Not happy with Vivi Nova, what to try next?

[Gummy Bare]

Throwing your juice bottle in hot water will turn it darker, so will sleeping it for a long time. I wondering if the juice turning dark is just from it getting hot from the coil firing all the time. I know if I chain vape my clearo will get hot/warm to the touch. juice will turn darker from time to time.... more in my vision stardust clearos then my nova.

 

[nepatitan]

I keep re wicking in cotton but burn up the cotton within a day or 2 and not getting dry hits and not dry burning. Any idea?
Using 100% cotton #4 I think and wrapping about 5 wraps, about 2 ohms is my average.

Are the stock wicks on the Nova cotton or silica? I know they're the same design as the ones on the V3 stardusts. I had the same issue until I rewicked using cotton, now it works really well.

 

[WorksForMe]

Throwing your juice bottle in hot water will turn it darker, so will sleeping it for a long time. I wondering if the juice turning dark is just from it getting hot from the coil firing all the time. I know if I chain vape my clearo will get hot/warm to the touch. Juice will turn darker from time to time.... more in my vision stardust clearos then my nova.

I don’t remember seeing anyone else talk about juice turning dark with the T3. Maybe it has something to do with my juice. I probably notice it more because it starts really clear. When I start with a new coil, I don’t have the problem at all. Then after about a week, the juice starts picking up some color and gets worse over time. This really isn’t a big deal until I have to start throwing away juice after about a month. I dry burn once a week and replace the “flavor” wicks.

J.R.

 

[mrelwood]

I keep re wicking in cotton but burn up the cotton within a day or 2 and not getting dry hits and not dry burning. Any idea?

Unfortunately, that is what happens with cotton. You can try to wrap the coil more loosely on the cotton, or lower your voltage (ie wattage), or just keep replacing the cotton.

A thin oxidized SS mesh tube between the coil and the cotton will make the cotton last a longer, and it will also taste cleaner. But it's a bit more advanced tweak to do.

 

[JD1]

I keep re wicking in cotton but burn up the cotton within a day or 2 and not getting dry hits and not dry burning. Any idea?
Using 100% cotton #4 I think and wrapping about 5 wraps, about 2 ohms is my average.

Check to make sure you're not getting the coil too tight or the wick too big. Cotton swells quite a bit. I made a big cotton wick for my redux and it didn't work well at all. I'm now using cheese cloth and making two small wicks and using a paper clip to support them while wrapping. The two wicks sort of stack in the narrow slots of the redux head without choking.

Of course I still get the build up from my juices. I love vanilla and caramel and put them in almost everything but, evidently, they both have quite a few impurities that blacken the coil pretty quick. I can usually go a couple of weeks and, so far, I'm just rebuilding but I'm thinking about trying a wash with hot water to see how much that will clean them up.

You might pick up some ideas to try from this thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...355501-different-cottons-different-wicks.html

 

[DrApex]

I seem to have the best luck with an Artemus tank with dual Coil cartos.

The holes and atomizer is on the bottom, so no dry hits ever.

The specific ones I use have 3 Prepunched holes in them. It can be a tiny bit annoying to fill at first, but I bought a cheap tank filling tool and it's now easy, taking less than a minute.

There are Pyrex glass tanks, if you are worried about certain juices (citrus, cinnamon, etc) damaging the tank. The Pyrex tanks are very durable and tough.

Watch this guy throw one against a garage door and land on concrete. Freaking tough stuff:

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=woYWGm2F2TY&desktop_uri=/watch?v=woYWGm2F2TY
Typed on my mobile. Please excuse typos.

 

[BuGlen]

I would say, yes, try the Kanger T2 and T3 if you're not satisfied with the VVN. I have the Vision ViVi Nova, Vision 2.0, Kanger T2 & T3, and I tend to prefer the Kangers over the Visions for flavor. The T2 is a top coil design which works best for me because I like the warmer vapor and don't mind the tipping required to keep the coils wet. The T3 is a bottom coil design that works very well (no tipping required), but the vaper is a bit cooler. I've found both to provide good flavor and performance.

 

[Gummy Bare]

Yea, the T3 is definatly on my list of things to order next time I get some vapemail. I just hope they don't leak like all the reviews I'm seeing.

 

[Susaz]

I don’t remember seeing anyone else talk about juice turning dark with the T3. Maybe it has something to do with my juice. I probably notice it more because it starts really clear. When I start with a new coil, I don’t have the problem at all. Then after about a week, the juice starts picking up some color and gets worse over time. This really isn’t a big deal until I have to start throwing away juice after about a month. I dry burn once a week and replace the “flavor” wicks.

J.R.

I think that darkening liquid has more to do with parts oxidation. I don't think they're made of stainless steel. My CE3 3ml are turning juices dark nowadays, and I've had them in circulation since August/September. None have popped yet. I just throw the juice and start over, and don't keep them filled more than a week (I always keep double of my vaping daily needs so I don't get anxious over it)

 

[Thompson]

Given all these clearomizers are, er, clear then I could see light causing some change in the juice too.

Maybe not substantial amounts but it has to factor in to a degree.

 

[myyrkezaan]

There are problems people have because of the juices they are using, the heads or they received a knock off and didn't know it (some knock offs are actually better); the different ohm heads have different style wicks which add a variable to it. But there is nothing that beats the ease and convenience of screw cap off, pour in liquid, screw cap on.

I've had the gurgling with VVN and it is because the silicon gasket was worn out and slips into the cap hole; you can either turn it upside down (do the same for the metal cap in it) or replace it with one you saved from a blown head. You can wash, dry burn and reuse the heads; extra life and savings.

Cartos didn't always taste good to me; lots of flooding; lots of leaking; lots of spilling; lots of dry hits; lots of wasted time and money. The CE2 style carto was a bit better, but it leaked with some liquids and dry with others.

As far as the difference of VVN to other clearomizers, they really all seem to work about the same. You get some that don't work quite as well as the others even within a given type.

It also gives you the added advantage of learning how to rebuild the coils which I will be doing before I foray into a true RBA.

Currently have: 2 VVN 3.5ml, 2 MVVN, 2 CE5 and 5ML eGo CC and they work well and something called 'aClear Variable Clearomizer' 3.5ml tank which I like better than the VVN 3.5ml. Also using 2 eGo type Bs which are working well too.

Good luck in finding something that works with your juices and vape style.

 

[Thompson]

I only had 5 total heads for the VVN, they all metered far from the stamped Ω. Annoying little buggers.

If you need a spare small gasket for the VVN (the one that hides in the drip tip) you can find them buried in the stem of CE4s. Found that out the other day when I tore one down for fun.

 

[myyrkezaan]

Ordered a 2.4Ω 5 pack from unnamed company: lowest was 2.8, highest was 3.3; all stamped with 2.4. Luckily my Vamo came to the rescue .