P16 and battery fit

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jivefly

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With my P16 I've noticed that one of the rubber seals used for spacing the battery at the button end makes the battery a little too loose, as it clunks around inside of the device, and the other seal makes it a little too tight, as I have to somewhat crank down on the top cap to get it closed completely. My question is, will this ruin the threads? And, is it better for the battery to be somewhat loose with one seal, or is it better to crank down on it with the other seal? I may use my heating iron and ever so lightly press down on the bigger seal to get some of the thickness out of it.

Thanks in advance.
 

Vaporologist

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I prefer a slight crank-it-down option since I don't like for the battery to be loose and rattle. I feel some resistance from the rubber washer when close to the end of screwing on the adapter, anywhere from a full to a half final turn. That pressure and resistance also helps against the adapter unscrewing easily by accident.

Edit: But you shouldn't have to crank it down too much since too much pressure could slightly dent the bottom plate of your battery. Btw, are use using the AW IMR battery (red) or the AW protected 16340 (black)? I believe that the protected one is a hair longer than the IMR and that will make some difference.
 
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jivefly

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Yeah, I prefer it to be solid in there as well. As an example, when I first put the battery in, there was about 1/8" gap left to screw in when I started getting counter pressure from the battery. As I've cranked down on it a few times now switching batteries, I've noticed that the pressure has been less and less. I've checked the batteries and they don't show any damage. They do, however, become stuck somehow in the rubber seal and won't come out unless I push them out with the button. I think this is due to cranking the battery against the seal and the seal compressing out against the inside of the mod and the battery end pushing inside of the seal.

Edit: I'm using the black AW protected.
 
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Vaporologist

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I'm using the red IMRs in my P16 but I have tried it with the AW protected one. There is definitely less "cranking" required with IMRs. And same her, when replacing the battery, I also need to push it out by pressing the button. I don't see anything wrong with that and I don't think you have anything to worry about. Btw, I love your pics of your P16!
 

pAth77

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I had a problem with the IMRs being a bit loose. As Vaporologist said, the red IMRs are a tad shorter than the black protected AWs. David's recommendations worked well to solve this. With the protected battery, use the thicker (0.100) o-ring. With the IMR, use two of the thinner (0.070) o-rings. I used the eraser end of a pencil to seat the two o-rings down as far as I could. The top cap may be a bit tougher to screw on, but it shouldn't be too tight and the battery should still be able to slide in and out easily.
 

atavanhalen

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Yeah, I prefer it to be solid in there as well. As an example, when I first put the battery in, there was about 1/8" gap left to screw in when I started getting counter pressure from the battery. As I've cranked down on it a few times now switching batteries, I've noticed that the pressure has been less and less. I've checked the batteries and they don't show any damage. They do, however, become stuck somehow in the rubber seal and won't come out unless I push them out with the button. I think this is due to cranking the battery against the seal and the seal compressing out against the inside of the mod and the battery end pushing inside of the seal.

Edit: I'm using the black AW protected.

I think its better to have it tight. I get the battery stuck on the oring as well with my p10 and p16 but like you said, after you open the top cap you can just press the bottom button and it comes right out. I do not think that the sticking battery is causing any kind of damage or problems so I would continue to do it the way you are doin it.
 

jivefly

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Btw, anyone else want to bug David about making SS end caps to match the P16 that would be usable in a CE2 map-tank style mod? It would basically be the top cap, without threads, a place to put a seal, and with the same diameter atty-sized hole all the way through. I'd like to use some polycarbonate tubing and SS end caps to make a mod like this, but I would want them to match the P16.
 

forcedfuel50

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With my P16 I've noticed that one of the rubber seals used for spacing the battery at the button end makes the battery a little too loose, as it clunks around inside of the device, and the other seal makes it a little too tight, as I have to somewhat crank down on the top cap to get it closed completely. My question is, will this ruin the threads? And, is it better for the battery to be somewhat loose with one seal, or is it better to crank down on it with the other seal? I may use my heating iron and ever so lightly press down on the bigger seal to get some of the thickness out of it.

Thanks in advance.

Yes, you are supposed to have to tighten down the top to compress the Oring and you can feel a fari amount of resistance the last 1/2 turn as it compresses the Oring, it won't hurt anything.

Also, the battery gets stuck on the Oring usually from Noalox build up and it gets sticky. Remove Oring, clean and reinsert and wipe down your batteries too.
 
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spek

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I have mostly the black AW's and one red AW. The red ones rattle ever so slightly without the o-ring and the black ones fit perfectly without any o rings. I find I prefer the black ones because they seem to last longer and perform too similar to notice a difference. This is my first time using any AW's at all the past few weeks. Is there actually a difference in output or voltage using the red ones? To me they seem the same but the black ones last noticeably longer. I mix up their actual three-letter names so I'm just saying their color to keep it simple :p

A complete side note. Since we're talking about cranking down on the threads, make sure you don't crank the atty down too far but just stop when it resists. I wrecked a brand new atty and battery, causing a short, by over tightening it. I may be wrong but I think the recessed connection on the precise allows the atty to screw down a little more than they should, which I think also varies between atty brands. Just thought that tidbit might help you out with your new p16 jivefly. Thanks vaporologist for answering my PM and helping out on that issue. I did win the whistle tip drawing when I replaced the battery tho so it evened out :D
 

pAth77

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I have mostly the black AW's and one red AW. The red ones rattle ever so slightly without the o-ring and the black ones fit perfectly without any o rings. I find I prefer the black ones because they seem to last longer and perform too similar to notice a difference. This is my first time using any AW's at all the past few weeks. Is there actually a difference in output or voltage using the red ones? To me they seem the same but the black ones last noticeably longer. I mix up their actual three-letter names so I'm just saying their color to keep it simple :p

A complete side note. Since we're talking about cranking down on the threads, make sure you don't crank the atty down too far but just stop when it resists. I wrecked a brand new atty and battery, causing a short, by over tightening it. I may be wrong but I think the recessed connection on the precise allows the atty to screw down a little more than they should, which I think also varies between atty brands. Just thought that tidbit might help you out with your new p16 jivefly. Thanks vaporologist for answering my PM and helping out on that issue. I did win the whistle tip drawing when I replaced the battery tho so it evened out :D

The only real benefit that I've seen out of the AWs (red) is that the drop-off in performance isn't as drastic as the protected (black) batts, but even with that the differences are really marginal. If you want longer batt life then the protected ones definitely perform well.
 
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