I'm just teasing, you know I like that one.
I know blu
.. but Dr. Pete is all mine..- Status
I know blu
.. but Dr. Pete is all mine..
No.... I slide it over the carto to tighten up the draw. It's my pv of choice while at home it generally to big for my pockets. It does go from my coffee table to my hand and back to the coffee table in 6.4 seconds though.
How in the heck did you get four of those from bert?!!!! Hook a brother up!
Just a few goodies
Just a few goodies
Nice to finally see a little peek of your collection.
MWA - how is the top-feeder donut working? Looks like it would fit the bill, and then some.
Just a few goodies
What a show off and I am so jealous. Seriously, that is a very nice collection. So is the one in your avi.
Just a few goodies
Glass drip tips........*faint* were do you find such beauties ?
All great looking set-ups, I have to get some pictures made, but for now a peak on some of my setups:
Vape
Vape
Indulgence 18650 mod with homemade syringe tank mod & boge SR carto, Provari with ikenvape i06 atty & delrin drip tip + empire mods hex drip shield, and Maxi Roughstack v2 with boge SR carto. Man, these i06's are da bomb!
How did you put the syringe port in your homemade tank?
Dunno how andyman made his but maybe this will help you.
Pete54 said:Ok, here we go. To add a Fill Port to your tube.
Tools required:
Drill or Dremel
3/32" Drill Bit
Steel Hand Tap Union Butterfield 1528(UNC) High-Speed Steel Hand Tap, Uncoated (Bright) Finish, Round Shank With Square End, Taper Chamfer, 3 Flute, H2 Tolerance, #4-40 Thread Size | SmallParts.com
Pliers (any kind)
This post has been edited because I found out the Polycarbonate Screws are weakened by E-Liquid to the point that the head breaks off from the threaded part of the screw after only a few days! I have replaced those screws with Polypropylene Screws.
Here is a link to what I am now using.
Polypropylene Machine Screw, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, #4-40, 1/8" Length (Pack of 25) | SmallParts.com
Small Phillips head screw driver.
Procedure:
Make a, mark with a pen, on the tube about 1/2" from either end.
Drill a hole through the tube, being careful not to push so hard that the drill hits the other side of the tube. Try to clean off any strands of poly left over from drilling.
This is the most important step, as it determines how much stress the screw will place on the tube when it's screwed into place. The hand tap is tapered so that it slowly cuts the threads the further it is screwed into the tube. You can just about turn it by hand but, if you need to, you can use pliers to hold it in place while you thread the tube onto it by turning the tube.
Try to to maintain a 90 degree angle to the tube while threading the tube onto the tap. Once you have about a 1/4" of the tap showing inside the tube (as shown in the picture), back it out and blow any threads of poly out of the hole.
Now screw the poly screw into the tube. If everything is cut correctly it should screw in with ease, only tightening as the screw head contacts the tube.
If it takes any force to screw the screw in, back it out and use the Hand Tap again, only this time, turn it a few more turns deeper into the tube to make the hole a bit larger. You can't really make the hole too large with the tool, but you can make it too small. Again, just make sure that at least 1/4" of the tap is though the hole in the tube.
Previous attempts to make a fill port have ended up with small cracks forming a week or two after making them. The reason is that I was using a metal screw to create the threads which, not only required a lot of force to do, but also made the screw so tight when assembled that the pressure would lead to small stress cracks that would eventually grow. I believe that the sharpness of the hand tap, along with using much less force while fabricating the port, will cause this design not to fail.
Just used my dremel tool, drill with a couple of bits, and a screw. Although, rather than using the thumb screw, an actual tap is a much better idea, lol.
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