overheating rx200

[ian.c]

hi folks new to this forum stuff but here goes ive been vaping for three years i just got rx200 which i bought to save me having to keep replcing batteries 3-4 times a day in other mods.
im a chain vaper on low settings not a cloud chaser.
i have been using the rx200 with an aspsire nautilus mini with 2.1 or 1.8 coils and a protank 1 tank with 2.5 coils at 3.5 - 3.8volts set at 5 - 6 watts and 3 x efest 3000-25amp bats and this mod gets warm after about 1 hour and just continues to get hotter and hotter until it hits the temp cut-out which is reportedly around 70 degrees acording to the info. its the board and the body that is heating up.
to my surprise the batteries are not heating up and remain cool. i know efest batteries have a bad rep but i use them all the time and had no problems. and checking the voltages of the 3 bats with the built in voltage balance checker on the mod they stay well balanced unusage and state of discharge.
i use the same tanks and batteries at the same settings on an inikon mvp, inikon vtr, oniyo 30wat box mod , smy 35wat box mod and even an old lavatube v2 and have never had any of these heat up above normal hand temp.
the only saving grace with this mod is that it does cut-out when it gets hot and wonder if most of the people who buy these mods are using the higher wattages have picked up on this possible fault with this mod under constant heavy use at low settings as most cloud chasers would only be using if for short bursts of time.
i would like to know if anyone else has this problem.

 

[Vesuvius]

There is another discussion going about that here also. Might be some answers there..

RX200 hot

 

[Bunnykiller]

once you match up a set of batteries for a multiple battery mod, its not advisable to use them elsewhere...
as far as the mod heating up and not the batteries... sounds like something is amiss.
the 70 degrees, is that C or F?

 

[ian.c]

thanks for the reply
the manual states 70c and the "device to hot "message comes up on screen which does appear

 

[ian.c]

There is another discussion going about that here also. Might be some answers there..

RX200 hot

i have read some messages about hot rx200 but all these seem to be more with high wattage settings and sub ohm coil settings or missmached batteries. i do vape constantly at low settings for sometimes 3-4 hours but none of my other mods overheat to the extent that this one does.

 

[suprtrkr]

By me. Mine don't do that. Check that link.

 

[ian.c]

thanks to rabbit slayer for the tip :
Looks like the RX200 has the same feature as the Istick50W...
Turn it off, then 5 quick clicks, almost no pause, and 5 more clicks shows the chip temp
this tip is not mentioned in the manual, but it works and at least ill be able to calibrate my usage along with the chip temp and keep a close eye on it.

 

[cruizydude]

I came home from fishing , took the aspire batteries from the d4 charger...put them into my rx200...screwed on the uwell crown and at 50 watts on the 3rd puff the rx200 screen said atomizer low so i screwed on the herakles plus at the same 50 watts....as i fired it the rx 200 said device too hot.....the tank was cold ! On the next fire the screen went dead and the device stopped working....i have only had this device for 7 days....very disapointing.

 

[Completely Average]

I have heard of this happening with the TFV4 before. The problem with the TFV4 is that the RX200 has a very short 510 connector and the long post of the TFV4 crushes the pin. Perhaps either your Nautilus or Protank is doing the same thing.

Wismec has said that the atomizer needs to have a threaded post no longer than 4.5mm. I've just checked my Nautilus and it's threaded post is 4mm. The center pin sticks out farther but it's also spring loaded, so it shouldn't cause a problem. Check the length of the threaded post on your Protank. If it's longer than 4.5mm then that's probably what caused the problem. If it is then you can try returning it to where you bought it, but if they won't take it back then you will probably have to fix it yourself. If shouldn't be too hard to remove the battery cage to get to the 510 connector, remove it, and install a new one with a deeper socket and better spring loaded pin, provided you can handle a little basic soldering.


There is another possibility. According to testing Efest recently switched their supposed 3000mAh 35A batteries (which were really just 20A batteries) out for 10A batteries. If yours are the 10A batteries then the reason it may be overheating could be because the batteries are being overloaded. I would test the mod using some far better batteries than the Efest ones if you can. In fact, I would consider the Efest ones to be unsafe to use unless you have the means to test them and can prove that they are the older 20A batteries. If you cannot properly test the Efest batteries then I would highly recommend replacing them immediately. If they're the 10A batteries then they are not safe to use in this mod at all.

 

[cruizydude]

I have read about the thread length and Wismecs neglecting this warranty issue. If i just have to replace the 510 connector that is no problem for me to do.
Ok so thanks for the reply.......are you saying that my "aspire 18650 super high discharge 40A " batteries are efest wrapped with aspire ????? I have not tested these batteries but ill have to look into it.

 

[Completely Average]

No, that was all directed towards ian.c.

No idea what's wrong with yours, but if you remove the atomizer so nothing is attached, remove and reinstall the batteries, if it won't turn on and give you a display then it's probably fried and you need to return in. Your problem doesn't sound like a problem with the 510 pin and the Crown and Herakles shouldn't be causing any problems. It's unlikely that both atomizers would have a short at the same time, so it sounds like a manufacturing defect.

Since the problem doesn't seem related to 510 connector length you shouldn't have any problems either exchanging it where you bought it or using the Wismec warranty.


Two things to check though...

1. Is your firmware updated to the latest version (3.0)? You can check by quickly pressing the fire button 20 times. That will show you the firmware version, assuming you can get any display at all.

2. With the atomizer removed, check and clean the 510 connector. It's possible that a piece of dirt or metal is in there causing a short.

HOPEFULLY the mod has just gone into a protect mode which is why you don't get a display. But if removing the atomizer and batteries, and then reinstalling the batteries doesn't reset the mod then it's probably toast. If you do get a display, check the firmware and clean the 510 connector. Then fire it without an atomizer. If it doesn't give you a "No Atomizer" warning and instead gives the same "Atomizer Low" then there is a short in the mod.

 

[cruizydude]

ok sorry.......seems its fried and it did have the 3.0 firmware. Ill return it. Thanks for your help.

 

[ian.c]

I have heard of this happening with the TFV4 before. The problem with the TFV4 is that the RX200 has a very short 510 connector and the long post of the TFV4 crushes the pin. Perhaps either your Nautilus or Protank is doing the same thing.

Wismec has said that the atomizer needs to have a threaded post no longer than 4.5mm. I've just checked my Nautilus and it's threaded post is 4mm. The center pin sticks out farther but it's also spring loaded, so it shouldn't cause a problem. Check the length of the threaded post on your Protank. If it's longer than 4.5mm then that's probably what caused the problem. If it is then you can try returning it to where you bought it, but if they won't take it back then you will probably have to fix it yourself. If shouldn't be too hard to remove the battery cage to get to the 510 connector, remove it, and install a new one with a deeper socket and better spring loaded pin, provided you can handle a little basic soldering.


There is another possibility. According to testing Efest recently switched their supposed 3000mAh 35A batteries (which were really just 20A batteries) out for 10A batteries. If yours are the 10A batteries then the reason it may be overheating could be because the batteries are being overloaded. I would test the mod using some far better batteries than the Efest ones if you can. In fact, I would consider the Efest ones to be unsafe to use unless you have the means to test them and can prove that they are the older 20A batteries. If you cannot properly test the Efest batteries then I would highly recommend replacing them immediately. If they're the 10A batteries then they are not safe to use in this mod at all.

thanks for the advice ill try with another make of batts