I know i already said it but i gotta say it again, I really like this, awesome mod
"OK, UNCLE" . .. . gave up and put a CIRCUIT BOARD in my REO too!
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I also found it to be almost impossible to get a good pic of these things. Don't know why. Kept throwing out shots that normally turn out fine. Best I got was a 3/4 frontal w/ no flash. Kinda like Xobe's 2nd hammertone pic.
ADDIT: were you to shoot one like that, I'm sure it would be dead even, D.
ADDIT: were you to shoot one like that, I'm sure it would be dead even, D.
my total lack of photography skills do them no justice at all whatsoever. sorry...
The circuit board I had is all used up. If one were to fall out of the sky . . . . . there would be something to discuss. Generally speaking, I have an idea for something, make a few, and that's that. I'm always open to discussion; but that discussion is heavily weighted by my fickle, short lived and selective interests. 
but that discussion is heavily weighted by my fickle, short lived and selective interests.
The circuit board I had is all used up. If one were to fall out of the sky . . . . . there would be something to discuss. Generally speaking, I have an idea for something, make a few, and that's that. I'm always open to discussion; but that discussion is heavily weighted by my fickle, short lived and selective interests.
No worries pdib, I was just razzin'. I am happy to admire those you already made!
The circuit board I had is all used up. If one were to fall out of the sky . . . . . there would be something to discuss. Generally speaking, I have an idea for something, make a few, and that's that. I'm always open to discussion; but that discussion is heavily weighted by my fickle, short lived and selective interests.
Then I demand step by step instructions on you how you did it. I have a plethora (indeed a veritible cornacopia) of unused, obselete, and generally unwanted circuitry.
At least I did...not any more. Suddenly, it has a use.
Well now, let's see. I traced out the initial shape with a sharpie and a door and cut it out with sliding miter saw and or table saw. Filed the edges smooth and removed circuitry burrs. Cut out squonk hole with stationary scroll saw. Final shaping there with a series of round and flat files. I started the rabbet (track edges) by filing a strong chamfer along those edges. The face edge of the chamfer was a tiny bit further inboard than the projected edge of the rabbet. Then I scored the depth of the rabbet - or thickness of the remaining material - with a marking gauge. At this point I started filing; but after a few doors, I took the time to set up the table saw with a couple of sacrificial fences (one vertical on the fence and one flat with the blade coming up through it) and did the bulk of the rabbet there. The chamfer was critical for tablesaw rabbetting; because, if the blade were to touch the face of the circuit board, it would tear loose the circuitry and destroy the face. (←this, I know . . . . snicker) The first few doors, I went straight to filing in the rabbet. The chamfer, in this instance, was just to remove a bunch of material fast. Even with the tablesaw versions, I filed it in on the last few thousandths to fit. For filing, I clamped a straight edge to the face of the door, and used it as a guide for the files. You want the remaining material getting just a snickerdoodle under 1mm before you start checking for fit. Once I had my edges shaped, clean and eased, I painted them with CA to hide tool marks, and give the material a transparency and luster. (← this was after final fitting) The magnet holes were done on the drill press, with a depth stop. I used a 5/32" bit. (It was a normal tip, leaving just a smashendackery of material on the face.) The 5/32 in the circuitboard left a hole so tight, that I would recommend pressing the magnets in dry. No glue, as even a trace of thin CA made it almost impossible to force the magnets in. One could try a 4mm bit instead, and glue the magnet in. (I believe the magnets are 1mm x 4mm. Dizzie measured one for me, and said he got 1.1 x 4.1mm . . . they are centered at 10mm in and 2.5mm down on the door) But a dry press-fit on the 5/32 seems supertight, and will pro'ly never come back out. Final fitting was just trial and error. I'd find areas of the length of the rabbet that seemed tight by sliding the door in until it got sticky. Then I would lay the door down on something (in my case a pink pearl eraser), and gently bend it so that the "proud" area was at the top of the arch, and file a bit there with my finest file. Sometimes, the circuitry on the backside would create some binding, so I would run a very fine file flat on areas of the back that got sassy.
What else . . . . . . magnet insertion . . . lay the loose magnets on the correlating magnets in the REO body and mark what will be the buried face so you know which orientation you need for pressing them in.
oh . . .. you know what else too . . .. before inserting the magnets, I used a grey/green alcohol based art pen to make the drilled out area translucent again (to hide the opacity created by the machining on plastic). Something else would probably work, if you don't have one of those. Just don't constrict the hole by using CA, or something.
Anyway, that's how I did it, CM.
What else . . . . . . magnet insertion . . . lay the loose magnets on the correlating magnets in the REO body and mark what will be the buried face so you know which orientation you need for pressing them in.
oh . . .. you know what else too . . .. before inserting the magnets, I used a grey/green alcohol based art pen to make the drilled out area translucent again (to hide the opacity created by the machining on plastic). Something else would probably work, if you don't have one of those. Just don't constrict the hole by using CA, or something.
Anyway, that's how I did it, CM.
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Thanks, Dibby...much appreciated!
Got some multi-colored circuit boards that I've been drooling over. I'll let ya know how they turn out (verbosely and with many pictures).
S!
Got some multi-colored circuit boards that I've been drooling over. I'll let ya know how they turn out (verbosely and with many pictures).
S!
That sounds cool! I'd love to see some colors on this stuff. What all colors you got? you got enough you'd consider swapping me a blank for something?
Pshaw...If I have extra I'll just give 'em to ya. I have a LOT of old electronics.
Tan and gray (although the gray may be painted on...dunno why they'd do that) and I know I have some black and red from formerly high-end graphics cards but I haven't unearthed them yet. Hopefully they're not buried too deep.
Tan and gray (although the gray may be painted on...dunno why they'd do that) and I know I have some black and red from formerly high-end graphics cards but I haven't unearthed them yet. Hopefully they're not buried too deep.
Well now, let's see. I traced out the initial shape with a sharpie and a door and cut it out with sliding miter saw and or table saw. Filed the edges smooth and removed circuitry burrs. Cut out squonk hole with stationary scroll saw. Final shaping there with a series of round and flat files. I started the rabbet (track edges) by filing a strong chamfer along those edges. The face edge of the chamfer was a tiny bit further inboard than the projected edge of the rabbet. Then I scored the depth of the rabbet - or thickness of the remaining material - with a marking gauge. At this point I started filing; but after a few doors, I took the time to set up the table saw with a couple of sacrificial fences (one vertical on the fence and one flat with the blade coming up through it) and did the bulk of the rabbet there. The chamfer was critical for tablesaw rabbetting; because, if the blade were to touch the face of the circuit board, it would tear loose the circuitry and destroy the face. (←this, I know . . . . snicker) The first few doors, I went straight to filing in the rabbet. The chamfer, in this instance, was just to remove a bunch of material fast. Even with the tablesaw versions, I filed it in on the last few thousandths to fit. For filing, I clamped a straight edge to the face of the door, and used it as a guide for the files. You want the remaining material getting just a snickerdoodle under 1mm before you start checking for fit. Once I had my edges shaped, clean and eased, I painted them with CA to hide tool marks, and give the material a transparency and luster. (← this was after final fitting) The magnet holes were done on the drill press, with a depth stop. I used a 5/32" bit. (It was a normal tip, leaving just a smashendackery of material on the face.) The 5/32 in the circuitboard left a hole so tight, that I would recommend pressing the magnets in dry. No glue, as even a trace of thin CA made it almost impossible to force the magnets in. One could try a 4mm bit instead, and glue the magnet in. (I believe the magnets are 1mm x 4mm. Dizzie measured one for me, and said he got 1.1 x 4.1mm . . . they are centered at 10mm in and 2.5mm down on the door) But a dry press-fit on the 5/32 seems supertight, and will pro'ly never come back out. Final fitting was just trial and error. I'd find areas of the length of the rabbet that seemed tight by sliding the door in until it got sticky. Then I would lay the door down on something (in my case a pink pearl eraser), and gently bend it so that the "proud" area was at the top of the arch, and file a bit there with my finest file. Sometimes, the circuitry on the backside would create some binding, so I would run a very fine file flat on areas of the back that got sassy.
What else . . . . . . magnet insertion . . . lay the loose magnets on the correlating magnets in the REO body and mark what will be the buried face so you know which orientation you need for pressing them in.
oh . . .. you know what else too . . .. before inserting the magnets, I used a grey/green alcohol based art pen to make the drilled out area translucent again (to hide the opacity created by the machining on plastic). Something else would probably work, if you don't have one of those. Just don't constrict the hole by using CA, or something.
Anyway, that's how I did it, CM.
Now that's what you call a thorough explanation. Great job....the doors too. What sounds like a lot of work to me is probably just play for you.
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