one ego shorts with atomizer, but a different battery works.

[veganvap]

I have
1300mah vision spinner eGO-type VV
and a non-VV PT 650mah standard eGo

I built my first coils. I don't have a mutlimeter yet, so I searched and found that 4/5 wraps should give me my target ohms, so I did that.

To test the coil, I put it on my 650mah just in case it were to break the 1300mah. Side question: could a coil be build wrong that it kills the battery? And does juice flooding into the ego battery cause problems? They seem to work fine flooded.

I put my coil on the 650mah, but it won't light up as if it's shorting and protecting itself. The same 650mah works fine on stock-built coils (both a worn out 2.5 and a worn out 1.8 ohm). I checked my coils and they seem to be build perfectly, no coils are even touching sides. I pre-burned the A1-kanthal with a lighter. I cut back the + and - ends of the kanthal as flush as possible (they stick out more on the stock pre-made ones that the 650 works with). I amde several more coils and get the same result: the 650 won't light up but they work great on my 1300mah.

The ego threads and inside 510 threads and battery output 'pin/post/nub' of these two batteries look identical (of course they should), except that the battery output 'pin/post/nub' on the 650mah is about the thickness of a fingernail or two larger in diamater. I thought maybe the Standard 3.7-ish V Ego that's not working has a built in protector to not let it work on coils too high in ohms (more than about 1.8i) but it worked on the 2.5 stock-built one (which was well used though). So I made a 32 gauge kanthal coil and only wrapped it three time, but it still didn't work.

Thanks in advance.

Side note, when testing the 650 with the worn-out stock-built coils, I couldn't get them to pop when trying. I held the battery on as they glew for like 20 seconds untill the battery eventually turns iteself off, then repeated immediately after. I did like six 20 second consecutive burns untill it got so hot I didn't want to melt the battery and I think the coil's rubber grounding grommet was melting.

 

[Switched]

RBAs are meant to be vaped on IMR batteries.

 

[Thompson]

I've got an eGo-T PT that won't touch anything I wrap, it just blinks 3 times and won't fire until I unscrew the atty. This is regardless of my Ohms, even if I try to aim above 2.

But then I take them and put it on either my 650 or 1000 Twist and they fire fine.

It seems the newer ones are more capable of handing a good bit of amperage, or they've been able to raise the ohm level where the board thinks there is a short.

 

[veganvap]

ok, thanks. I guess, IOW, it's got a built-in protector, and I have to make the ohms a certain range for it to work. I'll figure that out when I get my multimeter.
Any insight about the rest about not being able to pop the coil on purpose or a flooded 510 well on the battery?

 

[veganvap]

now I'm more confused. The battery works with a stock-built 2.8 vivi nova head (and 1.8 and 2.4).

I have 32 gauge a1 kanthal, but no multimeter. I read "A typical 4/5 wrap* with 32 gauge Kanthal will generally be around 1.8 ohms". The battery didn't work for that.

Then I tried only 2 or 3 wraps thinking that would make a lower ohm coil, but later read it's the opposite, so I made:
10 wrap coil : didn't work but worked on VV 1300mah
8 wrap : same as 10 wrap
6 wrap: same result
12 wrap: same result.

?
If the 1.5 stock built kanger T3 heads and 2.8 stock-build vivi nova head works on the battery, it's not like there's such a small window of ohm that will work on this battery. I think I covered all ranges, but still have no idea why it won't work.

 

[adeline]

I cut back the + and - ends of the kanthal as flush as possible (they stick out more on the stock pre-made ones that the 650 works with).

Whatever that means, it doesn't sound right. What kind of RBA is this?

Also, this:

Side note, when testing the 650 with the worn-out stock-built coils, I couldn't get them to pop when trying. I held the battery on as they glew for like 20 seconds untill the battery eventually turns iteself off, then repeated immediately after. I did like six 20 second consecutive burns untill it got so hot I didn't want to melt the battery and I think the coil's rubber grounding grommet was melting.

This sounds like a really terrible thing to do, and if the rubber grommet is melted or warped or burned through in any way, you've probably damaged it to the point it's shorting out.

You could very easily have a short on your coil. If so, you're lucky you didn't fry the battery.

Lesson learned?

Check your RBA for shorts before you connect it to a battery.

Don't use a pre-made coil without testing the resistance, especially as a new rebuilder.

You're really just asking for trouble.

If you have a rubber-grommet type RBA, check to see if your wires are touching the walls before they reach the rubber grommet.

Too many variables since you don't even know if your coil is shorted.

 

[veganvap]

^It's a Kanger t3 head.
"I cut back the + and - ends of the kanthal as flush as possible" I just meant that I trimmed the excess kanthal inside the ego threads so they're weren't sticking out to touch the inside of the ego threading or battery and cause a short. + is positive and - is the ground ends of the kanthal.

^The only thing I could have lost by purposly trying to pop the coil was the rubber grommet melting. It didn't melt but is harder to insert now. I have more spare heads than I need (1 if I don't loose any parts) because I build my own but originally bought a 5 packs not knowing I'd end up building them.

^There aparently were no shorts because the coils all worked fine on my other battery, the variable volt. I built them perfectly.

^Thanks anyway.

 

[veganvap]

All I can think is that this older (3/4 years) battery doesn't work with A-1 Kanthal. ?

With all the different # of wraps I tried, I must have gotten within the ohm range of the factory-built kanger and vivi nova heads that work with it (1.5-2.8). I tried a tiny loop with no wick, just about one or two wraps, but that didn't work either.

I got it to work for like 1 second by holding down the button while slowly screwing on the tank. It worked in a certain spot for a second but not again. I don't know how many # of wraps that coil was, but it just blinks 3 times and doesn't work anyway.

 

[NancyR]

The less wraps the lower the ohms, not sure where you read it was the other way around as it isn't, the ohms have to do with the size of the wire vers the amount of wire used, more wire means more resistance which is higher ohms. Which is why the thickness of the wick also plays a part, thicker wicks take more wire per wrap.

But please be careful, ego batteries are not safe to use with rebuildables. While I understand the Kanger is not a genny, but you are still risking shorts that ego's can not handle.

 

[veganvap]

I read less wraps = higher ohms and thought it was wrong, but that person had a lot of posts, so I believed it. Either way, I tried everything from a tiny 1 wrap loop up to 13 wraps and everything in between and nothing worked. The ego still works fine with stock factory-built kanger T3 heads, so again all I can think is that this older (3/4 years) battery doesn't work with A-1 Kanthal. ?

A mod locked my two other threads leading to this one from different categories to get more help because I still don't know what the problem is.

Someone said it can't be the kanthal vs if the factory made ones aren't kanthal (nicrom etc).

They also said it could be the 'top cap' that joins into the rest of the air shaft that snaps into the coil after it's built is shorting out the coil, but I don't even put that piece on.

Anyone have an answer?

Not being able to pop a coil under all that stress kind of makes me mad because I usually hit my Vision Spinner VV untill it auto-shuts off in about 5 seconds, and I know my wicks still wet and not about to give a dry hit and I want more vaper per hit, so it's not helping, and it does this stupid 3 flash light show that takes some time untill I can re-press the button during the same hit.

 

[veganvap]

"If you have a rubber-grommet type RBA, check to see if your wires are touching the walls before they reach the rubber grommet."
I did. I did everything perfect, all I can think is that the 3-or-so year old 650mah PT ego 3.7volt battery doesn't work with A-1 kanthal.
?

 

[crxess]

No such thing.
Battery can/will shut down to protect itself from a short. Try it to many times and you may permanently damage the battery.
1)Never build and try a coil without testing it first. The first thing you need to learn is you cannot be 100% sure you did anything right without proper testing.
2)Possibly your problem. No matter how many times you build/rebuild the coils. The battery will never fire the coil if the center pin is not making proper contact.
Proper contact is achieved by having the center pin slightly lower than the outer threading - NOT by tightening down harder.
If the Center pin is to high you can cause a short when tightening and that will shut the battery down. Remove the tank and install a working T3/CE or what ever and it fires.

Been there, done that - 3 different Tanks - and all worked on my Y.J.Tube but not on the ego's until reworked.
Later

 

[veganvap]

I knew it, it was the Kanthal that I purchased that caused the problem. I bought it here from Tankecigs.com
http://www.tankecigs.com/Kanthal-A-1-Wire-32-Gauge-008-p/ka1.htm

I got a $400 high-end Multimeter
I built a 2.0ohm coil = didn't work.
I checked the ohms of the factoy-built 2.8 vivi nova that works on the battery I'm talking about. It reads 2.6 on the meter, so the battery can handle 2.6ohm.
I built a 1.7 = it worked for 2 seconds then the battery turned off and flashed. I screwed the tank on more and it just flashed. I saw that all connections were perfect, nothing was touching the inside of the head, made the tank's + pin stick out more, etc, but it just flashed.

I built a 1.6ohm = got it to light up and pop the coil when I found a sweet spot during screwing on the tank, but the coil wasn't touching the sides or anything, it just popped.

I made a 1.4ohm = got it to light up for a second while finding a spot during screwing it on, but that was it, and it just flashed.

All the coils I made worked fine with a 1300mah vision spinner that gives me no problems.

These^ were all T3 heads. Next, I tried vivi nova rebuilds:
I took the wire out of a factory-built vivi nova head and made a 1.8ohm T3 coil with it = IT WORKED PERFECTLY. It must be the wire I bought from tankecigs.com

I put a lighter to the wire I bought before building with it and also didn't do that, but it doesn't work either way with this battery.

I built a 2.8 vivi nova head with the kanthal I bought from tankecig = same thing as before, it only works on the 1300mah vision spinner.

Maybe tankecig sent me banjo string or something. I'm gonna link all these threads to them and see if they send a free, better spool, and if they don't, I'll post everywhere that they're theives and shady businessmen. Or is the battery the problem? The batterie's only about 2 years old though, again, it's a 650mah standard 3.7V Passthough non-variable volt eGo. It works fine with coils not made with the wire tankecigs.com sent me.

 

[crxess]

2 year old battery is probably nearing EOL. Internal short charge storage and fast drain. Higher ohm coils will last a bit but lower ohms cause Fast drain. Probably tripping the protect circuitry.

 

[veganvap]

it's about 2 years old, but barely used. The factor is that it works fine with coils made from wire besides what I bought. I don't really care about the battery, just hoping someone can explain.

Al I can think of is that since A-1 kanthal (which isn't working on the battery) is the more expensive one and has a different composition compared to D and maybe nichrome which Kanger and Vivi etc likely make their factory coils with to save money. I guess the eGO was built differently about 2 years ago (maybe 2.5 years ago this ego was made) and just doesn't work with A-1 wire. Aparently no-one else has heard of this problem because most people who rebuilt with eGOs weren't doing so about 2 years ago because the EGo clearomizers weren't at all rebuildable, and if they were, they'd have to be using A-1 to have the same problem, which not everyone uses. Aparently no-one still has 2-year old eGos beacuse unlike this one, they were used enough to reach end of lifespan and be recycled. The battery could also be a knockoff adding to how 'egos might have been built differently 2 years ago', but I doubt it since it was bought in-store from a large scale successful vendor.

 

[classwife]

Moved to Rebuildable Atomizer Systems from Battery Issues

 

[corruption42]

Resistance wire is resistance wire. The battery can't tell the difference from Kanthal A/A-1/D/Nichrome 60/80 from a hunk of stainless steel. The only thing it can tell is, "is this drawing in a way that may damage me? Yes? Shut off."

Simply put -- you are getting a short somewhere. Whether you've shorted out your battery, your clearomizer, your rebuildable head -- you have a short somewhere. The 3 blinks on the battery means that the battery will not fire because it detects a short in the circuit. There's nothing more to understand; the vendor that sold you the Kanthal are not thieves; there is no special trick going on here thats preventing you from firing these -- its exactly what everyone else has already told you. There is a short in the battery, and continuing to test fire these coils where they're clearly shorting out is putting yourself at risk.

Figure out where your short is and your problem will go away.

 

[veganvap]

^I wish it were that simple, but I made so many different ohm coils that were perfect that didn't work but should have. I probably built 30 coils in few days, they're not hard to build perfectly, especially with no wicking material. As soon as I made a coil from wire besides the A1 I bought, it worked fine. All factory-made coils work fine. The coils I made work fine on my new 1300mah vision spinner.