Pipe MOD tried to kill me

[Margate69]

Last night I went to hit my smok pipe mod, and the button got stuck on. Only took a few seconds for me to get the battery tube open, and drop the battery.

Smoke started pouring out of the unit, and the battery was hot a hell when I managed to get it out. Big black burn streak down the side of the battery.

Close call...

 

[Baditude]

Which battery were you using? Protected ICR or IMR? Which brand of battery? What charger are you using?

 

[generic mutant]

Interesting...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9s-Yu8MAxw&t=143

Glad you're OK.

 

[Margate69]

smok ICR battery, trust fire charger. I have only had this pipe for maybe 2 weeks? The button just stuck down, and wouldn't pop up, causing the unit to start overheating very fast. (blue wrapped smok ICR )

 

[BardicDruid]

Last night I went to hit my Smok pipe mod, and the button got stuck on. Only took a few seconds for me to get the battery tube open, and drop the battery.

Smoke started pouring out of the unit, and the battery was hot a hell when I managed to get it out. Big black burn streak down the side of the battery.

Close call...

I learned real quick, unscrew your clearo, BCC or carto, it's a lot quicker breaking the connection that way than the battery cap. My buddy has been using a Smok Epipe for a couple of months now, no problems, when he compared it to the one from FastTech it was very different from the real Smok one. But with either one you don't have the ability to use a protected battery or fuse in it, which in my opinion isn't a safe device. He has just moved on to a King Epipe and now uses AW Protected 18350's in it.

 

[Margate69]

I use AW protected in my Smok woo. I really have no clue what caused the button failure, I haven't had any interest in taking it apart since I have had it for such a short time, I don't really want to fix it when I could have it replaced. It is a genuine Smok unit, bought from my usual supplier, just had a fault I suppose. I'll keep that in mind about removing the tank if it happens with the replacement (I hope I don't have too lol)

 

[Baditude]

Smok ICR battery, trust fire charger. I have only had this pipe for maybe 2 weeks? The button just stuck down, and wouldn't pop up, causing the unit to start overheating very fast. (blue wrapped smok ICR )

IMR batteries are much safer chemistry batteries than ICR batteries (even though they are so-called "protected"). The red AW 18350 IMR battery is a much safer battery to use than an ICR protected battery.

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?

AW 18350 IMR battery

However, it seems that your pipe mod's fire switch is defective. It won't matter much which battery you are using in a defective mod. I would seek to return it under warranty if you can.

Trustfire chargers are also not quality chargers. I suggest getting a Nitecore Intellicharger or Xtar charger. Battery chargers at RTD Vapor

 

[Margate69]

Thanks Baditude, I've read all your blogs on batteries and MODS, very good info on there.

Really don't think there was anything else I could have done, since it was a complete mechanical failure.

I will be using AW red labels when I switch to a full mech MOD. But the black label AW ICR 123 works well in my regulated MOD for now.

Thanks for the charger info too though, I know this one is cheap and starting to charge slower over the last few months I have had it.

 

[Racehorse]

Margate, there is a place on the forum to file a report about this. It is not used for any personal reasons except to help keep track of incidents like this, thereby improving the industry.

Ask one of the mods, they can direct you to the correct form.

Everyone who has an adverse event should submit the form. It helps the technology improve.

 

[Baditude]

Thanks Baditude, I've read all your blogs on batteries and MODS, very good info on there.

Really don't think there was anything else I could have done, since it was a complete mechanical failure.

I will be using AW red labels when I switch to a full mech MOD. But the black label AW ICR 123 works well in my regulated MOD for now.

Thanks for the charger info too though, I know this one is cheap and starting to charge slower over the last few months I have had it.

Important point: Regulated mods require "high drain" batteries for the boost circuitry in their processors. This is explained in my blog on batteries. IMR batteries are "high drain" and "safe chemistry", protected batteries are neither. There is really no reason to use protected batteries today. ICR batteries have insufficient amps for VV/VW mods or when using a Kick in a mechanical mod.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/provape/334831-technical-why-high-drain-batteries.html

I had the same experience as you with my first mechanical mod a year and a half ago. It was an AltSmoke BB, which has a very prominent fire switch. I was using a protected ICR battery in it, which was what was recommended at that time. I had put the BB into a pants pocket and the fire button got compressed for an extended period of time. The battery over-discharged and went into thermal runaway. In hindsight, I should have either removed the battery or the juice attachment to break the electric circuit to the battery if I was going to continue to put the mod in a tightly enclosed place like a pant pocket. Since this incident I have used only IMR safe chemistry batteries in both my mechanical and regulated mods.