Not supposed to dry-fire Ti coils but its healthier than kanthal?????

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Vaep

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I was told you aren't supposed to dry-fire Titanium wire because it causes it to oxidize, and when its oxidized, the Ti becomes toxic and harmful to the lungs....

But if you don't dry burn any wire, all the extra crap on the exterior of the coil stays on the wire and eventually goes into your lungs when you vape. (Try dry-firing a Ti coil and see just how much crap comes off of it)

Also I noticed, I tried to dry-fire a bit and there was major hot-spots throughout the coil, and they were a bit more difficult to work out when compared to kanthal coils. Am I supposed to use it with the hotspots? It seems a bit inefficient to me unless im not understanding something..

Even if im supposed to use Ti and all its hotspots, how do I know its not going to oxidize and become toxic? At what point will the Ti coil be considered "oxidized"??

The whole titanium thing sounded really nice to me when I read that its not harmful to the body, supposedly more efficient and flavorful than ni200, and healthier to vape on than kanthal. But now im starting to question the whole idea...What if titanium is only healthy for the body when there is NO heat/voltage involved???.....plus it tasted really nasty when I tried to vape after dry burning the Ti..I definitely had weird pains in my lungs after...

Can anyone fill me in on Ti coils? Should I just switch to ni200?
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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I think if the wire began to melt and you inhaled the fumes then it would be dangerous otherwise i think its okay unless anyone else knows better.

You can use Ti oxidized or unoxidized but if the later then you need to keep the wick tightish so as not to produce any hotspots from gaps between wick and wire which will oxidise the wire as you vape it and will probably be nasty and maybe harmful but im unsure.

i've vaped it both way's no problemo :)
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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My advice is if your having doubts then Stray way away....

People use Ti on a TC Mod so as not to go into the danger zone or melting point, i have some 21g Ti that i have used very well on a Mechanical Mod without the wire even showing signs of oxidization (i even used the wire for a week without it showing anything before i finally got bored and built something dif) it was an okay vape, nothing astonishing but maybe for people vaping at lower wattage with thinner Ti there may be more of a gain to have been made from it.

I recently bought an RTA to vape on whilst bumming about on the ps4 and it came with some shiny coils pre-wicked, anyway after about a week of use i decided to change the coils and even though these coils were constantly sat snug around juice they had oxidized pretty badly, what i'm trying to get at here is that there are x amount of people vaping off these coils that are oxidizing as they are vaping them, surely that is harmful cus as we all know when you glow a coil to oxidize it it will give off fumes.

There is a Thread on here that i visited a while back i don't quite remember the name, i think it was 'Dont oxidize your wire' or similar, well anyway the idea is to make your coils without heating the wire at all , make spaced wraps so you have no chance for hotspots and then wick the coils very snug, maybe a tad more snug than you normally would, paying more attention to where the wick exits the coil ends as this is where it will sag and fall away from the wraps above.
But yeah
G'luck:)
 
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Sgt. Pepper

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I was told you aren't supposed to dry-fire Titanium wire because it causes it to oxidize, and when its oxidized, the Ti becomes toxic and harmful to the lungs....

But if you don't dry burn any wire, all the extra crap on the exterior of the coil stays on the wire and eventually goes into your lungs when you vape. (Try dry-firing a Ti coil and see just how much crap comes off of it)

Also I noticed, I tried to dry-fire a bit and there was major hot-spots throughout the coil, and they were a bit more difficult to work out when compared to kanthal coils. Am I supposed to use it with the hotspots? It seems a bit inefficient to me unless im not understanding something..

Even if im supposed to use Ti and all its hotspots, how do I know its not going to oxidize and become toxic? At what point will the Ti coil be considered "oxidized"??

The whole titanium thing sounded really nice to me when I read that its not harmful to the body, supposedly more efficient and flavorful than ni200, and healthier to vape on than kanthal. But now im starting to question the whole idea...What if titanium is only healthy for the body when there is NO heat/voltage involved???.....plus it tasted really nasty when I tried to vape after dry burning the Ti..I definitely had weird pains in my lungs after...

Can anyone fill me in on Ti coils? Should I just switch to ni200?

If you are not using a temperature controlled mod, STOP. Using nickel or ti is for advanced users that have taken the time to understand the product they are using.
 

jpargana

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I dont believe that even though the wire is touching the wick at all times you wont inhale the fumes from an un-dry-fired coil.... Its gonna burn no matter what...even if its slowly burning off, youre still inhaling it all...

If titanium is toxic when inhaled, I want to stray far from it....


IMO, high temperatures only develop when there's no liquid to cool the coil, taking away all that energy to vaporize.

On a dripper, I do not see the coil glowing red when there's liquid in it. It's only without the moist cotton that it can dry-burned.

Just like having a pot of water on the stove. As long as there's water in there, it will stay at 100 degrees. Let all water evaporate and yes, then you will have a burned/melted pot, and probably a lot of nasty stuff coming from there. But that stuff is being created because that pot reached temperatures way beyond what they were supposed to be.

Just my 2 cents :)
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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IMO, high temperatures only develop when there's no liquid to cool the coil, taking away all that energy to vaporize.

On a dripper, I do not see the coil glowing red when there's liquid in it. It's only without the moist cotton that it can dry-burned.

Just like having a pot of water on the stove. As long as there's water in there, it will stay at 100 degrees. Let all water evaporate and yes, then you will have a burned/melted pot, and probably a lot of nasty stuff coming from there. But that stuff is being created because that pot reached temperatures way beyond what they were supposed to be.

Just my 2 cents :)


And this is the very reason why my non contact unoxidized 21g Ti coil's still looked the same grey colour after a week's use as the new stuff on the the spool :)
Thankyou
 

mcclintock

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    If you are not using a temperature controlled mod, STOP. Using nickel or ti is for advanced users that have taken the time to understand the product they are using.

    Actually, this thread is relevant to a question regarding that. A nickel or titanium coil driven by a constant voltage DOES have some temperature controlling effect. It's only if you drive it with a true, constantly updated, constant power source that it has no temperature regulation. The down side is that nickel would work far better, but its extremely low resistance requires either an overkill sized mod or a TC mod anyway. Titanium could produce resistances usable even on a mech. The power reduction between cold and hot is only about 40% but could still be a tremendous aid to a marginally stable system such as a vape device. It would be little use with dry cotton, of course. At the moment I'm still in the chickened-out stage of actually trying this, though. (Don't blame me if you do and have problems!)

    While contact coils aren't normally used for TC and never with nickel (and the OP doesn't seem to know that), the oxide question could still be relevant, because thicker titanium oxide would allow contact.
     

    Sgt. Pepper

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    Actually, this thread is relevant to a question regarding that. A nickel or titanium coil driven by a constant voltage DOES have some temperature controlling effect. It's only if you drive it with a true, constantly updated, constant power source that it has no temperature regulation. The down side is that nickel would work far better, but its extremely low resistance requires either an overkill sized mod or a TC mod anyway. Titanium could produce resistances usable even on a mech. The power reduction between cold and hot is only about 40% but could still be a tremendous aid to a marginally stable system such as a vape device. It would be little use with dry cotton, of course. At the moment I'm still in the chickened-out stage of actually trying this, though. (Don't blame me if you do and have problems!)

    While contact coils aren't normally used for TC and never with nickel (and the OP doesn't seem to know that), the oxide question could still be relevant, because thicker titanium oxide would allow contact.

    My comment still stands no matter how you wish to parse it. The OP appears to be inexperienced in dealing with nickel or ti and should stay away from it until he has educated himself. This is how people hurt and blow themselves up.:)
     
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    Vaep

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    IMO, high temperatures only develop when there's no liquid to cool the coil, taking away all that energy to vaporize.

    On a dripper, I do not see the coil glowing red when there's liquid in it. It's only without the moist cotton that it can dry-burned.

    Just like having a pot of water on the stove. As long as there's water in there, it will stay at 100 degrees. Let all water evaporate and yes, then you will have a burned/melted pot, and probably a lot of nasty stuff coming from there. But that stuff is being created because that pot reached temperatures way beyond what they were supposed to be.

    Just my 2 cents :)

    I feel like the coil would still be burning the nasty stuff even though it's not turning it red... I could be wrong though..

    My comment still stands no matter how you wish to parse it. The OP appears to be inexperienced in dealing with nickel or ti and should stay away from it until he has educated himself. This is how people hurt and blow themselves up.:)

    Ti and ni200 coils are under alot of debate right now and is also the reason why I made this post...to attempt to get to the bottom of it. Im an experienced vaper, but not a scientist.. And yes, im using a TC mod. I should have stated that in the beginning... Actually, Ti wire doesnt seem to work with the iStick 40watt in TC mode and so I havent done any real tests.. I did try the Ti coil on regular mode after dry burning the coil, and it was enough for me to question its legitimacy and start a thread about it..

    While contact coils aren't normally used for TC and never with nickel (and the OP doesn't seem to know that), the oxide question could still be relevant, because thicker titanium oxide would allow contact.

    Yeah, I didnt know microcoils weren't recommended for Ti wire. Though, how does it make a significant difference? Both micro and standard coils heat up to very high temps.

    ---

    I could be turned off by Ti wire because of the nasty taste I got... But then I wonder if it just tastes weird because im so used to kanthal... I honestly did have some pains after using Ti wire though.. It was a 7/8 wrap of 26gauge around 3/32 drill bit.. dual microcoils.. 0.2ohms, vaping at 35ish watts...cotton wick.
     
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    mcclintock

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    Contact can fake out the TC if it shorts. But more an issue with nickel because Ti does always have an oxide layer. You would have to turn the temperature way down with Ti when using a device set up for nickel. See if that works with iStick because it would be relevant to my interests.

    94gc40, grisly analogy, at first I thought wait I thought cigs were the gun, but if you mean dry hits or not, yeah maybe! The extra "stability" I was talking about or concerns over metal effects are small compared to a dry hit on a dripper, which only true TC can eliminate. (Sgt. Pepper: didn't see starting a new thread, same title, slightly different question.)
     
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