I mostly use LR attys. I have a 510 starter kit from Brand Diablo which I think is a re-branded JOYE 510 kit. I've been using this set-up heavily for 2 months. I've never had any problems with the slim 510 set-up. I have batteries from a few different companies again with no problems. What are the reasons that you experienced vapors advise against LR attys on these batteries? Should I be expecting problems soon?
Please explain the "No LR Attys On Slim 510 Batteries" concept.
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Those little Batts in the slim would be majorly overstressed with the 2Amp draw of an LR Atty, and that's my final answer.!
But the juice, it tastes so good with them and I'm not holding onto a coffee can of a battery to get the goodness!
If you really want to know more about it read this:
Lithium-ion Safety Concerns – Battery University
Big thread about it here
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-lr-atomizers-510-stock-180mah-batteries.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-lr-atomizers-510-stock-180mah-batteries.html
It gets interesting. My understanding is:
The LR atties stress the slim (180 mah current-technology) batteries because they "over draw" them. They don't usually fry the circuits, but wear out the batteries. (it might be possible to trip the protection, IDK). It's basically asking for more "juice" that it can put out, which is hard on it and shortens an already short life. I haven't actually heard of the protected units exploding, but I'd be interested to see a post/link for more info. Of course, you get even crappier usage-time from them than the normal hour or so.
The LR atties on the larger batteries are a different story. The larger batteries CAN put out the current, in many cases. Now, it's often the circuity that gets stressed, if designed for say 3.0 Ω atty, and a 1.5 Ω atty is used. This manifests as bad button/protection circuit trip, may actually be a fried component inside. Sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't. Lot's of people tell stories about fried eGo type devices with LR atties. Others swear by them.
And who knows, or could keep up on a daily basis with, what revisions go into these designs.
The LR atties stress the slim (180 mah current-technology) batteries because they "over draw" them. They don't usually fry the circuits, but wear out the batteries. (it might be possible to trip the protection, IDK). It's basically asking for more "juice" that it can put out, which is hard on it and shortens an already short life. I haven't actually heard of the protected units exploding, but I'd be interested to see a post/link for more info. Of course, you get even crappier usage-time from them than the normal hour or so.
The LR atties on the larger batteries are a different story. The larger batteries CAN put out the current, in many cases. Now, it's often the circuity that gets stressed, if designed for say 3.0 Ω atty, and a 1.5 Ω atty is used. This manifests as bad button/protection circuit trip, may actually be a fried component inside. Sometimes happens, sometimes doesn't. Lot's of people tell stories about fried eGo type devices with LR atties. Others swear by them.
And who knows, or could keep up on a daily basis with, what revisions go into these designs.
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The reason you get better flavor is that most flavors taste better at 5V. But the only way you'll get true 5V is to use an LR (1.5 resistance) atty and mod with an IMR battery (made with LiMN chemistery) that can put out the power like mwa says above. Only a mod can hold the special batt needed.
The best batt is an AW IMR 14500 (red color) like those that are used in a Reo mini or 18650 (red color) that is used in a Reo for example. If you use a different batt, sure it will appear to work but not really give 5V and stress the batt to an early grave. It's a waste money for the difference in price of several dollars more for LR attys and not get the true output. Even if a vendor says their attys are LR that doesn't necessarly mean that they are true 1.5. Avid Vapers is the only one that I know of that sells guarenteed Cisco 1.5 attys. They are tested before sale to meet that spec.
The TR-001 charger is a crap charger. Can't charge two batts at the same time. Go with the WF-139. You can use a car charger with it. Radio Shack is best deal.
Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.
Avid Vaper : Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquid and Accessories
Hope this helps
The best batt is an AW IMR 14500 (red color) like those that are used in a Reo mini or 18650 (red color) that is used in a Reo for example. If you use a different batt, sure it will appear to work but not really give 5V and stress the batt to an early grave. It's a waste money for the difference in price of several dollars more for LR attys and not get the true output. Even if a vendor says their attys are LR that doesn't necessarly mean that they are true 1.5. Avid Vapers is the only one that I know of that sells guarenteed Cisco 1.5 attys. They are tested before sale to meet that spec.
The TR-001 charger is a crap charger. Can't charge two batts at the same time. Go with the WF-139. You can use a car charger with it. Radio Shack is best deal.
Super T Manufacturing, Innovative manufacturer of electronic cigarette products.
Avid Vaper : Electronic Cigarettes, E-Liquid and Accessories
Hope this helps
you know eGo's are more chapstick sized then coffee can
An Ego is a nice battery but if I'm not mistaken a 2 ohm atty or carto is still outside it's specifications for current draw. I have used one with a 2.0 ohm but it doesn't provide the power to get the full benefit of that atty anyway. I am not saying you can't get a good vape with an Ego. I still ocassionaly use an Ego when I go out but now use a 2.6 ohm carto on it. Wether or not someone chooses to use 2.0 ohm's on an Ego is their choice but they should also be aware of the drawbacks. You are still stressing the battery. As far as explosions and fires go It has happened to vapors but on a wild guess I would say you are safer with your pv at home than driving your car.
Definitely not a good idea... you may get a few nice hits, but that LR atty will rape your little 510 battery. a 450+ mah battery is recommended. Even "fat battery" 510 batteries like the Ego, Riva, Inferno, Tornado aren't recommended to use with LR attys because the atty can burn up the circuitry of the battery...
OK, lets give chornbro a break. 1st off, when people say "LR" they don't define it so it can be confusing. It may very well be that 2.0 Ω atties seldom (or never) cause issues with these devices (eGo class), whereas a 1.5 Ω atty will fry it if heavily vaped. It may also be that the eGo/Riva makes have made a design change, or that you just need to vape heavily enough in a short period of time to get it to overheat/stress.
I can tell you that many forum members who's information and opinions I take very seriously, have had these units fry fairly quickly using 1.5 ohm atties. Also, VENDORS have had returns and notices trends that LR atties have cause the MOSFET circuitry to be stressed.
So, try 2.5 Ω 1st. If that doesn't do it for ya, try 2.0 Ω. Lastly, I'd stay away from 1.5 but if you insist, go ahead. Just know as you reduce the ohms, history has shown, that you increase the risk of premature device failure.
Remember ohm's law: power = V*V/R where R is the atty ohm (resistance) value and V is the voltage (3.2 on many eGo models). Thus 1.5 ohms at 3.2 volts is 6.82667 watts. 2.0 ohms is 5.12 watts on the same device. That's a full 1.7 watts difference on devices that were originally designed for, say, 3.6 watts (IDK the actual design spec, but that's for a 2.8 ohm atty)
The above is for eGo type kits... the OP was talking about "skinny" 510's. See post #9 for the differences (and some of the other posts too). Most people can't stand the short battery life of a standard 510 batt and it's worse with LR's.
I can tell you that many forum members who's information and opinions I take very seriously, have had these units fry fairly quickly using 1.5 ohm atties. Also, VENDORS have had returns and notices trends that LR atties have cause the MOSFET circuitry to be stressed.
So, try 2.5 Ω 1st. If that doesn't do it for ya, try 2.0 Ω. Lastly, I'd stay away from 1.5 but if you insist, go ahead. Just know as you reduce the ohms, history has shown, that you increase the risk of premature device failure.
Remember ohm's law: power = V*V/R where R is the atty ohm (resistance) value and V is the voltage (3.2 on many eGo models). Thus 1.5 ohms at 3.2 volts is 6.82667 watts. 2.0 ohms is 5.12 watts on the same device. That's a full 1.7 watts difference on devices that were originally designed for, say, 3.6 watts (IDK the actual design spec, but that's for a 2.8 ohm atty)
The above is for eGo type kits... the OP was talking about "skinny" 510's. See post #9 for the differences (and some of the other posts too). Most people can't stand the short battery life of a standard 510 batt and it's worse with LR's.
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Not if you have the new riva's or ego's that are a true 3.7v battery.
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