Phoenix center post is driving me mad!

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PhreakySTS9

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So about a week ago my Phoenix clone came in. I've got the coils and wicks down pat, and I really love this atty. The problem I have been having is the center post. Now, when I screw it on to a device I barely turn it until it just makes contact, I don't tighten it any more than necessary, and infact, on some devices like my ego twist it is so loose it rattles, yet I am STILL having to pull my post at least 7-8 times a day, which you know involves disassembling the whole thing and is a major PITA.

Does anybody out there have any advice on how to keep this thing properly seated? I love the atty but this issue is driving me nuts, I mean it is really starting to agitate me to no end.
 

spraintz

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I think all who have a Phoenix suffer from this and unfortunately it seams that is simply a design issue and without some creative work might be hard to overcome.

In my usage I have found that if it does get pushed up too far the I will just take the drip tip off, carefully slide a long thin screwdriver down and past the coil and give it a press. it will push the center pin back out a bit and keep you from having to open it all the way back up.

however both of them that I have here (mine and my GF's) haven't really sucked it so far that it wouldn't connect or be really loose either :confused:
 

PhreakySTS9

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Well I had a vertical coil setup, and couldn't get past it with the cap on, but I switched back to a horizontal coil and now have plenty of room to do so, it's also easier to push it with the atty still connected to the PV. I preferred the vertical setup for its ease of setup, but the horizontal coils lack of problems is reason enough to keep it! Thanks all!
 

Cjax

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i have 2 and when i use them on my ego, no real issues, but if i use them with my bolt the positive post pops out if i screw it down too far. the problem is the pin in the batt connector of my bolt is soo tight, theres no give, so it pushes the center post in the atty up which pushes up the post. i will try to disassemble it but not until I get another rba to use just incase something goes south. So until then...
 

NC_Fog

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I only use my Phoenix clones now for backup due to the center pin issues. I Got tired of constantly fiddling with the center pin. No matter how carefully or lightly I screwed them into my mod, the center pin would eventually move up enough to lose contact. I now use the Rainbow(V3, Wyvern...depending on vendor). Some of the center pins on the Rainbows do protrude quite a-bit so I just file it down to my desired spot(one time fix if you desire). No problems at all with them for a month and the Rainbow is easier to rebuild...lol.

Marty
 

michliu

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My first Phoenix clone that I used almost all day for two months had the problem with the center post. It now doesn't even fire even after rebuilding the coil a few times. The rubber ring at the bottom around the center post is frayed from me constantly pushing on the base to get the center post to make contact with the battery. Now using the second of my 4.
 

P1NkY

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In mine the problem was caused by seepage of e-liquid between the positive post, silicone insert and main body (9, 10 and 2 in the diagram respectively).

I had removed the "body fitting ring" (3) to see if it made any difference in airflow. It was a PITA to remove, had to pry a knife edge in there and wiggle it to get clearance. It only caused problems, as you'll see.

The fitting ring has a slight lip on the top which rests on the plastic insulators (7 and 8) and is supposed to hold #7 down and not let it and its respective positive post (9) creep up, breaking contact. Yes, it's a weak point, if your post insulator melts, your center contact will have more play in it and give you grief. (Maybe source some beefier, heat resistant insulators?)

The way I fixed mine, was to completely disassemble it. Remove the screws (11), re-remove the fitting ring (3), pull out the insulators (7, 8), get a thin screwdriver and push the center contact from the bottom to get it out (9) and remove the silicone insert (10). Wash, rinse and dry everything carefully with soapy water.

To get it back together correctly without it sliding all over the place, push the silicone insert in first. Make sure it's completely seated. Push in the center contact next. Yes, it will want to push the silicone insert out along with it, so you'll have to work it in carefully. the goal is to have the contact stick out slightly, while having the silicone ring flush with the threads on the main body.

Make sure insulator 7 goes on the positive post, as it's ever so slightly shorter than insulator 8.
Reinstall the body fitting ring (can you say PITA?) without mangling anything. I used the blunt edge of a butter knife to press it on.
Reinstall screws and hopefully, no more slidey-ness.

Diagram is here.
 

Randy C

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I have a phoenix on a provari. No battery to atty contact problems so far. I've only had it a week or so.

Unfortunately, it WILL fail once the center pin bushing falls apart. For now, make sure you don't over-tighten; this will prolong this from happening..
 
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P1NkY

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I experienced the same thing with the DID. Here's a quick easy fix that I came up with that should work on the Pheonix
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...uick-easy-fix-did-clone-center-pin-issue.html
Great idea, Randy! :toast:
In the Phoenix, you'd have to work the floss around the center post while it's still assembled, which would be much, MUCH easier than taking it apart, like I did... :facepalm:
Mine is still working great, but if it starts getting slidey again, guess which method I'm going to try, lol!

ETA: Weird, tried to go back to my other post to tell others to try Randy C's method first, but it doesn't give me the option to edit. :/
 
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dsy5

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I had that problem on a DID clone and to fix it I removed the insulator for an old cartomizer and sliced off a portion from the end that is nearest the battery. I then slid this on the post before the DID insulator - it now protrudes a bit more and I never have any problems with any of my batteries. And if you do end up ruining the original insulator you could probably use a carto insulator (or two) as replascements.
 
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