Ohm Reader vs Multimeter?

[Quin]

Hey, I was wanting to get into rebuilding my coils, and I wanted to ask a question before I even get around to buying the stuff.

Will a standard 510 Ohm reader (or something like the OmniTester) check for shorts in the coil, or do I absolutely need a multimeter for that?
Also, would something like a Vamo or Provari serve the same purpose, or would it, if I put a bad coil on it (that had a short), kill the batteries, and I'd just be destroying and tossing a ton of expensive batteries?

If devices/batteries that are equipped with an Ohm reader would work just as well, what's the best bang for my buck (I found a Vamo on Ebay for $40, and that seemed a decent price - but it doesn't come with a charger, though it comes with two batteries).


Obviously I don't want exploding batteries here, but using a 510 Ohm reader or something like a Vamo seems like it would be easier than using a standard multimeter... so if those suffice, I think I might go that route.


Thanks for the advice!

 

[crxess]

Used to say get an ohm meter.

Now, it really depends on what one is planning in the Building department. Most ohm meters are cheap and suffer inaccuracies. Even a good Multimeter has limitations. Excellent meters start in the $Hundreds.

 

[sandman97289]

The issue with multimeters is that the inexpensive normal ones aren't built to read lower ohms. You'll need a more expensive one like a Fluke to do that effectively. I have tested a few multimeters myself and have blown all of their fuses trying to read 0.5 ohm and below. Then again I have multimeters that are $50 and below.

 

[Quin]

I don't want to do any sub ohm builds, I just want to rebuild 1.8-2.5ohm coils for my Aerotank and EVODs (and perhaps eventually for a dripper, since I keep wanting to get a dripper for testing juices without having to fill up and entire tank)... so I'm hoping I wouldn't have too much of a problem with blowing fuses?
I'm also not concerned if the readings are off by .2ohms, because as long as it's in the range I want, I'm sure it'll be fine.

I just want to know that the rebuilt coils are in the right range and that they won't short and damage my hardware.

The idea here was to save money in the long run and to reduce the waste from vaping. I really don't want to spend $100 on a multimeter. If I did... I'd have a Provari by now! XD

 

[sandman97289]

I didn't read your original post carefully enough. You mentioned whether a Vamo or Provari would be sufficient enough and that is the key here. Most people myself included just use their devices as ohm readers. Almost all modern VV/VW devices have the capability of reading resistance with varying degrees of accuracy. Along with that most of them come with short circuit protection and will warn you if there is a short. For example, all of my DNA30 devices will flash "Check Atomizer" if it detects a short.

In short I'd recommend just using your VV/VW device if you plan on buying one to do the measurements for now until you get to sub-ohm building.

 

[Quin]

Thank you so much Sandman. That's what I was hoping. ^_^
I thought it would be much more convenient to use something like a Vamo or Provari then having to mess around with a multimeter - and I really enjoy VV batteries, so the extra fun of VW could be something I might enjoy playing with (also, it'd give me a battery that doesn't make my Aerotank look laughably enormous).

I figured for another $10-$20 (than I would spend on an ohm reader or multimeter), I can justify getting one of these devices... ya know, in the name of safety and all. ^_~

 

[KC33]

If you're looking to buy a Provari beware that there's a new model coming out soon. So you will probably be able to get the current version for less. The new version is reported to be more expensive but it comes with the extender and a few other toys.

 

[DetraMental]

The Provari 3 does have vw and an extended menu with tips on how to fix the error. It goes up to 20 watts as well. I'm curious on the price tag for this new P3.

 

[VaPreis]

The issue with multimeters is that the inexpensive normal ones aren't built to read lower ohms. You'll need a more expensive one like a Fluke to do that effectively. I have tested a few multimeters myself and have blown all of their fuses trying to read 0.5 ohm and below. Then again I have multimeters that are $50 and below.

So then were you testing the resistance while the coils were lit? Because checking resistance of a dead circuit doesn't blow meter fuses. Resistance is always tested with the power off.

Mistakes that result in blown meter fuses are generally the result of improperly testing the amperage draw of a live circuit, seeing as the meter is put in series with a live circuit.

For the OP, I find my 510 resistance testing box to be adequate for reasonable coils builds. Mine is a Fasttech offering and I've tested it against the $300 meter I use at work and it seems to be spot on.

Of course, they could both be wrong.

 

[Ronald3638]

So then were you testing the resistance while the coils were lit? Because checking resistance of a dead circuit doesn't blow meter fuses. Resistance is always tested with the power off.

Mistakes that result in blown meter fuses are generally the result of improperly testing the amperage draw of a live circuit, seeing as the meter is put in series with a live circuit.

For the OP, I find my 510 resistance testing box to be adequate for reasonable coils builds. Mine is a Fasttech offering and I've tested it against the $300 meter I use at work and it seems to be spot on.

Of course, they could both be wrong.

Agreed it's not possible to blow a fuse when measuring resistance properly.

i checked my 510 ohmmeter against a fluke low resistance meter we use where I work and found it to be reading .07 ohms high when measuring 1.5 ohm build, which may not sound like much but a .1 ohm build could be only .03 in reality.

To make matters worse most cheap meters are typically less accurate the lower the resistance being measured. I would think that your $300.00 meter is probably giving you accurate results within the 1 ohm and higher and probably good enough for .5 ohm builds but lower than that I would go with a DNA device or the new provari which are specifically designed to accurately measure sub ohm resistances.

 

[sandman97289]

So then were you testing the resistance while the coils were lit? Because checking resistance of a dead circuit doesn't blow meter fuses. Resistance is always tested with the power off.

Mistakes that result in blown meter fuses are generally the result of improperly testing the amperage draw of a live circuit, seeing as the meter is put in series with a live circuit.

For the OP, I find my 510 resistance testing box to be adequate for reasonable coils builds. Mine is a Fasttech offering and I've tested it against the $300 meter I use at work and it seems to be spot on.

Of course, they could both be wrong.

You are right, resistance is measured when the circuit is off. What I did not mention was that I try to see the amps vs. volts were for the given circuit because of the erratic resistance reading, basically just measure the resistance based off of those 2 readings instead. In the process of measuring the amps I have blown fuses.

We're getting off topic though. Quin asked if he could use a VV/VW for resistance measuring and I believe that's the way to go for resistances above 1 ohm.

 

[DaveP]

FWIW, I measured my 2.2 ohm coil on my 510 voltmeter and it read 2.22 ohms. On my Northern tools voltmeter it read 2.2 ohms after subtracting lead resistance. On my Provari it read 2.2 ohms. Provari only displays a single digit after the decimal and will round it up or down to the nearest tenth digit, so a 2.25 ohm coil might read 2.3 ohms.

IMO, we all need both. If you recoil it's a stand for hands free work, especially on rebuildable atomizers. On a Kanger or other type head that uses a center post at the bottom to hold the conductor legs, you still have to hold the body in your hand to insert the wick, but you can install the body and recoil multiple heads, checking them in the body with the 510 voltmeter as you complete each.

 

[vapdivrr]

I use both plus the mod. now if your just doing kanger heads that's one thing but building coils in general, its nice to have a multimeter as well. when im building, its nice to check the resistance of the coil before you mount it, that's when I use the multimeter. then once im happy with that resistance I then install the coil and check it on my ohm meter, finally once its ready to vape and the mod tells me the same numbers, bobs your uncle.