Multimeters generally just read volts (in addition to ohms, amps, etc.). They don't care what kind/size battery it comes from. Here's one that's inexpensive and works just fine from Harbor Freight.
Ohms meter?
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Thank you Ancient and Filthy! So when I'm testing a battery, I just switch the knob to the 1.5 (top tad right) on the device from Harbor Freight let's say?
Mama I checked the linked manual for the one he listed and that would be the right setting, if the manual is the right one 
You usually want to set it to the V setting (as mentioned, that's likely A) that's a notch higher than the source you're trying to test.
On mine, anyway, I test most batteries at the 20V setting as I know all batteries will be below 20V (with one minor exception that doesn't apply here). Some meters will simply read high when going past the setting you've used, others use the dial setting only to indicate the magnitude of measurement (so 20V would measure 0-99V).
Reading high doesn't damage the meter except in exceptional circumstances that, again, won't apply here.
Mama I checked the linked manual for the one he listed and that would be the right setting, if the manual is the right one
you're right, but if you read the full description, you end up with a ma number that doesn't correlate to much of what we talk about.
my freshly charged sony measures 11.1 ma in that setting... um, ok...
setting to DCV i get 4.21 and i know that's good.
i recently bought a new multimeter..Innova 3320...$20 on Amazon. I used several of the Harbor Freight ones and they were a hassle. 9v batteries, leads wires breaking but they did the job for a few years. I went through 2 of them. THe one I have now auto nulls for resistance readings so no more subtracting it out. I have a hard time remembering to subtract that number because it takes a minute to get the other reading. 
This one take a single AA cell which is nice. Also when you do voltage reading you don't have to set the voltage range. Its auto sensing. It also takes battery reading underload. I'm happy with it.
This one take a single AA cell which is nice. Also when you do voltage reading you don't have to set the voltage range. Its auto sensing. It also takes battery reading underload. I'm happy with it.
DCV section set to 20 is what I use. I suspect the 9v/1.5v setting is to read the (milli)amperage of those 2 specific batteries, which is of little consequence in our application. We're looking for volts (left in or stored in, the battery).
I too went with the Innova 3320. What a breeze to check batteries. Now I need a bit of concise direction for testing coils (it came with a nice manual but I have a great respect for science and electricity). I understand where to plug in the test leads. It's the next step I'm curious about. How do I test a coil that is already on my Reo? Or is that where one tests all coils...brand new or not? Do I need to remove cotton?i recently bought a new multimeter..Innova 3320...$20 on Amazon. I used several of the Harbor Freight ones and they were a hassle. 9v batteries, leads wires breaking but they did the job for a few years. I went through 2 of them. THe one I have now auto nulls for resistance readings so no more subtracting it out. I have a hard time remembering to subtract that number because it takes a minute to get the other reading.
Thank you Reonauts!
You remove the top cap off the atomizer. Set the DMM to "Ohms" reading. Put the probes on the posts that hold the coil. Thats all. It doesn't matter which lead goes on which post.
IF you want to test with the cap on the atomizer you must remove the atomizer from the Reo. Put one lead in the hole of the center post thats on the bottom of the atomizer. Put the other lead in the outer threads of the center post. Once again have the meter set to "Ohms."
IF you want to test with the cap on the atomizer you must remove the atomizer from the Reo. Put one lead in the hole of the center post thats on the bottom of the atomizer. Put the other lead in the outer threads of the center post. Once again have the meter set to "Ohms."
You can also test it with the cap on and the RM2 mounted to the Reo. This will also make sure there are no shorts anywhere and will tell you the ohms as seen at the battery. Remove the battery, put one probe on the positive pin and the other on the spring plate.
oh great Filthy-Beast, you sir truly are a filthy beast... will you learn me the ways of awesomeness (share your vast knowledge of well everything REO/e-cig/Current/etc related) and will you share more stories that make me envious of you... any wild Walt stories?
No wild stories. I did have dinner with Hampton last year at Ditka's. I asked his take on Cutler, He said if they had had Cutler back in the day they would have been unstoppable for years.
The dedicated ohm meters for this will run you $20. I spend more than that on a meal. It's good insurance.
I've not picked one up simply because I use a fluke 87 DMM every day at work.
Do yourself a favor and buy the dedicated tester. All of you.
I've not picked one up simply because I use a fluke 87 DMM every day at work.
Do yourself a favor and buy the dedicated tester. All of you.
DUDE!!! When I get back can you hook me up with these people that you know? I mean... wow...
All it takes is money, you can hire these guys to come mingle with your customers during private dinners in the back room at Ditka's. I've also been to events with Urlacker, Olsen and Singletary before he was a coach. Hampton talked to the group for 60 minutes, then spent 40 minutes at each table of 6 people.
everythingyoujustsaidiwantsobadomgonlythingthatsoundsmoreappealingisseasonticketsonthe50orbeingonthesideline- Status
