There toned down some details. 
Anyone want some photos done while I am fooling around? lolPhiniac Pyrex Tanks Unique, Rugged & Beautiful!
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There toned down some details. Anyone want some photos done while I am fooling around? lol
View attachment 209333 There toned down some details.
Still a bit detailed/"fuzzy" for blasting. The designs for sandblasting are black and white--grey doesn't work. No half-tones. You could either try "converting to black and white" (or "two colors" or "1 bit per pixel") or try increasing the contrast to the maximum that still has a recognizable image, but any grey areas are either going to disappear or go solid, and at a finished size of slightly less than an inch fine details will be extremely difficult.
Here's a version of the graphic quoted above converted to a format more suited to the masking process Phiniac uses. You can work with it or let Moorea work on it when she has the chance--or just ignore me altogether
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Still a bit detailed/"fuzzy" for blasting. The designs for sandblasting are black and white--grey doesn't work. No half-tones. You could either try "converting to black and white" (or "two colors" or "1 bit per pixel") or try increasing the contrast to the maximum that still has a recognizable image, but any grey areas are either going to disappear or go solid, and at a finished size of slightly less than an inch fine details will be extremely difficult.
Here's a version of the graphic quoted above converted to a format more suited to the masking process Phiniac uses. You can work with it or let Moorea work on it when she has the chance--or just ignore me altogether
View attachment 209413
I'm trying to consume this information and comply... lol
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Hi folks. I've got what's probably a DS question: What's the best (ie, easiest, least painful) way to take the Delrin caps off of my Phiniac? Pry? Use pliers?
I normally don't have to remove the caps because I use a tank tool. I only have to remove the caps when I use the Killer 705. After I've removed them a few times they get easier. I would think that warm water would swell the orings and make the cap harder to come off. I've heard of people putting them in the freezer but I don't know if that worked or not. I just struggled with it until they finally started to loosen over time.
Hey, Chris here (aka Not Jen). I second the twist/pull/wriggle approach. Using something metal to pry is a bad idea as that will probably break the glass. How long ago did you purchase this tank? We recently moved over to a different outer o-ring to make it a tad easier to remove the caps.
I usually can get one side to pry up a little, then the other side, then back to the first side until i eventually get the cap to come off.
Thank you Not Jen.
I pry with my thumbnail also. I should have made that clearer. One side and then the other.
Soaking definitely made it easier. Moorea, the tank's about 6 months old, I think. I generally don't remove the caps either. This time, however, I'm replacing the Delrin cap with one of your new Titaniums. For some reasons, the Delrins give me much more trouble and the SS.
BTW, I love the new Titanium caps! "Shiney"!!!
I'm guessing I had some juice built-up in the o-rings. Either that or the heat softened the rings.
I don't know what your "background" is so I don't know the easiest way to explain it, but to make the designs the glass is either etched or it isn't. From a computer/math background it would be a binary design (either on or off), from a drawing/art background it would be pen and ink (either black or white), and from a graphic design point of view the design is composed of only positive and negative space.
It seems a bit counter intuitive because the texture the etching gives seems like it would lend itself to tonal qualities, but it doesn't work out like that. And the "canvas" is simply too small to use half-tones or line tones, so you cannot have any "grey" areas, even though that's what it seems like the whole design is. Approach the design like it's a rubber stamp you are going to carve from an eraser with an xacto knife.
Perhaps it would help to not look at the designs on the tanks (after Jen and Chris have worked their magic), but to look at the designs themselves:
Animals - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks
Recently Added - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks
Most Popular - Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks
And I hope I am not coming off as a pedantic jerk--it's just that I understand the desire to have your own design be the one that's used, and I would hate to see you invest a lot of time and effort on perfecting an image that could not be used in their process.
Since I only have the one clear tank, variances in the glass wouldn't be an issue. When you said the steel and delrin were machined to the same specs I figured I might have gotten a slightly out-of-spec set of delrin caps, but once I was able to dig them up and compare, they are identical in size (been a while since the delrin caps were on the Umbrella tank).
I think it's a matter of the differences in reflectivity and contrast, though (my perception of a slight difference in size). When I look at the cobalt tank with delrin caps next to the clear tank with stainless caps there is obviously more overhang on the cobalt/delrin--even when I set them next to each other physically and see there is no measurable difference. It's kinda cool seeing a difference and no difference at the same time, but then I am easily amused
Happy Mother's Day, and good luck with all your appointments this week
Well you see now we have gotten into a new avenue of discusssion. The color glass (ie: cobalt) does not react like the clear and we have found it to be pretty inconsistent. So while the caps for the color tanks are all the same size, it is very possible to have a little more or less overhang from one color tank to the next.
Shoot us an email and will send you some of the new o-rings if you would like.
Pwyll's posts on this subject have been dead on. In short, due to the process and the fact that the canvas is so darn small (under 1" in height) silhouettes or black and white images are what we have to work with. Think of it this way, Chris is holding a gun that will shoot sand onto the tank to create the image, there are two possibilities on the tank to create this image, sandblasted areas or not. Just like a photograph negative, we have a positive or a negative. Further because the canvas is so small a design with very small lines, dots or to much detail become problematic as the thin lines or very small areas become lost when scaled down to 1". If you want to email the image I will see if there is anything that can be done to make it happen.
Forgive me for not seeing this in this mammoth thread. And also if this comes off as "are you serious".
Are these awesome looking tanks available for an AGA atomizer?
And without giving a nod to a competitor, does anybody even make them? Can you get a custom, or non-factory tank for an AGA?
Thanks!
Are these awesome looking tanks available for an AGA atomizer?
And without giving a nod to a competitor, does anybody even make them? Can you get a custom, or non-factory tank for an AGA?
Thanks!
I'd like to Know that too. I've just got into and fallen un live with RBAs
- Valar Morghulis
Moorea will probably need the inner and outer dimensions of the tube to be able to answer your question unless this has come up before. Also the length.
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