Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3 *PART 2*

[coldgin96]

According to the tracking info I should be getting my P3 back from ProVape in a few hours!

I also got a response from them about what the problem was, and apparently one of the wires connected to the 510 pin was broken, so they replaced the wires and pin

They said it was likely caused by the 510 pin being twisted when I screwed atty's down so they were flush with the top cap, and that I should only screw them down until they are snug (even though that will leave a gap). Doesn't this kind of defeat the purpose of having a self-adjusting pin? Am I the only one who thought the whole point of having a self-adjusting pin is so you can screw any atty down until it's flush?

Anyways, I'm curious what my fellow P3 users do when attaching an atty to their P3, do you make sure to only screw it down until it's snug, even if it leaves a gap? Or do you just screw it down until it's flush with the top cap?

Oh and I feel like I should mention that it's not like I would force my atty's to screw down flush, they always went all the way down with very little resistance

If the ProVape haters see that explanation, they'll have a field day. Makes the P3 look rather weak...IMHO
All my nautilus' sit flush. The carto tank I tried using had a slight gap. I turned it 'till it stopped and didn't go any further. Learned that when using HH357LB's on my V2. Always just turned whatever I was using until it just barely stopped.

 

[rbrylawski]

If the ProVape haters see that explanation, they'll have a field day. Makes the P3 look rather weak...IMHO
All my Nautilus' sit flush. The carto tank I tried using had a slight gap. I turned it 'till it stopped and didn't go any further. Learned that when using HH357LB's on my V2. Always just turned whatever I was using until it just barely stopped.

I'm not sure I agree with this comment. Yes, all my Nautilus sit flush (when I still had them), but another atty I had didn't completely. Is that really Provape's issue, or is it caused the manufacturing tolerances of atty's? I'd say it's the later. Unless you can point us in the direction of a mod in which every single atty on the planet sits completely flush. Can you do that?

 

[coldgin96]

It's a good question. My belief is the most ideal situation is when you can make contact with the connection pin and then have less than a quarter turn after that. Anymore is unnecessary and only invites problems (like grinding down the post on your Provari or worse what you encountered). I have an atty now that leaves a large gap. But the center pin is supposedly adjustable so I will look at shortening it up. Many center pins on attys are adjustable these days so you can attain an ideal length so you are not making excessive turns and grinding down your positive post on your P3. I don't care what brand of PV you have or what design...excessive and unnecessary turning of a 510 connector on your positive post is not an ideal situation.

Not talking about whether a atty sits flush or not. Talking about the P3 failing, needing repair, the explanation that was given and the fact DEAc23 said he didn't force it and used very little resistence... Please go back and read what I wrote...

 

[rbrylawski]

Not talking about whether a atty sits flush or not. Talking about the P3 failing, needing repair, the explanation that was given and the fact DEAc23 he didn't force it and used very little resistence...

Sorry if I didn't quite understand your post. But given the extremely small number of Provari repairs to the vast majority of Provari's out there, I don't really think this gives much fuel to anyone. No offense to DEAC, but his didn't force it, could certainly be harder than my didn't force it.

 

[Bronze]

Not talking about whether a atty sits flush or not. Talking about the P3 failing, needing repair, the explanation that was given and the fact DEAc23 said he didn't force it and used very little resistence... Please go back and read what I wrote...

I responded to DEA, not you. Go back and read what I wrote and who I replied to. That said, I maintain that any additional turning of an atty that is not needed to make a connection is not good for the positive post regardless of what brand PV we're talking about. For starters, the slot lines on atty center posts almost all have burrs on them and they act like little chisels that grind down the positive post on your PV. Doesn't matter if they are floating posts or not. The more you turn the atty the more the post gets chewed up and the more sideway force you put on that post. If it can be minimized by adjusting the center pin on the atty then that is what I (and many others) recommend. This is why many attys come with adjustable center pins these days. That's what I said. Nothing more, nothing less. I'll leave whether you think Provape is negligent to your opinion and withhold mine.

 

[DEAc23]

I feel like I should mention that I don't really mind having to figure out a workaround to make my atty's look flush without screwing them all the way down, I just didn't think I had to do something like that with a P3, considering the way they describe it on the website (maybe that's expecting too much). Also, I do know that there are scenarios where it would be common sense not to tighten an atty down anymore (like Bronze mentioned), but I don't think that the way I tightened mine down qualifies as excessive or unnecessary.

Anyways, I use the same type of atty all the time, so it shouldn't be difficult for me to find a way to make them look flush without tightening them down further than needed (I'm thinking some sort of thin 22-23mm washer). I was just curious what other P3 users thought.

 

[Bronze]

I feel like I should mention that I don't really mind having to figure out a workaround to make my atty's look flush without screwing them all the way down, I just didn't think I had to do something like that with a P3, considering the way they describe it on the website (maybe that's expecting too much). Also, I do know that there are scenarios where it would be common sense not to tighten an atty down anymore (like Bronze mentioned), but I don't think that the way I tightened mine down qualifies as excessive or unnecessary.

Anyways, I use the same type of atty all the time, so it shouldn't be difficult for me to find a way to make them look flush without tightening them down further than needed (I'm thinking some sort of thin 22-23mm washer). I was just curious what other P3 users thought.

I don't want to imply yuo were negligent. I just happen to know what you're talkig about. I have used Provaris for a long time including a P3 the day they became available. My Kayfuns fit perfectly...never fails to make a connection and always sit flush. I have an Achilles the same way. Just got another Achilles that leaves a large gap after connection and I don't want to screw it down anymore than once it makes connection because I can feel it grinding away on that positive post in my P3. Before long I know I will destroy that positive post if I choose to screw it in all the way. My recommendation is to not screw it in all the way and if the gap bothers you (like it does me) then try to adjust your center pin on your atty (if it is adjustable). That your P3 got wrecked is obviously a problem. Did yours have a defect? Very possible. Provape is not immune to quality problems. No one is. But I do know if you have an atty that has an excessively protruding center pin that sooner or later you will eventually have problems with the positive post regardless what brand of PV you have. The floating pin on your PV helps a lot to minimize potential damage but it doesn't eliminate it.

 

[coldgin96]

Sorry if I didn't quite understand your post. But given the extremely small number of Provari repairs to the vast majority of Provari's out there, I don't really think this gives much fuel to anyone. No offense to DEAC, but his didn't force it, could certainly be harder than my didn't force it.

Np, Sir Rod. Perhaps I also took the tone of your post wrong and for that I apologize. Good catch that I was actually replying to you and included the wrong quote in my reply...Everything happens for a reason and I learned something today.

Anyway, I agree with you on the degree of force that should be taken when turning a atty, hence, what I wrote about my experience with attys and my ProVari's. ProVaris' because that's all we own and that's all we have owned since 2012 and it's all we will probably ever own...

It's obvious you were able to grasp what I was trying to say and that's good enough for me, I won't keep beating a dead horse, I have better things to do.

 

[rbrylawski]

Np, Sir Rod. Perhaps I also took the tone of your post wrong and for that I apologize. Good catch that I was actually replying to you and included the wrong quote in my reply...Everything happens for a reason and I learned something today.

Anyway, I agree with you on the degree of force that should be taken when turning a atty, hence, what I wrote about my experience with attys and my ProVari's. ProVaris' because that's all we own and that's all we have owned since 2012 and it's all we will probably ever own...

It's obvious you were able to grasp what I was trying to say and that's good enough for me, I won't keep beating a dead horse, I have better things to do.

We're good! Really, the only take away from this is as usual: Provape stands behind their products and fixed DEAC's P3, and it has been shipped back good as new. There are few, if any other manufacturers who take such good care of their customers, regardless of what ultimately was the issue. Yes indeed!

 

[coldgin96]

I responded to DEA, not you. Go back and read what I wrote and who I replied to. That said, I maintain that any additional turning of an atty that is not needed to make a connection is not good for the positive post regardless of what brand PV we're talking about. For starters, the slot lines on atty center posts almost all have burrs on them and they act like little chisels that grind down the positive post on your PV. Doesn't matter if they are floating posts or not. The more you turn the atty the more the post gets chewed up and the more sideway force you put on that post. If it can be minimized by adjusting the center pin on the atty then that is what I (and many others) recommend. This is why many attys come with adjustable center pins these days. That's what I said. Nothing more, nothing less. I'll leave whether you think Provape is negligent to your opinion and withhold mine.

I was actually responding to Sir Rod and accidently replied to your quote. I don't blame you for your reaction, I would have done the same. In fact, I did. I just used the wrong quote....

I am prescribed quite a bit of pain medication and will continue to screw up from time to time as it is sometimes hard for me to think clearly, so my apologies to all in advance...

 

[Katdarling]

I find a business card sized space between the Kabuki and the Ti. Completely agreeing with the Bronzed One's take on the matter, I have found my own fix for gaposis. Granted, it's not for everyone.

LOLZ Turf! Good to see you!!!

 

[DEAc23]

Did ProVape come out with a 3rd spring for the P3? I just got mine back and I'm pretty sure they replaced the spring, as it seems to be much larger than the one that was in it when I shipped it in. I noticed it immediately because I had to push a bit harder just to get the threads to catch when I inserted a battery (I've never had to push too hard to get the threads to meet, even when it was brand new). I'm quite sure it's not that I had the smaller spring to begin with, as I don't have a Beta. I also ordered an extra spring when I originally purchased my CK P3 (on 12/18/2014), and that extra spring is smaller than the one that is now in my P3's end cap.

Here's a couple pics showing what I mean (I took the third pic with an AW IMR 18350 battery in the device so you can see how far I have to push it just to get the threads to meet):

The new spring also seems to be all silver, while my old one had some sort coating on it (like the spare). I just want to make sure this is normal, as I haven't heard anything about a third (larger) spring...

 

[Ca Ike]

Did ProVape come out with a 3rd spring for the P3? I just got mine back and I'm pretty sure they replaced the spring, as it seems to be much larger than the one that was in it when I shipped it in. I noticed it immediately because I had to push a bit harder just to get the threads to catch when I inserted a battery (I've never had to push too hard to get the threads to meet, even when it was brand new). I'm quite sure it's not that I had the smaller spring to begin with, as I don't have a Beta. I also ordered an extra spring when I originally purchased my CK P3 (on 12/18/2014), and that extra spring is smaller than the one that is now in my P3's end cap.

Here's a couple pics showing what I mean (I took the third pic with an AW IMR 18350 battery in the device so you can see how far I have to push it just to get the threads to meet):

The new spring also seems to be all silver, while my old one had some sort coating on it (like the spare). I just want to make sure this is normal, as I haven't heard anything about a third (larger) spring...

ProvApe often replaces springs just because they can and its cheap insurance against a possible problem. They replaced mine and it was only s few weeks old when I sent it in for my mishap. Yours aren't different in size but the taper in the wind is a bit different. Should work fine though

 

[rbrylawski]

I can tell you, all my P3 springs (I ordered some extra's a few months ago) are 100% silver without any coating (that I can see) on them. They probably just stretched out the spring a bit so it makes the most secure contact with your battery possible. Looks normal to me.

 

[raitizz]

I can tell you, all my P3 springs (I ordered some extra's a few months ago) are 100% silver without any coating (that I can see) on them. They probably just stretched out the spring a bit so it makes the most secure contact with your battery possible. Looks normal to me.

100% silver? Hmm.

R

*via Tapatalk

 

[DEAc23]

Yeah I assumed that it would work fine, considering I don't think ProVape would ship a device out that wouldn't work fine, let alone alter it so that it wouldn't work fine I was just curious if there was a 3rd spring released that I didn't hear about (which is a possibility, since I haven't been following this thread lately).

EDIT - I got distracted and didn't hit reply right away, so I didn't see the two posts above me before I hit "Post Reply". I do know it isn't the same spring that was in there when I sent it, as that one definitely had some sort of white coating on it, just like the spare I have.

 

[TFL!]

Not that I have heard about.
PS.
I think the silver looking stuff may be a coating (lube) uses in the making of the spring.

 

[Mowgli]

My buddy broke the contact pin off inside his Provari 2.5 that I sold him.
I opened a ticket & sent it in for him.
I bought it used from ECF classifieds and told them as much.
They repaired it and sent it back for free.

ProVape Rocks

 

[Bronze]

I was actually responding to Sir Rod and accidently replied to your quote. I don't blame you for your reaction, I would have done the same. In fact, I did. I just used the wrong quote....

I am prescribed quite a bit of pain medication and will continue to screw up from time to time as it is sometimes hard for me to think clearly, so my apologies to all in advance...

If it was really good pain medication you wouldn't care what anyone thought of you.

 

[AstroTurf]

Did ProVape come out with a 3rd spring for the P3? I just got mine back and I'm pretty sure they replaced the spring, as it seems to be much larger than the one that was in it when I shipped it in. I noticed it immediately because I had to push a bit harder just to get the threads to catch when I inserted a battery (I've never had to push too hard to get the threads to meet, even when it was brand new). I'm quite sure it's not that I had the smaller spring to begin with, as I don't have a Beta. I also ordered an extra spring when I originally purchased my CK P3 (on 12/18/2014), and that extra spring is smaller than the one that is now in my P3's end cap.

Here's a couple pics showing what I mean (I took the third pic with an AW IMR 18350 battery in the device so you can see how far I have to push it just to get the threads to meet):

The new spring also seems to be all silver, while my old one had some sort coating on it (like the spare). I just want to make sure this is normal, as I haven't heard anything about a third (larger) spring...

My comparo pic can be found here...

Provari, the ax has come for you | Page 32 | E-Cigarette Forum

I'd say they have changed.

Jim