Ody v1 leaking

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jeromeit

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Hi guys,

So I finally tried out my ody v1 on the ggts base and its leaking like no tomorrow, I dont know what to do.. I filled assembled the unit and filled it up with water and tried to find the problem area.. it looks like maybe its leaking from the locking nut or from the rebuildable unit and the ggts base.. any help would be truly appreciated!

P.S. will the ody v2 rebuildable part be made again so I can upgrade it?
 

jeromeit

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Is it coming from the air channel in the post?

With the o-rings properly installed and the right amount of pressure for them to seal correctly, the air channel is the only place for the Odysseus system to leak from.

Hi Serpent,
That's exactly where its coming from.

check the ceramic jero, maybe its broken. Did you buy Ody second hand?

Hi Imeo,
I checked the ceramic, it seems to be just fine, and I did but it second hand.
 

Serpent67

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The air pressure is causing a siphoning effect when you are putting on your top caps.

Leave the ody on the GGTS when you fill it. Close off the air control fully, close off the feed control fully, fill and put on your caps.

Open the air all the way and take a dry pull to check for gurgling. Vape off any juice that was forced into the air channel before opening juice control.

When the air channel is clear go ahead and open the juice feed a little and vape as normal.
 

Ariel_MX

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Also try this:

29urv9x.jpg


I always install the negative wire as shown in the picture, it could be a little tricky though.

This holidays Odysseus V1 with GGTS base and GGTS were my trip companion, one day I changed the wick beacuse I was teaching a cousin on how to make coils for his Penelope, I was lazy and just installed the negative wire the usual way (just trapping it with the locking nut) and it started leaking, I just installed it as shown in the photograph and no more leaking.
 

Ariel_MX

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Is the wire tucked to the side of the housing and then you twist the ring down tight after?


Exactly, it is tucked in the ceramic housing threads, after tucking it, screw the ceramic housing locking ring (it is easier to do when using the 510 base, but I use that method with the GGTS base also).
 

Aron Gatt

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So I decided to take it all apart ..since I just got it and was pre-coiled I didn't boder wanted to try it :) ..... To find like Manos said " wicks to long going under bottom oring ... Still needs a new set of o-rings cos they look they have done more then they should already :D ...

Now I'm cleaning it and decided to burn the ceramic aswell ...wish me luck cos I only have one :blush:
 

anavidfan

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Me too, Aaron. I cut my wicks right under the ceramic housing and I made my top wick a bit fluffier, like a bow tie. I triim the top wick so that it sticks out like a tie, but I hold it up and look at the profile of the top wick and trim it close to the sides so that the bowtie fits under mouthpiece perfect with nothing hindering flow. It working perfectly amazing, I can open up the mouthpiece for much more juice and it tastes amazing with no leaks.

i also torched the heck out of my silica. I was doing this with a reg lighter and found that sometimes that left my wick looking scorched , kinda grey/black which worried me because they say if your silica cant handle torching than its not safe. I took the same scorched wick and torched it with a blue flame and it went to perfect white now. The taste is even better now. I had noticed that I was getting a sweeter taste from my tobaccos and now they are the original wonderful taste they always had. I take my torch to the wick and watch it turn from grey to orange then white. This gets rid of any residue left even after boiling my wicks in my usual manner.
 
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