cut off at 3.2v or so.
That explains the low resistance coils, like 1.8 ohms or less, for relatively generic, or basic, clearomizers. My eGo style batteries aren't by Joytech, so they measure as I stated.
The table would be of no use without knowing the voltage characteristics of these batteries, so thanks.
Hi, i dont have a vv battery, just standard evod 900's. I found a cheap source of wicks, but they only had 1.6 ohms; will these still work ok? Also, im a heavy vaper and im finding my wicks are lasting quite a bit longer than seven days (some have been going for almost a month with cleaning-is this normal?
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