Ohms
- Thread starter Bombeni
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With a 20 watt device, any of those will be fine. The lower the ohms, the warmer the vape.
Well, not all, but essentially, for our purposes, yeah. Ohms are a measure of electrical resistance. Less resistance means that the electricity can flow more freely through the wire(s) of the atomizer coil. This results in a higher amp draw from the battery and higher wattage at the coil which, in turn, produces a fuller, warmer vapor.
When using a vv or vw device it doesn't even really effect the warmth of the vape, as with wattage, it takes the ohm and the wattage you set to figure the voltage it pulls.
Which makes me wonder just how high in wattage can a 1.8 ohm coil take before it's fried? I see on here where many take wattage up to 20-25 watts or higher, so it just makes me wonder if they're doing the high wattage on rebuildables and if not, what is the real satisfaction one gets from vaping at high watts, since it doesn't seem to effect the warmth?
That mod (Istick20) runs hot at the low end. I'd suggest nothing lower than 1.8 or you may not be able to go to a low enough setting for a good vape.
a lot depends on what the coil is on, like a 1.8 ohm 306 atty can not take the same wattage as a 1.8 ohm on an rda with full open air draw as the air helps cool the coil so it is not getting as hot as the 306 even at much higher wattage
Hmmm, not sure what a 306 atty is...but i think my MVP is a 510 and i'm vaping a 1.8. So a 1.8 on a MVP and/or iStick can be taken up higher in wattage IF it has the airflow open?
I apologize for the questions, i just want to make sure on what is safe and not safe with my MVP 2.0. It uses 1.6 or 1.8 and i stay with the 1.8's...but have experienced flooding and coils burning out in a few days of purchasing them, so i'm wondering now if i've been taking my volts/watts too high? If i use volts, i stay around 4.5, but if i switch to wattage...the highest i take it is around 10 watts. And i keep my airflow on my nautilus mini on the largest airflow mostly.
Ok, a 306 is an atomizer that you do not rebuild, you drip a few drops on the coil vape, repeat. It is commonly used with a drip shield and even tho 306 works on 510 threads.
Now you have not said what the tank is you are using but as it has heads I am going to say you are taking it too high. So I am gonna suggest you back it down some, even cotton wicking should last you a couple days and silica wicking you should be able to get at least a week per coil.
Mea culpa, Bombeni! The running hot is the Istick 20, and in glancing back, you said you're using the Itaste 20. It doesn't run hot, but is very accurate.
But I'd still go no lower than 1.8, so you do have room to adjust both up and down, to taste.
Jovey, you may be drawing too hard, which can cause excess liquid to be drawn onto the coil, causing your flooding. And coil life is all over the park. Some flavors will gunk a coil very quickly, especially the darker ones. And "a few days" isn't really significant since we all vape different amounts. But it doesn't seem like you're setting anything high enough to "burn out" a coil. The MVP, in all it's versions, is a fine device, well made and lots of user protections built in.
But I'd still go no lower than 1.8, so you do have room to adjust both up and down, to taste.
Jovey, you may be drawing too hard, which can cause excess liquid to be drawn onto the coil, causing your flooding. And coil life is all over the park. Some flavors will gunk a coil very quickly, especially the darker ones. And "a few days" isn't really significant since we all vape different amounts. But it doesn't seem like you're setting anything high enough to "burn out" a coil. The MVP, in all it's versions, is a fine device, well made and lots of user protections built in.
IM not well attuned to wattage, voltage etc. only been vaping about six weeks. I can see now why some ppl have 20 vape mods, trying to find the best vape. I have about 8 tanks that are fried, was about to go buy some cigs last night then finally got one tank to work. I have two Itaste now, an 11 watt and a 20. Problems w both. I bought a nautilus tank a few days ago at a b & m and it won't work on one of them but working half azzed on the other. I need to spend the money on a good unit. Just don't know which yet. I'm willing to go up to $150. I have to leave now but if there's any recommendations on good mods at that price feel free to share.
being a new vaper I would highly suggest something like the istick 30, the 30 doesn't have the same issues as the 20, is very user friendly, and you can even lock the wattage once set so you don't change it without meaning to. It also is cheap to buy.
On that set up if I had to pick one I would pick the 1.8Ω.
If they were out then 2.1Ω.
If they were out then 2.1Ω.
Hi Bombeni.
The batteries you have are generally considered to be pretty accurate and well made devices, and replacing them with more won't solve your problems with the toppers. It would be a shame to spend big bucks on a new mod to have the same problems.
That said, many of the Innokin line have slightly tall threads, so sometimes there are issues with the topper making a good connection. Overtightening will make it worse, either pushing the center pin of the battery down, the mating pin on the topper up, or both.
To address the battery end, first turn it off. Then, using a tiny screwdriver, straightened paper clip, or similar, put it beside the pin and "rock" gently from several points around the circumference. If you move it up 1 mm you'll probably make a connection.
Topper... There's a small (usually white) grommet around the bottom pin. A little pinch on that and a gentle tug on the pin to ease it out 1mm or less is sufficient. Pull too far and the pin will come out. At that point, it's either learn how to rebuild them, or pop in a new on.
You say you have several tanks that are "fried." Uh.... The coil / head inside is a replaceable item, and the length of service life depends on many variables. But the DO gunk up and the vape goes away. When that happens, a new (or rebuilt) coil generally puts it all back in good order. You don't specify what particular tanks you're using, so can't be more specific... While there has been some attrition over the couple + years I've been a vaper, I still have a couple of original Kanger Protanks that still work fine - and rebuild all my heads for clearo types. If you're not using a tank cracking juice, or use only glass clearos, other than dropping and breaking them the tank should last a long time. The heads, not so much!
Some report lengthy times for a head. Some short. But if you notice the vape going away, getting weak, then it's just time for a new head.
Thanks PV I'll see if I can adjust the batteries. Idk why innokin sells them w an iclear. I've been told iclears aren't able to meet the wattage of these batteries. I've seen some of them blaze fire so I know they're shot. I ordered two nautilus mini pro tanks. I hope they work they weren't cheap. I bought a nautilus tank at a store it's stainless w glass windows, it only works on one. After I try these mini pros and that doesn't work I have to try something else. If I'm going to do this I need something that works.
Bombeni, you should be able to get all your tanks working again if you want to. DavidOck gives good advice above. Sometimes there can be problems, but it doesn't mean you have to toss the whole thing, and buy tank after tank. If you could give a little more detail than the tank is fried or works half-assed, it might be easier to help you figure out what's going wrong. You should definitely not be seeing them "blaze fire"! Not sure what's going on with that.
If a tank works on one battery and not another, it's usually a sign that the centre post in the battery got pushed down too far. That can happen from over-tightening the tank, especially if one tank, or your charger, is a bit longer than another. Try what David says to (gently!) adjust the battery post.
After that, as he says, the coils in the tanks are replaceable. Just pop a new one in and you should be good to go. It could be that 20 watts is too much for those tanks, but I never go above 10, so maybe someone else can comment on that.
If a tank works on one battery and not another, it's usually a sign that the centre post in the battery got pushed down too far. That can happen from over-tightening the tank, especially if one tank, or your charger, is a bit longer than another. Try what David says to (gently!) adjust the battery post.
After that, as he says, the coils in the tanks are replaceable. Just pop a new one in and you should be good to go. It could be that 20 watts is too much for those tanks, but I never go above 10, so maybe someone else can comment on that.
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