"Official" Super-T Picture and comment thread!

Status
Not open for further replies.

atavanhalen

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 27, 2010
2,389
669
Wolverine Lake, Michigan
OK, so I am going to get my first Precise. It will be used with a Kick. Now that the Kick has been out for a while, is it simply plug and play- or is there anything in the way of washers, spacers, or o-rings that I should know about to include with my order. Thanks!

All preciseplus's come with a washer and oring kit for adjusting, although it never hurts to have extras. It is mostly plug and play but you may need to use a bit of sandpaper on the inside of the tube and just make sure to keep the brass contacts clean. There is some helpful tips in the kick thread in this sub.
 

wasabi5858

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 8, 2012
399
539
Los Angeles
Pick up my 2 tone P+18350 today, it looks great!

P-2tone_DID.jpg
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
I just love how well the DID fits on the flat top P+18***! I recently traded away my polished P+18500 for a P+18650, which I've left in its original finish (for now), but I'm considering doing my own variation on the two tone finish by only polishing the middle section of the tube and taping up the ends with painters tape to preserve the media blasted finish, and then polishing up the lock on the switch. Should look pretty solid with a polished DID on there and a media blasted T-Tip :D
I have some free time tonight, so maybe I'll run down to the garage and get busy on it, but before I do so, has anyone else done/seen anything similar and can post pics of it?
Pick up my 2 tone P+18350 today, it looks great!

P-2tone_DID.jpg
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
Well, I got impatient and just went ahead and did it xD
I'm not sure how I feel about it just yet, but after I polish a few more little things on it (the lock on the switch for instance, but i need to use my dremel to do that part, it's too small for my 6" wheels, it'd fly right out of my hands), I think it'll look quite a bit bit better. This was really just an experiment to see if taped off areas would hold under the heat and friction created by the wheels and still produce clean cut lines, which it did! More experimenting to come! For now, here are some pictures of the final product:




And here it is all taped up. Disregard those gnarly smudges and swirl marks, after a good rub down with 3 gradients of microfiber cloths and some swirl mark removing powder, it's as polished as can be :D
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
Eesh, it looks weird to me....gonna go ahead and polish the 510 cap and the switch parts, but not the conical exterior of the switch, just the lock and switch itself, or maybe just the switch and not the lock. Please throw out some suggestions, I think there's potential here, but I'm not entirely positive what direction to take it in.
 

jamesd1628

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 23, 2010
701
815
Chattanooga/Ringgold
Eesh, it looks weird to me....gonna go ahead and polish the 510 cap and the switch parts, but not the conical exterior of the switch, just the lock and switch itself, or maybe just the switch and not the lock. Please throw out some suggestions, I think there's potential here, but I'm not entirely positive what direction to take it in.

That's definitely a one-of-a-kind P+. I like it. You did such a good job with the polishing that it almost looks like the parts don't match. Maybe if the center part wasn't quite as shiny, maybe halfway between the mirror look and the media blasted look. OR, fade the finish so that it only gradually goes to the super shiny only at the very center. Just thinking out loud.
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
That's definitely a one-of-a-kind P+. I like it. You did such a good job with the polishing that it almost looks like the parts don't match. Maybe if the center part wasn't quite as shiny, maybe halfway between the mirror look and the media blasted look. OR, fade the finish so that it only gradually goes to the super shiny only at the very center. Just thinking out loud.
Hmm, I think you're onto something. I need to play with fading the media blasted finish without stripping it all off. It'll be tough to do a consistent job throughout the whole thing, so I might have to bring it all to a mirror finish and then start from there. Might need to go out and cop some bristled wheels and black compound as well :/
I think maybe a true swap from the polished caps would be good - i.e. polish everything BUT the ends. So it would be kind of a satin tipped precise.
Hmm, I could get down. I might just do the top cap though, to make the two devices look more like 1 solid unit. Hell, might also throw the SS tank back on the shorty DID to make it look a bit less busy.

Anyways, just polished up the lock on the switch with my dremel, and lemme tell you guys that little parts like that get ....ing HOT when youre going at em with the wheel! So on top of having a newly polished lock, I also have a gnarly blister on my index finger...derp



I got some closeups of point where the two finishes meet, and I gotta say that the lines are damn clean! Artists tape never ceases to amaze me :D



I think I might have been around 0.5mm off with the tape job in one or two places, but I don't think anyone but myself would notice...
 

atavanhalen

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 27, 2010
2,389
669
Wolverine Lake, Michigan
I think it still needs something, if I was gonna make a suggestion it would be to polish the top cap and polish the rest of the switch and I think that would look awesome but just my opinion. I also think the idea of toning down the polished part may even things out a bit as well. Great job polishing though, I need to try my hand at doing something like that to my 18350. What grit pastes do you use?
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
I think it still needs something, if I was gonna make a suggestion it would be to polish the top cap and polish the rest of the switch and I think that would look awesome but just my opinion. I also think the idea of toning down the polished part may even things out a bit as well. Great job polishing though, I need to try my hand at doing something like that to my 18350. What grit pastes do you use?

I just use a spiral sewn cotton wheel with red compound for the initial refinish and then canton flannel wheels with white compound for the final mirror finish. I really like your suggestion, I think I'll give it a go! Worst case scenario, I just polish the entire thing up like I did to my P+500
 

Darhorn

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Have expensive tastes... and the Precise line fits right in with that

photo.jpg

This is normally what goes to work with me. iPad 3 with a Minot wood cover in the Muzetto bag along with 2 Precise+ e-cigs a Tiffany pen along with a Maglus stylus for taking notes. and stuff my iPhone is there somewhere :)
 

rwechsler

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 2, 2011
2,580
4,050
32
Los Angeles, CA
Pardon me for not acknowledging your photo of this truly epic setup sooner! Between the pictures that you and Vaptamist have posted on this thread, I'm really starting to reconsider my compulsion to polish up every mod I get my hands on (the only ones I have left that haven't been refinished to a mirror polish by now are my matte black Provari and my Zenesis AYS)! And what's worse, now itching to add at least 2 more Precise+s to my collection, one to keep in the stock media blasted finish, and one in that slick machined finish. Im signed up on the HF list for 2 Megas and another Mini, which to me means that I'll be in need another flat top P+ for a Mega (probably an 18500), which after seeing Vaptamist's pics of his, I'd just have to send out to get media blasted, and then a machined finish slant top P+18350 for the Mini, which would also look great in the same 2-tone finish you have on yours, especially if I could refinish a few small accents on the HF to carry the same design motif into the atomizer!
But come on Aftrmth, you're killing me here buddy! I dying to see this triple coil setup you've been talking about! I'm always pushing and pushing my devices to get the absolute most current running through em, and a triple coil HF has to take the cake (all that I can think about is how I'd manage to roll up a tripod wick for it...).
Since discovering the possibility of running a dual coil/dual wick setup in a genesis atomizer about a year ago (with the Orion v1.0), I've been experimenting and tinkering with getting such a device to operate properly, which meant satiating the ariflow needs of both coils, while still being able to preserve the potentially ungodly TH. So what I did for my HF mini is that I asked my buddy Urquidez to machine a handful of custom top caps for me, of which some had 2 airholes drilled, both facing direclty over each coil. Before I was lucky enough to have those caps, I could never get a dual coil installed that was pleasant to vape on, as either one coil got virtually no airflow, or the airflow was split between both coils by centering the AH directly between them, facing the center post, which screwed up the flow dynamics and vaped like a jacked up Katana v2 before you rotated the teflon insert. With that being said, I'm really curious to hear what you have to say about the triple coil, and how you've managed to remedy my single airhole/multiple coil conundrum. Currently, the dual airhole/dual coil setup I have installed works great (meters in at exactly 1.0Ω, with 4 wraps of 32g per coil), so I can only imagine how something similar but with THREE airholes would perform...Even if they were all only 0.8mm, the thing would still chug like no other, not to mention it'd spit out some truly filling-melting throat hit. And to tie it all back to SuperT, bc I totally went off on a superfluous tangent there, I think they hit the nail right on the head with their plans for the strata (at least from what we heard a month or so back, I'm not quite up to date on that thread unfortunately) by incorporating numerous tiny airholes around the outer circumference of the vapor chamber!
To be honest, I really wasn't into the P+ line AT ALL until I really got into genesis atomizers! Hell, I sold the first P+ I had literally 6 days after getting it! But now that I've done a bit more research on the rhodium contacts and have found atomizers with easily adjustable center pins that don't require any gaps at the connection to allow for airflow, I've really come around on the P+ and can say that they're undoubtedly one of my favorite mechanical mods out there. I still don't love that you can't adjust the center pin, but I now understand why it is the way it is. The line is called the "Precise" for a reason, by implementing an adjustable center pin, you'd end up sacrificing the truly masterful precision of switch as a whole, its throw, how perfectly batteries fit, and how perfectly the lock was planned out, which would be a serious waste, especially if it was all for someone like myself who'd only want to adjust the center pin for purely aesthetic reasons xD

HOLY HELL THAT WAS A WALL OF TEXT! But I guess I just wrote out exactly what I'll be covering in my review of the P+! Going to do a joint review on the P+16340 and the P+18650, as they both just pair so nicely with Mini DID and Standard DID! If anyone has anything noteworthy that might not be common knowledge about the device that further makes it stand out against the crowd of mechanical mods, please shoot me a PM :D
modded P+

:evil::evil::evil:

moddedp.jpg

 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread