Passthrough Volts

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Adrenalynn

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The current delivered into the device may well be less. Voltage is regulated down to the point that the port shuts-down. So assuming you don't have it on some uber-long extension, you should get pretty close to 5vDC. But amperage is another story. And that's the umph you need to heat the thing up.

First, we need to remember that Volts * Amps = Watts, so Watts / Volts = Amps.

Now, think of a hair dryer, or an electric heater, or a curling iron or (man, hard not to come up with the girly analogies...)

Take two hair dryers that both run from the 120v house current. The 1800 watt hair dryer gets far hotter than the 1000 watt hair dryer, which gets hotter than the little 750 watt travel hair dryer. They're all running from the identical 120v circuit.

1800 / 120 = 15A (the max you should plug into a typical house plug here in the US)
1000 / 120 = 8.33A - just over half the _power_
750 / 120 = 6.25A - a little more than a third the _power_.

If the USB can't deliver adequate power, three things can happen. If it's close, then the device will run poorly. If it's a long way off, then either the protection circuit on the motherboard (kinda like a resettable fuse) will shut down power and the port will appear dead until it cools down enough to reset the fuse, or on an old and cheap motherboard, the chipset delivering the USB power will burn-up and that port will be dead forever.

(Wow - and with this post, that's 1000 cigarettes I haven't smoked! Amazing how that math works!)
 

AJMoore

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^^true. someone with more electronics knowledge can confirm or deny that this is possible, but my PT blows me away plugged into the wall adapter. plugged into the comp it's good, but nothing to drool over. which is why i have wall adapters all over... :lol:
Which wall adapter?? I've tried a few and they don't work with the 808 PT. Thanks.
 

WillyB

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I did try it and really didn't notice anything.

I've never tried anything over 3.7v so perhaps my thinking on 5v was exaggerated.
Sure you have. My KR808 batt comes of the charger at about 4.2V, as does my 510 and my 14500 TrustFire (for a box mod) batts. I would assume so do yours. The cut-off for charging 3.7V Li-Ions is 4.2V. If you read the small print on your chargers output it should say 4.2V. And although folks are saying their PT's are 5V, I seriously doubt that under load it's true, plugged into the computer... no way.

I have a home-brew PT with an AC 5VDC @ 2A (2000mA) power supply, directly connected (no USB connectors or thin wires) right to the switch and atty connector. With no atty connected it puts out 5.3V. Using a a KR cartomizer (under load, switch pressed) my voltage drops to about 4.7V.
 

Adrenalynn

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>> I seriously doubt that under load it's true, plugged into the computer... no way.

That's what a regulator is for, up to the current capacity of the regulator, or some fraction there-of.

That battery @ 4.2v, however, is unregulated.

If you're getting 5.3v from the power supply it's either incredibly poorly regulated, unregulated, or you need to get your meter over to a NIST-traceable lab for calibration. ;)
 

WillyB

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>> I seriously doubt that under load it's true, plugged into the computer... no way.

That's what a regulator is for, up to the current capacity of the regulator, or some fraction there-of.

That battery @ 4.2v, however, is unregulated.

If you're getting 5.3v from the power supply it's either incredibly poorly regulated, unregulated, or you need to get your meter over to a NIST-traceable lab for calibration. ;)
LOL. You expect perfect regulation from $3 Chinese made power supplies? Get real.

Seems I wasn't exact enough, it actually says 5.1V on the power supply case.

That battery @ 4.2v, however, is unregulated.
It makes no difference whether it's regulated or not, the point is Overlord, and most everyone actually, has in fact vaped at over 3.7V many, many times.
 

Adrenalynn

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I'm not sure what $3 chinese power supply you're referring to. Certainly not the PC with its high efficiency power supply and the massive filtering on the board. I thought we were talking USB here...

It makes all the difference in the world whether it's regulated or not, as you pointed out in your load observation. That 4.2v comes down real quick when you try to deliver current.

An XL here that I just pulled off the charger, for example, reads 4.182263v +/- 0.00004v (NIST Traceable Calibration). Read the battery in parallel while taking a hit and it drops to 3.447903v on the very first hit. The battery can't sustain delivery of something so far over the cell rating, internal resistance aint gonna get there.

Compare that to the regulated power from the PC, where my 5v line is reading 5.001701 - 5.042175v without the PT (or anything else on that root) and only drops a few hundredths every time I hit the PT, recovering immediately. Adminitedly, this is a top of the line power supply feeding a top of the line board, but it's still consumer-grade hardware.

So, yeah, a regulator does make a lot of difference, until you hit the point of thermal shock anyway. Of course, if we looked at it on the 'scope instead of the meter, we'd see it drift around in that range because the regulator isn't going to recover instantaneously from loads near max, but the output is going to be faaaaar more constant than any unregulated battery technology.
 
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