PLEASE HELP!!!! booster problem...

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Budjiman1

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Hi everyone. I bought a couple T.I. booster chips to try my hand at making a mod using them because I figured there would be something on here that had some instructions or guidance, but I can't seem to locate anything. So, here are my questions. Can I make one using just ONE 18650? Also, where can I find a step buy step in regard to making one? Is the a thread/post that gives any info on how to make one of these? Is there a parts list anywhere.

My goal is to be able to make a 5 volt booster mod using the chip and an 18650. I really need some help doing this. I am pretty new with this stuff but I was able to successfully make a box mod using a T.I. regulator and I am also working on an adjustable mod. If some one could help me out here I would really appreciate it. I have some juices and a few other things I would be willing to send to someone who would be willing to give me a hand here...I really need pointed in the right direction...please! lol

Looking forward to hearing from you guys. :blush::confused::facepalm::oops:
 

Java_Az

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Off hand i dont think there are any guides for this chip yet. Yes you can use it with one 18650 battery. They are pretty simple to set up all you need is the chip and two caps if your going to run it at 5 volts. one cap on the input voltage line and one cap on the output voltage is pretty much all there is to it. IF you read the data sheet they have a list of tested and approved caps for the module.
 

WillyB

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There's actually a lot of info here regarding the TI booster. As far as an 18650, that is an ideal choice.

Here's the basic diagram.

5v_o.jpg


Here's one by Mamu.

booser__mamu_tpic.jpg


Here's one set up.

P1060356.jpg


Here's another using better caps and placement.

ti5vwire.jpg


Do note the caps are polarized, proper orientation is needed. The caps seem to be up for some discussion. Many have said these work fine.

100µF 35V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

The datasheet does call for Low ESR.

Maybe these @ $4 would be a good choice.

20x Rubycon ZLH Low-ESR capacitors 100uF 16v 105C 5mm - eBay (item 330374477779 end time Nov-29-10 23:17:55 PST)
 

WillyB

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Cool. What do you gain? I was looking at using an 18650 that I have laying around, but have not experimented with it yet. This post, and another, are both trading the amps for volts. Why? Does the atty perform any better?
HUH??? What does that mean?

This booster is a way to 5V vaping using one cell, thereby avoiding any of the concerns of stacked cells to do the same. And the one cell design means it's very simple (and cheap) to install an internal charging circuit.

Does the atty perform any better

And what does that mean? Pop a Joye 510 on a naked 18650 and you'll be dissipating about 6.6W. Pop the same batt/atty into a TI boosted device and you'll be at about 11.4W. I would imagine the large legion of 5V vapers would say their atties perform much better at that increased voltage.
 

AttyPops

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HUH??? What does that mean?

This booster is a way to 5V vaping using one cell, thereby avoiding any of the concerns of stacked cells to do the same. And the one cell design means it's very simple (and cheap) to install an internal charging circuit.

And what does that mean? Pop a Joye 510 on a naked 18650 and you'll be dissipating about 6.6W. Pop the same batt/atty into a TI boosted device and you'll be at about 11.4W. I would imagine the large legion of 5V vapers would say their atties perform much better at that increased voltage.

I was only asking a question. It's still just a question, not a "meaning". It doesn't "mean" anything, other than I am an electronics novice asking a question on a forum. Maybe I should start (another) new thread. But since the question seemed to be on topic with power boosting... I asked.

Maybe a rephrased question:

OK, you get 5 volts at XX amps this way. Does that mean you get more watts at the atty? Or did you give up the watts, due to inefficiencies and the amps trade off?

My understanding of a booster is that you trade the amps for the volts. So if you have say, 2.0 amps at 3.6 volts going in, you could get 7.2 volts with 1 amp out (assuming a theoretical 100% efficient booster). Or some combination of V * I = P<in>.

Since we lost amps going from 3.7 volts to 5.0 volts, I thought it would be less watts than that. My understanding (maybe incorrect) is that you'd get less watts out of the device than you put into it (like 14%). I guess it doesn't work that way.

BTW, I vape at both 3.6 and 5.0 volts (PT) so I know 5 volts using a PT is better. I'm not debating that 5.0 is better or not (it is). IDK how that works with batteries tho. Given they may be amp restricted. So that's why I asked the question. I guess, thinking about it, this is similar to using 2 batteries, in series with a (switched?) voltage regulator. You're correct about the simplicity of course, but that isn't really my question. I agree that simplicity is an advantage tho.

I'm not knocking it, I just don't want to drop $25.00 bucks on one and not understand it. It seems like I'd get more watts with high-amp 3.6 volt, than I would with low-amp 5.0 volt (given a 14% loss). Guess it doesn't work that way.
 
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Java_Az

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At 3.6 volts a 2.5 ohm atomizer pulls 1.44 amps. even if your battery can put out 2 amps or 6 amps or even 20 amps, 1.44 amps is all that atomizer is going to pull @ 3.6 volts. Same goes for a power adapter if you hook that 2.5 ohm atomizer to a dc power adapter that 3.6 volts and 5 amps the resulting amps pulled by the circuit when on is going to be 1.44 amps. but using the booster chip it take the voltage up to 5 volts. 5 volts with a 2.5 ohm atomizer will pull 2 amps. So you are actually getting more amps to the atomizer with the booster chip then without it at a cost of 14% of the mah. Really this chip is more efficient then a 5 volt regulator because you have to run a regulator off two batteries in series so the volts double but the mah stays the same. If you ran this chip off two batteries in parallel your mah rating doubles so 14% of double the mah is better then 14% of a single mah if the batteries are in series.
 

AttyPops

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At 3.6 volts a 2.5 ohm atomizer pulls 1.44 amps. even if your battery can put out 2 amps or 6 amps or even 20 amps, 1.44 amps is all that atomizer is going to pull @ 3.6 volts. Same goes for a power adapter if you hook that 2.5 ohm atomizer to a dc power adapter that 3.6 volts and 5 amps the resulting amps pulled by the circuit when on is going to be 1.44 amps. but using the booster chip it take the voltage up to 5 volts. 5 volts with a 2.5 ohm atomizer will pull 2 amps. So you are actually getting more amps to the atomizer with the booster chip then without it at a cost of 14% of the mah. Really this chip is more efficient then a 5 volt regulator because you have to run a regulator off two batteries in series so the volts double but the mah stays the same. If you ran this chip off two batteries in parallel your mah rating doubles so 14% of double the mah is better then 14% of a single mah if the batteries are in series.

Thank you! That explains it all. It's the "pull" part that threw me. I was only understanding the watts part from the chip's perspective. Didn't realize that the "pull" was limited by voltage. I usually think of a resistor as limiting amps, with a voltage drop, but didn't go at it from that angle. I was thinking "push" from the power source through the atty, not draw from the atty.... duh.
 
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WillyB

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Didn't mean to sound abrupt. You seem to be going about it in a round about way.

Pop a Joye 510 on a naked 18650 and you'll be dissipating about 6.6W. Pop the same batt/atty into a TI boosted device and you'll be at about 11.4W.

The TI booster with a Joye atty and an 18650 will in fact achieve a true ~5V, under load. The booster does have a 12W limit, with a Joye atty you'll be 11.4W (TI products are quite robust).

If you don't have the current/amps available you can't get 5V.

A prime example of not having enough current is folks who use a 5V@2000mA AC/USB adapter to run a so-called 5V PT. Those with Joye 510's will actually be vaping at 4.2V (all of the 2000mA doesn't quite get to the atty) , but because the cable/switch/connector assembly they bought was called a '5V PT' they think they are 5V vapers.

The difference between 4.2 and 5V is rather dramatic, about a 40% increase in watts consumed.

In a nutshell an 18650 and the TI booster (as configured in the diagrams/pics) will in fact drive any standard atty at a true 5V, under load. I hope that is what you are asking.

On a side note you always see dire warnings about running LR atties on a PT. If your PT is 5V@2000mA (2A) powered what will happen? You'll end up at a measly 6W while vaping at 3V. Hardly a cause for concern, mostly just a waste of time.

Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
 

AttyPops

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Nah, it was just an Ohm's Law brain-fart. IDK if I really care about the voltage (True 5v, vs 4.x v) on a PT, as long as I'm somewhere near the 6-7 watt sweet spot for the atty (4.2v, 2.5 ohm = 7.056 watts @ 1.68a). At least, that's my current thinking. One of these days I'll put a multi-meter in line on an active PT to see what it is really pulling. Just for fun. Anyway, thanks everyone for the info.

P.S. Now I'm thinking about the HV atty equation with a pair of 14500's... No IC components, and saves me $25.00 (although that booster chip is cool). But that's probably another thread (and a lot of reading 1st).
 
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ZoSo15

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addisdaddy07

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Here's a fun question, should I use a on/off slide switch or a spst secondary fire switch? basically, push the first to activate the circuit, and then press the main to fire the atty. I kind of like the two switch method because it minimizes accidental activation of the circuit. You have to be actively pushing BOTH buttons to complete the circuit and vape. Have to ponder for a bit and see how to make it comfortable.
 
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