Hey there guys, just bought a iPV3 and two VTC4 batteries from an eBay seller and it should be coming in this Thursday or Friday. It's gonna be my first box mod so I'm pretty excited. Coming from vaping drippers out of mech mods, is there anything I need to look into before making the switch? I'm more of a cloud chaser and I'm wondering what's the optimal volts/wattage for say a 0.3 ohm build. Thanks.
Pioneer4U iPV3
- Thread starter Shynobi
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Congrats , can't really help on the 0.3 build but i do know that you will get the best performance out of these higher powered mods by building higher ohm coils , thats what their all about , not needing to go so low.
As is usually the case, your best bet is to use the search function for IPV3 and look through some of the other threads on this unit to get your questions answered. If, after reading them, you still have questions, as them in one of those already existing threads.
Can you inform me in on what's the differences between using high ohm builds with more wattage in comparison to low ohm builds with less wattage? (Considering they are pumping out the same amount of amps)
Shynobi, it depends on the particular device what resistance you build your coils for a regulated mod. For your case, the ipv3's chip allows for voltage between 1 and 7volts. This means in order to maximize the ipv3 capabilities of 150w and get full range of power, you would need to build a .33ohm coil or lower.
Advice regarding building higher ohm coils goes toward other high wattage regulated devices that do not have a buck down chip capable of giving a full range to low ohm, high wattage vaping. They begin their range at 4volts without a buck down chip - you would easily hit the max power of the mod with low ohm builds, but would not be able to Vape the lower wattages as the voltage minimum would not allow for it without a buck down to go below 4V.
The ipv3 is designed for lower ohm builds in this regard.
Hope that makes sense.
- Bboy
Advice regarding building higher ohm coils goes toward other high wattage regulated devices that do not have a buck down chip capable of giving a full range to low ohm, high wattage vaping. They begin their range at 4volts without a buck down chip - you would easily hit the max power of the mod with low ohm builds, but would not be able to Vape the lower wattages as the voltage minimum would not allow for it without a buck down to go below 4V.
The ipv3 is designed for lower ohm builds in this regard.
Hope that makes sense.
- Bboy
To expand on your original question regarding optimal volt/watts for a .3ohm build - that's all dependent on the atomizer, wicking, airflow, and your preferences. The more air you can bring into the atomizer, the cooler your coils will be, and the vapour - provided that your wicking can keep up. With most atomizers, you are limited on how much air you can bring into the chamber (without modifications of course) - so your optimal wattage will depend on how warm you can handle the vapour. A good starting point is always low wattage, say 5-10watts, then gradually increase to the your preference with what your atomizer, wicking, and airflow will allow.
I'll also +1 on AzPlumber's comment regarding the Sony VTC market - As mentioned, the VTC5's hold the most concern for fakes right now, but they're are fakes for many of Sony's batteries including the VTC4's as well - so be weary of that knowing they came from an Ebay seller.
- Bboy
I'll also +1 on AzPlumber's comment regarding the Sony VTC market - As mentioned, the VTC5's hold the most concern for fakes right now, but they're are fakes for many of Sony's batteries including the VTC4's as well - so be weary of that knowing they came from an Ebay seller.
- Bboy
IPV3 has a 7V output limit so you will need to build sub-ohm to hit the high wattage, 0.49ohm to hit 100w and 0.33ohm to hit 150w. All that designed to work best with higher ohm's crap is, well, crap - at least it is if you want to push this thing to its limit.
EDIT: just realised it was explained much better above
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
EDIT: just realised it was explained much better above
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Shynobi, it depends on the particular device what resistance you build your coils for a regulated mod. For your case, the ipv3's chip allows for voltage between 1 and 7volts. This means in order to maximize the ipv3 capabilities of 150w and get full range of power, you would need to build a .33ohm coil or lower.
Advice regarding building higher ohm coils goes toward other high wattage regulated devices that do not have a buck down chip capable of giving a full range to low ohm, high wattage vaping. They begin their range at 4volts without a buck down chip - you would easily hit the max power of the mod with low ohm builds, but would not be able to Vape the lower wattages as the voltage minimum would not allow for it without a buck down to go below 4V.
The ipv3 is designed for lower ohm builds in this regard.
Hope that makes sense.
- Bboy
Forgot about the buckdown , thanks for posting this , yes i was talking about higher ohm builds with the higher powered chips without this capability , with those you have to build higher ohm to get the benefit out of the mod.
At least according to the most experienced veterans on this site.
Shynobi, it depends on the particular device what resistance you build your coils for a regulated mod. For your case, the ipv3's chip allows for voltage between 1 and 7volts. This means in order to maximize the ipv3 capabilities of 150w and get full range of power, you would need to build a .33ohm coil or lower.
Advice regarding building higher ohm coils goes toward other high wattage regulated devices that do not have a buck down chip capable of giving a full range to low ohm, high wattage vaping. They begin their range at 4volts without a buck down chip - you would easily hit the max power of the mod with low ohm builds, but would not be able to Vape the lower wattages as the voltage minimum would not allow for it without a buck down to go below 4V.
The ipv3 is designed for lower ohm builds in this regard.
Hope that makes sense.
- Bboy
This made perfect sense. Thank you Bboy. I've been messing with vapecalc.com to more understand what my most optimal build would be and your post reinforced what I found out. Not to worry, the person I bought the VTC4s from have like 500+ positive feedback and never had a negative feedback so I think this person should be trust worthy. Couple of other buyers left positive reviews for seller of the VTC4 too. Thanks for everyone's concern in safety!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByT2N_e2V0luMTFMMTVuSW13c28/edit
here is a graph of the IPV3 with ohms from .1-3, volts from 1-7, and watts from 10-150. Because of the limitations on voltage, the only way to get the whole range of wattage is to use, as someone above mentioned around .33 coil.
here is a graph of the IPV3 with ohms from .1-3, volts from 1-7, and watts from 10-150. Because of the limitations on voltage, the only way to get the whole range of wattage is to use, as someone above mentioned around .33 coil.
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