**official canvape.com thread**

[WolfeReign]

Please note: Technically i am not qualified to answer the question as i do not own a EVO, but what i present is a attempts to be a help not a hindrance and what i found when i was looking for more information on it when i thought i might want one

Two batteries basic functions (4v, 4.5v, 5v): *MAKE SURE THE POSITIVE CONNECTIONS ARE FACING UPWARD TO THE TOP OF THE BATTERY SLEEVE. PLEASE READ BATTERY SAFETY BELOW!!!

Replace the battery white color LED light flashes 3 times.
Put in the battery, the default 4v constant voltage output, green LED light bright when vaping.
Press the button 3 times continuously, the yellow LED light flashes 3 times, switching the unit to the 4.5v constant voltage output, yellow LED light bright when vaping.
Press the button 3 more times continuous, the red LED light flashes 3 times, switching the unit to the 5v constant voltage output, red LED light bright when vaping.
If the button is held down for longer than 10 seconds per click of the button it will cause the unit to stop working. The LED light flashes 10 times to show the alarm. This is a preventive measure to ensure the unit isn't being fired by accident.
Short circuit protection. If the resistance of atomizer is less than 1.5 OHM or short circuits, the product will transferred to a protection state when vaping. The white LED light flashes 3 times to show the alarm.

The LED lights flash 10 times alarming when the battery voltage is below 6.4v, then the unit will stop working and it's time to change the recharge the batteries.

Looks like it is stuck between voltages for some odd ball reason. I am sure you have tried this, but seeing as Captain Obvious needs to state.....well the obvious....have you tried to change voltages as you did when you got it on Friday?

ARGH! it is to early in the morning for this command coding on the computer......what was also supposed to be in this post is possible EVO manual best i can find

 

[northofamerica]

Looks like it is stuck between voltages for some odd ball reason. I am sure you have tried this, but seeing as Captain Obvious needs to state.....well the obvious....have you tried to change voltages as you did when you got it on Friday?

Of course :0 I tried everything I watched vids, I surfed the forums here. nothing explaining the issue I had so I emailed Tom so he can help out! I even seen those instructions. If I pump out 1000+ of anything, I'm sure id have 800 rejects.

I'm sure Loong totem has like 1% rejects
qc person 3 does his/her/heshe's job properly every time! Too bad the same can't be said for the English instruction writers...

 

[WolfeReign]

I am waiting for the translation writers to come up with something along the lines of "i pee pee in your pepsi" and it is a instruction manual for a coffee maker =)) sadly some of the fails with the translation writers that i have seen are not Family rated....but are funny none the doubt

 

[Mindfield]

Hmm I am having issues with mine. It was working fine from Friday 5pm till about 4 hours ago.

I had a tank on it 1.5 dc smoketech...and it was flashing white led when I went to use it so I thought I used up the batteries since I read that is what white flashing means? So i pulled the batteries out and charged them up again in the trustfire.
put them back onto the SVR and its a whitish yellow light on it and it wont work.

Usually when you connect the batteries the white led flashes saying it has power. What is happening now is that the whiteish yellow light stays on all the time and I have no clue why that is happening. I may have to send it back!!!!! NooooooooooooooooooO!

Anyone have a clue? or a manual ?

Hmm. That definitely sounds unusual. I suppose stupid questions first:

- Are the batteries in the right way? (Nipple side up)
- Are you using it as it comes or with my hotspring mod?
- Is there any residue either on the ends of the battery or on the positive contact point on the module where the top of the batteries make contact?
- Have you tried with a single 16500 or 14500/14650 in eGo mode to see if it works that way?
- Does the atty/carto fire on its own without you pressing the button?

If the light is on constantly that seems to suggest that there is a short somewhere that makes it think the circuit is being completed even when it's not. That could be a purely mechanical short, or it could be the electronics inside.

 

[northofamerica]

Hmm. That definitely sounds unusual. I suppose stupid questions first:
If the light is on constantly that seems to suggest that there is a short somewhere that makes it think the circuit is being completed even when it's not. That could be a purely mechanical short, or it could be the electronics inside.

- Are the batteries in the right way? (Nipple side up)
Yuppers! I don't want it to be a scud missile no matter what! I have been nice and gentle with it and have taken all the precautions with the stack when inside the chamber. When charging, after charge multimeter testing, swapping the top batt and bottom one after every charge when putting them back in the tube.

- Are you using it as it comes or with my hotspring mod?
I have tried both now. since Fri, I have been using the normal battery tube. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the batt compartment at work before I used it. I just ripped an old flash light apart for the spring and tried with the top cap and same thing happens.

- Is there any residue either on the ends of the battery or on the positive contact point on the module where the top of the batteries make contact?
Nope. I made sure to clean all that off with a qtip just in case and things looked fine to begin with. Everything looks great.

- Have you tried with a single 16500 or 14500/14650 in eGo mode to see if it works that way?
I only have 2 IMR18650's, the batteries it came with, and the LT batteries it came with, I cannot try any other configurations atm.

- Does the atty/carto fire on its own without you pressing the button?
It doesn't fire at all. when the batteries make a connection by positive nipple to the switch, and the the battery cover (ground) touches the switch. Solid white on the left led, a solid yellowish light on the right till I unscrew the battery cover. Both batteries register 4.1 after a full charge.

 

[Mindfield]

- Are the batteries in the right way? (Nipple side up)
Yuppers! I don't want it to be a scud missile no matter what! I have been nice and gentle with it and have taken all the precautions with the stack when inside the chamber. When charging, after charge multimeter testing, swapping the top batt and bottom one after every charge when putting them back in the tube.

- Are you using it as it comes or with my hotspring mod?
I have tried both now. since Fri, I have been using the normal battery tube. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the batt compartment at work before I used it. I just ripped an old flash light apart for the spring and tried with the top cap and same thing happens.

- Is there any residue either on the ends of the battery or on the positive contact point on the module where the top of the batteries make contact?
Nope. I made sure to clean all that off with a qtip just in case and things looked fine to begin with. Everything looks great.

- Have you tried with a single 16500 or 14500/14650 in eGo mode to see if it works that way?
I only have 2 IMR18650's, the batteries it came with, and the LT batteries it came with, I cannot try any other configurations atm.

- Does the atty/carto fire on its own without you pressing the button?
It doesn't fire at all. when the batteries make a connection by positive nipple to the switch, and the the battery cover (ground) touches the switch. Solid white on the left led, a solid yellowish light on the right till I unscrew the battery cover. Both batteries register 4.1 after a full charge.

Sounds like a short between the LED and the connector then. The LED (and button) would come before the atty connection in the circuit (since the button is what is supposed to complete the circuit), which would explain why the LED is getting power but the connector isn't. Somehow there's something completing the circuit around the button, but the current isn't getting to the connector.

Last question I suppose would be, is there any liquid residue in the 510 connector, including around the insulator (around the center post)? I'm wondering if somehow some juice got in there and managed to get past the insulator.

 

[FunkyVapes]

I don't mean to de-rail the help discussion above but Canvape doesn't have its own sub-section yet (wink-wink, how do we get one?)

Anywho: I hope I didn't miss a discussion of it yet, but will CanVape be getting the new Stainless Steel Lavatubes? If so I'll wait and give them my business rather than order one through a US vendor.

Let me know if you've heard news

 

[zer0ith]

I don't mean to de-rail the help discussion above but Canvape doesn't have its own sub-section yet (wink-wink, how do we get one?)

Anywho: I hope I didn't miss a discussion of it yet, but will CanVape be getting the new Stainless Steel Lavatubes? If so I'll wait and give them my business rather than order one through a US vendor.

Let me know if you've heard news

Mopar would need to pay to have his own sub forum (from what I understand).

 

[Mindfield]

I didn't even know there was a SS LT. Interesting.

 

[FunkyVapes]

Mopar would need to pay to have his own sub forum (from what I understand).

Damn. I wonder how much it would be. I would be down for donating, or even paying a little extra on an order (say $1.00 or so) to fund it

I didn't even know there was a SS LT. Interesting.

Yeah, aluminum in silver too.

Here are the pics I could drag up. They are rebranded for Apollo, and you can click to zoom






Snazzy for a cost-effective VV PV.

 

[Mindfield]

Wow ... that's surprisingly sweet looking. I wonder if they bumped the amp limit? That would be even sweeter.

 

[FunkyVapes]

Wow ... that's surprisingly sweet looking. I wonder if they bumped the amp limit? That would be even sweeter.

Nope, apparently they didn't, which kind of sucks. I only gather that from the discussions on Apollo ecigs and Genral Lavatube threads though. Still, at the prices that people have been talking about, a VV device in stainless would still be a bargain for someone new to the idea. I am definitely going to pick one up as well.

 

[Madagain]

I don't mean to de-rail the help discussion above but Canvape doesn't have its own sub-section yet (wink-wink, how do we get one?)

ECF has limited the number of supplier sub-forums at 80 and there is a LONG waiting list for them. So I doubt it is something that will happen within ECF any time soon.

 

[FunkyVapes]

ECF has limited the number of supplier sub-forums at 80 and there is a LONG waiting list for them. So I doubt it is something that will happen within ECF any time soon.

Bummer, maaaaan.

In any case CanVape rocks

 

[therealcmac]

Hmm I am having issues with mine. It was working fine from Friday 5pm till about 4 hours ago.

I had a tank on it 1.5 dc smoketech...and it was flashing white led when I went to use it so I thought I used up the batteries since I read that is what white flashing means? So i pulled the batteries out and charged them up again in the trustfire.
put them back onto the SVR and its a whitish yellow light on it and it wont work.

Usually when you connect the batteries the white led flashes saying it has power. What is happening now is that the whiteish yellow light stays on all the time and I have no clue why that is happening. I may have to send it back!!!!! NooooooooooooooooooO!

Anyone have a clue? or a manual ?

I had a flashing what i percieved as red/orange light every once in a while, it would not go away until i either hit it or just let is sit for a while.....i got a replacement.

 

[ThunderHammer]

EVO VV in the mail!! Man Tom and Adam let no grass grow under their feet when it comes to service. Paid this morning, CP lists it as accepted at post office 2.45 EST.

Now questions and thoughts. After watching mindfiled blowing into the control unit, I see a black disc on the bottom. Is that a rubber "seal" that doesnt seal unless the mod is assembled? If not, I am thinking that a proper seal could easily be fashioned for it; if you don't want to do the Hot Spring mod.

Second; I saw a vid where one fellow inserted a pair of AW 16340 protected batts without size issue. Safe alternative? can someone throw a digital caliper on their stock batts and post the measurements?



EDIT: Oh and this from Loongtotem site.... What does it mean?

" The EVO (SVR) have Perfect overcharge protection, high current protection and short circuit protection.
It is completely resolve MOD type product issues and product the battery quesion.
The EVO(SVR) have ON/OFF function."

 

[Mindfield]

Definitely do not use protected batteries. They cannot provide the kind of instant high and sustained current the EVO requires if you're using LR duals at high voltage. A 1.5ohm dual coil at the high setting requires over 3A under load, which means you need a battery that can deliver a lot of amperage instantaneously and for brief sustained periods. Standard protected batteries are typically 1C, and the rule of thumb is that they can deliver in amps somewhere around what their mAh rating is. (This is technically incorrect because there's no way to know what the battery's internal resistance is, but it's what people tend to go by.) Protected 800mAh 18350 batteries could therefore deliver about 0.8A sustained instant power if you go by that rule (it may be more or less). That's known as 1C -- that is, it can deliver 1x its amperage limit. Some protected batteries (notably, some TrustFires) can deliver 2C (twice the current) but that's still nowhere near enough for high amp applications like this.

Stick to IMR batteries. AW IMRs are typically 5C-10C depending on the cell (smaller cell = lower C), meaning they can instantly deliver 5-10x the sustained current of a standard 1C protected battery, which is more than enough for our purposes here.

As for the underside of the EVO module itself, it's plastic and doesn't create any sort of seal. The real problem with the EVO isn't so much the lack of its ability to create a seal as it is the tight clearance around the batteries in the tube. There's barely 1/16th of a millimeter clearance around the batteries, which is why they kind of glide into the tube -- the clearance is so tight that it takes a moment for the air to escape out around the batteries when you drop them in. If you use anything other than the batteries it comes with (AW IMRs, for example) they're ever so slightly thicker and will be sort of jammed in there to the point where you have to shake the tube to get the batteries out again.

If one of the batteries goes into thermal runaway there's almost nowhere for the gases to go. That's going to increase the pressure and, more importantly, the heat inside the tube. If it doesn't pop off the endcaps (and it would have to blow through both endcaps if you have the top cap screwed over the battery cap, because those vent holes in the top cap are utterly useless since the inner battery endcap blowing off will block those vent holes when it slams against the outer tube) then it may turn into a little pipe bomb.

Don't get me wrong, the chances of that happening are exceedingly slim, but I'd rather not take the chance at all. That's why I came up with the hotspring mod. The endcap tube is larger, which leaves room around the batteries for gas to move, and it already has vent holes, so it has a place to go. A catastrophic failure of one or both batteries won't have to build up pressure to blow off the endcap; it has plenty of room to simply blow off the gases around the batteries through the vent holes -- and not out through the button, because out the end vent is the path of least resistance for escaping gases.

Oh, finally, yes, I did discover there is an on/off feature, but the problem with it is that you do not want to activate it with an atty or carto attached, because you have to literally hold it down for 15 seconds to turn it off.

 

[northofamerica]

Definitely do not use protected batteries. They cannot provide the kind of instant high and sustained current the EVO requires if you're using LR duals at high voltage. A 1.5ohm dual coil at the high setting requires over 3A under load, which means you need a battery that can deliver a lot of amperage instantaneously and for brief sustained periods. Standard protected batteries are typically 1C, and the rule of thumb is that they can deliver in amps somewhere around what their mAh rating is. (This is technically incorrect because there's no way to know what the battery's internal resistance is, but it's what people tend to go by.) Protected 800mAh 18350 batteries could therefore deliver about 0.8A sustained instant power if you go by that rule (it may be more or less). That's known as 1C -- that is, it can deliver 1x its amperage limit. Some protected batteries (notably, some TrustFires) can deliver 2C (twice the current) but that's still nowhere near enough for high amp applications like this.

Stick to IMR batteries. AW IMRs are typically 5C-10C depending on the cell (smaller cell = lower C), meaning they can instantly deliver 5-10x the sustained current of a standard 1C protected battery, which is more than enough for our purposes here.

As for the underside of the EVO module itself, it's plastic and doesn't create any sort of seal. The real problem with the EVO isn't so much the lack of its ability to create a seal as it is the tight clearance around the batteries in the tube. There's barely 1/16th of a millimeter clearance around the batteries, which is why they kind of glide into the tube -- the clearance is so tight that it takes a moment for the air to escape out around the batteries when you drop them in. If you use anything other than the batteries it comes with (AW IMRs, for example) they're ever so slightly thicker and will be sort of jammed in there to the point where you have to shake the tube to get the batteries out again.

If one of the batteries goes into thermal runaway there's almost nowhere for the gases to go. That's going to increase the pressure and, more importantly, the heat inside the tube. If it doesn't pop off the endcaps (and it would have to blow through both endcaps if you have the top cap screwed over the battery cap, because those vent holes in the top cap are utterly useless since the inner battery endcap blowing off will block those vent holes when it slams against the outer tube) then it may turn into a little pipe bomb.

Don't get me wrong, the chances of that happening are exceedingly slim, but I'd rather not take the chance at all. That's why I came up with the hotspring mod. The endcap tube is larger, which leaves room around the batteries for gas to move, and it already has vent holes, so it has a place to go. A catastrophic failure of one or both batteries won't have to build up pressure to blow off the endcap; it has plenty of room to simply blow off the gases around the batteries through the vent holes -- and not out through the button, because out the end vent is the path of least resistance for escaping gases.

Oh, finally, yes, I did discover there is an on/off feature, but the problem with it is that you do not want to activate it with an atty or carto attached, because you have to literally hold it down for 15 seconds to turn it off.

Sounds like a short between the LED and the connector then. The LED (and button) would come before the atty connection in the circuit (since the button is what is supposed to complete the circuit), which would explain why the LED is getting power but the connector isn't. Somehow there's something completing the circuit around the button, but the current isn't getting to the connector.

Last question I suppose would be, is there any liquid residue in the 510 connector, including around the insulator (around the center post)? I'm wondering if somehow some juice got in there and managed to get past the insulator.

I am going to try the on off feature now that I am home from work! I did try to find where i saw that it had an on off but i think it was on a video now that I think harder. THinking hurts lately. I just want a nice 5volt vape. is that too much to ask. I am wishing I had a single coil carto in my box

Answer to the third question:

there is no liquid residue whatsoever, nor does it smell like peach if i huff it real good lol even from below the switch.
( that's what was in the tank)

I think now that I see that therealcmac has had some switch issues as well... argh

 

[pantera]

I would say test with another carto/atty to isolate. If it works, check the post on the bottom of the carto to make sure it is centered or it will short on itself when connected and fired. If another carto does the same, I would have to assume the EVO is DOA

 

[ThunderHammer]

So does the Canvape Evo have the big tube? I have seen some reviews that the big tube was not supplied with it and it wouldn;t be long enough for the hot spring mod.

Just a thought for the DEAD Evo, take the batteries out, leave the atty on and press the fire button. It may remove any "memory" from the circuits. Then try firing it up again. Just give it a go and see. The IC inside could have "bluescreened" and need a reboot. This will completely draw down any charge left in the capacitors. These, LOL:



It may sound funny, but when I swap memory in a laptop, you need to remove the batts and press the power button to bleed any charge off the capacitors. Only the internal clock will be left powered. Otherwise you could fry the new chips or processor when installing.

It sounds funny but I have also experienced this in a semi truck when I used to drive, The engine computer froze and I was left at the side of the road in the mountains of Wyoming. I thought for a minute and figured it was like a Windows blue screen. I disconnected the batteries, hit the ignition, turned all the lights on (of course nothing worked) then reconnected the battery and fired the truck up. The computer had reset and I drove without problem for thousands of miles. Keep this in mind if your car just stops for no apparent reason.