ohms best for istick?
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A "sweet spot" is all down to preference really. If you prefer a warmer inhale with more vapor production then you'd ideally want as low as you can go. However you need to consider voltage and ohm limitations of the device along with wicking and airflow of the atomizer.
I don't build my Kayfun below 1.2 ohms, because I use high vg juice and it doesn't wick fast enough. There are many factors to consider. The best way to find your sweet spot is to play around and see what you like.
I don't build my Kayfun below 1.2 ohms, because I use high vg juice and it doesn't wick fast enough. There are many factors to consider. The best way to find your sweet spot is to play around and see what you like.
With the power management - or lack thereof - on the Istick, quite a few people are running fairly high ohms.
Mine just runs too hot for me to be confident with.
Relegated to my backup's backup.
Relegated to my backup's backup.
I think to use the maximum 20 watts your build has to be 1.1 to 1.3 Ohm. I currently have a 1.7 ohm build in a Kayfun and the highest it will go is 17.7 watts. All that being said I am currently vaping at 6.5 watts as that is what feels right. Don't forget the Istick is overpowered and I would go solely by taste and not by what the screen says. Start at the lowest setting and move up in small increments until it tastes and performs the way you like.
Word of caution, I have had the watts accidentally change in my pocket and took a big toot at full 18 watts of power on a kayfun. It was INSTANT horrible burnt hit. If you pocket carry tap a button to make sure it's where you left it before ruining a build and your throat.
Word of caution, I have had the watts accidentally change in my pocket and took a big toot at full 18 watts of power on a kayfun. It was INSTANT horrible burnt hit. If you pocket carry tap a button to make sure it's where you left it before ruining a build and your throat.
I think to use the maximum 20 watts your build has to be 1.1 to 1.3 Ohm. I currently have a 1.7 ohm build in a Kayfun and the highest it will go is 17.7 watts. All that being said I am currently vaping at 6.5 watts as that is what feels right. Don't forget the Istick is overpowered and I would go solely by taste and not by what the screen says. Start at the lowest setting and move up in small increments until it tastes and performs the way you like.
Word of caution, I have had the watts accidentally change in my pocket and took a big toot at full 18 watts of power on a kayfun. It was INSTANT horrible burnt hit. If you pocket carry tap a button to make sure it's where you left it before ruining a build and your throat.
Word of caution, I have had the watts accidentally change in my pocket and took a big toot at full 18 watts of power on a kayfun. It was INSTANT horrible burnt hit. If you pocket carry tap a button to make sure it's where you left it before ruining a build and your throat.
Exactly where mine is. And I had such hopes for it when I got it for my vapeversary.
On my wife Istick with a protank mini 3 anything under 1.8 ohms with the Istick as low as it goes burns the juice. Got two Isticks and they are both the same. CHEERS!
I had to stick my nose into the original iStick thread so I'm going to do it here too. I think the iStick is pretty great for what it is, but here is the rub:
it does NOT down regulate. it boost the battery voltage to 5.8V and only fires at 5.8V (give or take). It uses a PWM square wave with a duty cycle that averages out to the set voltage. It does not fire at a higher power than it is set for, unless you insist on doing the math incorrectly. That said, it vapes hotter for a given setting than many other mods.
It will fire at 20 watts (indicated) with coil resistances of 1 to 1.5 ohms, and will not fire at all below 1 ohm, and it can be touchy with coils at the 1 ohm mark.
it does NOT down regulate. it boost the battery voltage to 5.8V and only fires at 5.8V (give or take). It uses a PWM square wave with a duty cycle that averages out to the set voltage. It does not fire at a higher power than it is set for, unless you insist on doing the math incorrectly. That said, it vapes hotter for a given setting than many other mods.
It will fire at 20 watts (indicated) with coil resistances of 1 to 1.5 ohms, and will not fire at all below 1 ohm, and it can be touchy with coils at the 1 ohm mark.
so needles to say - it "shows" one voltage and "fires" slightly higher, and 1.5 coils should be the "sweet spot" due to it being able to hit the full 20 watts without going any lower.
I have 3 iSticks with Lemo tanks. The sweet spot on the iStick is 1Ohm. I build my coils to 1.3ohms and it allows me to achieve the full 20 watts if I want it. I keep it around 18 watts and I am happy.
I keep 2 set ups ready incase one fails I can switch over quickly. I travel A TON so while I am traveling I need something as a back up when my primary fails. I rebuild/rewick at night when I have down time.
I keep 2 set ups ready incase one fails I can switch over quickly. I travel A TON so while I am traveling I need something as a back up when my primary fails. I rebuild/rewick at night when I have down time.
This is not quite technically accurate. The displayed voltage and the average voltage during firing are the same. The thermal mass of the coil averages the heat flux and a coil of sufficient thermal mass behaves the same on an iStick and a properly regulated mod (that outputs a stable voltage, rather than an on/off waveform).
The problem is that "coil of sufficient thermal mass" is something like a 28 or 30awg Kanthal microcoil in the 1-2 ohm range. These coils are not found in stock non-rebuildable atomizers/coil heads, those have fine wire (32awg and up) spaced coils, and these (as evidenced by the complaints of many users) respond too quickly to average the heat flux properly and appear to run "hot" despite dissipating the same amount of heat as their lower awg cousins.
I'm currently running the Fasttech M6 rbas with 1.7 ohm coils (I like the tighter draw) and am quite enjoying the vape, its thick like the nautilus mini with flavor like the kayuns. I'm waiting on the Erl mini clone as well, I didn't have much luck with the Lemo.
Sounds to me like:
1) An adapter is advisable to save threading
2) RBA tanks are not an issue due to better wicking and air flow
3) Clearo users should plan on using 2.8ohm or higher coils(available for most)
It is what it is - A Rectangular VV battery with a Screen and VW read capability.
The power side of the chip set seems to be from (2) years ago. Lava Tube type and similarities.
I have and rarely use a Young June LT for the listed reasons. Horrible at lower ohms on a full charge.
Now it sits in my collection to remind me where I was and how far I have come.
Treat every experience as a Learning tool, good or bad, to increase your knowledge.
1) An adapter is advisable to save threading
2) RBA tanks are not an issue due to better wicking and air flow
3) Clearo users should plan on using 2.8ohm or higher coils(available for most)
It is what it is - A Rectangular VV battery with a Screen and VW read capability.
The power side of the chip set seems to be from (2) years ago. Lava Tube type and similarities.
I have and rarely use a Young June LT for the listed reasons. Horrible at lower ohms on a full charge.
Now it sits in my collection to remind me where I was and how far I have come.
Treat every experience as a Learning tool, good or bad, to increase your knowledge.
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