Please help the big noob with a flashlight mod

[Vapor Vinny]

Last week I built my first mod and to my own amazement, the damn thing works and works really well. It's a puck that uses 4AAA batteries which is exactly what I wanted.

Now, I'm wanting to build a mod out of a small LED flashlight I found at the dollar store. But I need someone to provide me with a simple to understand diagram because I'm MOD-challenged.

I want it to run on 3AAA batteries and inside it has a battery holder like this one...

Hold 3 Aaa Battery Holder Box Case For Flashlight,Black - Buy Battery Holder,Battery Box,Battery Case Product on Alibaba.com

and a master on off switch on the bottom of the flashlight.

Assuming I get a pre-wired 510 atty connector, and I want to use a very small momentary switch and a small LED light, how should I wire this thing?

If you can, keep it super simple.

I appreciate any help.

This is the flashlight I'm using which I hope isn't too small.

Bulk Metal LED Travel Flashlights, 3¼" at DollarTree.com

 

[Tarnacc]

It has been a while since I mucked around with making any of my own mods so take whatever I say with a grain of salt. Having said that, it is no different then the puck you already made. It does not appear the battery tube you pictured has any leads so you will need to solder leads on to the end caps.

As for the switch, it is really up to your imagination. there are tons of threads detailing the modding of that particular flashlight though most folks just use a single 18650 instead of 3 AAA. I made several of those flashlights into mods and my favorite used a very beefy mechanical switch. I remember seeing a very nice write up on converting the existing switch into a momentary. I did that myself a few times as well.

the tricky bit is the top cap. For mine I used a large fender washer and ground it down to where I could press fit it in to the top of the flash light.

Oh I just saw the part about you wanting a master on/off. I suppose you could re-purpose the bottom switch for that but you would then need to drill a hole for the momentary somewhere in the top part of the body.

 

[Tarnacc]

by the way, what kind of batteries are you planning on using?

 

[Tarnacc]

there does not seem to be much interest in the flashlight modding anymore. Go back a year and there are a ton. Here is one to get you started.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...asic-wire-diagram-flashlight-mod-diagram.html

Of course be careful about stacking batteries and providing venting. I am assuming that you are planning on using NiMH but I wanted to throw that in there just in case.

 

[Kidnapped]

Thanks for the link; since, I'm interested in tinkering, too.

 

[Vapor Vinny]

I used that flashlight from the dollar tree (aluminum) and then bought a second one and used the bottom switch as as my end cap because when you pop at the master on/off button, there is a plastic ring with a hole in hit that, with a little work, can hold the atomizer connection. I bored a hole for the button. I guess my bigger question is how many volts can I expect from using 3AAA batteries, instead of 4?

 

[Tarnacc]

understanding of course that I am no authority on the topic but the voltage is dependent on the batteries you are using. I believe you are using NiMH batteries but you have not actually specified this. If that is the case then your voltage should be 3.6

 

[TomCatt]

With my Pucks, using 4AAA NiMH batteries, I had around 0.8-0.9V dropoff under load. NiMH batts come off the charger at 1.4V; 4 gave me 5.6V; and with the dropoff using 3.2 ohm cartos, vaped at ~4.8V. With the AAA batts, lower ohm atties/cartos would have a larger voltage dropoff. However, others have used AA batts and LR atties/cartos.

 

[Schnarph]

With my Pucks, using 4AAA NiMH batteries, I had around 0.8-0.9V dropoff under load. NiMH batts come off the charger at 1.4V; 4 gave me 5.6V; and with the dropoff using 3.2 ohm cartos, vaped at ~4.8V. With the AAA batts, lower ohm atties/cartos would have a larger voltage dropoff. However, others have used AA batts and LR atties/cartos.

Another noob here - I have similar plans for a couple of flashlights using 3xAAA NiMH batteries. I hoping for 3.6v while using 2ohm cartos and 2.2ohm clearos, often I go as low as 3.3v. I've never had a problem vaping at 3.7v with 2-2.2ohm coils as I like my vape on the cool side. If I was using 3ohm cartos I would probably find that 4.8v was just fine, but I'm not doing that just yet. My plan is to use the end cap switch as a master on/off, and put a small momentary switch on the side near the top. I assumed this setup was very similar to the PUCK. If I won't get 3.6v out of this setup, I would love to know before I waste my time and destroy a flashlight for nothing. Not for nothing, I could always try to fit a 14500 in it, but I'd like to keep this first attempt at modding as cheap as possible. Also, will a .5 amp momentary switch work as is or will I need a MOSFET? Are there any other/better options than a MOSFET or larger amp switch? I have capacitors if that would help. BTW, I won't be chain vaping on this thing.

Many thanks in advance for your time helping a noob on a tight vaping budget. Any relevant advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[LucentShadow]

Another noob here - I have similar plans for a couple of flashlights using 3xAAA NiMH batteries. I hoping for 3.6v while using 2ohm cartos and 2.2ohm clearos, often I go as low as 3.3v. I've never had a problem vaping at 3.7v with 2-2.2ohm coils as I like my vape on the cool side. If I was using 3ohm cartos I would probably find that 4.8v was just fine, but I'm not doing that just yet. My plan is to use the end cap switch as a master on/off, and put a small momentary switch on the side near the top. I assumed this setup was very similar to the PUCK. If I won't get 3.6v out of this setup, I would love to know before I waste my time and destroy a flashlight for nothing. Not for nothing, I could always try to fit a 14500 in it, but I'd like to keep this first attempt at modding as cheap as possible. Also, will a .5 amp momentary switch work as is or will I need a MOSFET? Are there any other/better options than a MOSFET or larger amp switch? I have capacitors if that would help. BTW, I won't be chain vaping on this thing.

Many thanks in advance for your time helping a noob on a tight vaping budget. Any relevant advice would be greatly appreciated!

Most NiMH AAA batteries are around 800mah, and you'd be pushing those at more than 2C. Voltage under load would likely drop to an unsatisfactory level. I've experienced that myself when running a 4AAA Puck with only 3AAA.

If it's one of those lights that uses a cylindrical insert that holds 3AAA batteries, I think that it's likely that you could fit an 18500 IMR, or an 18490, in it's place. IMRs are built for high-drain, and should work great if they fit.

It's hard to say if the switch will work. If it's rated for up around 120v at .5A, it would probably be fine. I've found that figuring the wattage of the rating gives a decent indication of their suitability, but not in every case. Something with some beefy contacts is always good, but it's difficult to know what's in them without dissecting one.

 

[Schnarph]

Most NiMH AAA batteries are around 800mah, and you'd be pushing those at more than 2C. Voltage under load would likely drop to an unsatisfactory level. I've experienced that myself when running a 4AAA Puck with only 3AAA.

If it's one of those lights that uses a cylindrical insert that holds 3AAA batteries, I think that it's likely that you could fit an 18500 IMR, or an 18490, in it's place. IMRs are built for high-drain, and should work great if they fit.

It's hard to say if the switch will work. If it's rated for up around 120v at .5A, it would probably be fine. I've found that figuring the wattage of the rating gives a decent indication of their suitability, but not in every case. Something with some beefy contacts is always good, but it's difficult to know what's in them without dissecting one.

That's a bummer to hear. I have a few extra AA and AAA NiMH batteries that I was hoping to use in a mod. I'll save the flashlight project for later when I have some 16500 or 18500 batteries and a charger, checking the measurements first to see what fits. The flashlight is "one of those lights that uses a cylindrical insert that holds 3AAA batteries". I haven' looked up the spec sizes of 16500 and 18500 vs the 3AAA cylinders.
The AA NiMH batteries that I have are rated at 1900mah, and I have plans for a double 2xAA PUCK style box mod using only 3AAs to get 3.6v. That should work, yes?
For a flashlight mod, it's hard to find room for a switch higher than 120v at .5A. A 3AA PUCK made from 2 double AA boxes leaves an empty AA slot with plenty of room for almost any switch.
If 3AAs is not enough, I could use 4 in an project box, but 4.8v is no good for all my 2-2.2 ohm cartos and clearos. I would need to go VV for that, and I would want a LED display, also. That comes to about twice what a 3AA box mod without VV would cost. It's all pretty cheap anyways, as long as I can use NiMH batteries which I already have and can get more of anywhere. Or I could stick with the 4.8v as is, get some 3ohm cartos and give my 2.2ohm clearo heads the boot. Clearo heads @ 3ohms and higher aren't too easy to find.

Thanks for the advice and info LucentShadow, you've given me a lot to consider. Flashlights can wait for Li-Ion batteries. I have a couple of Maglite Solitaires that are begging for a 10440 and an auto switch. If any of these ideas other than the Solitaires sounds like a waste of time, I would love to know. There must be some advantages to Ni-MH batteries and I would really like to make this work!

 

[LucentShadow]

Yes, 3AA should work fine. I've used that setup with good results, using some 2500mah cells. Even with 1900mah, you'd only be pushing them at around 1C using 2 ohms, which should be well within their capabilities.

NiMH tend to remain pretty flat on the output voltage, so when you notice a drop-off in performance it's time to recharge.

I've never used 10440 Li-ions. I would guess that typical protected ones would also be a bit anemic at that size. Perhaps IMR would work better. You may want to see what you can find on that size in regards to high-drain applications. Those would probably be more in the range of 350mah, which would be discharged at around 5C when running around 1.75 amps.

 

[Schnarph]

Thanks again LucentShadow, I figured 3AAs would do the trick. When you already own the batteries like many people do, it's an $8 mod. At that price I could shell out the $6.50 for a really good 3amp switch. I don't suppose you would know if a 3AA battery box fits inside of an Altoids tin with room to spare above it for a switch and a fully recessed 510 connection? It's not really important, I'm just looking at options.


To return to a topic closer to the OP, a standard 3xAAA flashlight's batter cylinder is about 2-2.25 inches long by .875 inches wide, usually with just a little room to spare in both directions. I have 3 in various sizes, and took some measurements to confirm this. The 3xAAA cylinder can only be replaced with 18500 battery, just like you said. Luckily the go to place for these projects has EH IMR 18500s for pretty cheap, and protected KrappyFire Li-Ion's for a bit more. Some 3xAAA flashlights have a lot more room in the bulb area than others for switches and LEDs. I would really like to make a 3.5 - 4 inch Bolt type mod myself, maybe even better than the original in some ways.

One last question- if I can only fit a .5A or smaller switch in the bulb area is a MOSFET the best/only choice for keeping the switch from burning out? The reviews on switches indicate that the small cheap ones don't last very long. The C&K 3A switch is the only one that gives me confidence. Just guessing here, but it seems that you get what you pay for with items like batteries and switches.

 

[LucentShadow]

Thanks again LucentShadow, I figured 3AAs would do the trick. When you already own the batteries like many people do, it's an $8 mod. At that price I could shell out the $6.50 for a really good 3amp switch. I don't suppose you would know if a 3AA battery box fits inside of an Altoids tin with room to spare above it for a switch and a fully recessed 510 connection? It's not really important, I'm just looking at options.


To return to a topic closer to the OP, a standard 3xAAA flashlight's batter cylinder is about 2-2.25 inches long by .875 inches wide, usually with just a little room to spare in both directions. I have 3 in various sizes, and took some measurements to confirm this. The 3xAAA cylinder can only be replaced with 18500 battery, just like you said. Luckily the go to place for these projects has EH IMR 18500s for pretty cheap, and protected KrappyFire Li-Ion's for a bit more. Some 3xAAA flashlights have a lot more room for in the bulb area than others for switches and LEDs. I would really like to make a 3.5 - 4 inch Bolt type mod myself, maybe even more durable than the original.

One last question- if I can only fit a .5A or smaller switch in the bulb area is a MOSFET the best/only choice for keeping the switch from burning out? The reviews on switches indicate that the small cheap ones don't last very long. The C&K 3A switch is the only one that gives me confidence. Just guessing here, but it seems that you get what you pay for with items like batteries and switches.

I have no idea about the altoid tins, sorry. I used a 4AA plastic enclosure, and stuffed a button, LED with resistor, and connector in the 4th bay.

I have had decent luck with ~120v ~.5A momentary switches from Radio Shack and Mad Vapes, running at about the same amperage as you intend. Kind of hit and miss, though, so I always look for ones that install with a locking nut (no epoxy), so they are easy enough to replace.

I plan on making a nice aluminum 18650 mod soon, and will be looking for a more reliable button such as a C&K. I wouldn't mind putting a cheaper one that I have on-hand in there to try, as long as it comes out easily.

 

[Schnarph]

I have no idea about the altoid tins, sorry. I used a 4AA plastic enclosure, and stuffed a button, LED with resistor, and connector in the 4th bay.

I have had decent luck with ~120v ~.5A momentary switches from Radio Shack and Mad Vapes, running at about the same amperage as you intend. Kind of hit and miss, though, so I always look for ones that install with a locking nut (no epoxy), so they are easy enough to replace.

I plan on making a nice aluminum 18650 mod soon, and will be looking for a more reliable button such as a C&K. I wouldn't mind putting a cheaper one that I have on-hand in there to try, as long as it comes out easily.

After doing some measurements it seems a 3AA enclosure will fit in an altoids box with plenty of room for a 510 connector and any switch. I'm thinking that 2 double AA boxes back to back would make a better shape for holding in the hand as well as standing upright.

Thanks for your help on this, I am pretty sure I have all the info I need for now. When I get something made I'll post some pics or change my avatar.

 

[liblue1]

I don't know how I can help you with this. All these are 4 AAA boxes. I mostly use the owl bling for going out & carrying around my neck in a pouch. They all have the same type of button.
The tin box I used is larger with no on/off switch, since I don't need to worry about portability so much. I made my first one from Radio shack parts. Since then I buy what I need from Mad vapes. I figure if they sell it, it's OK to use. I know you want a flashlight mod, but I have no need for that, I use the same parts for all my mods.
The wood box(Elvis) I used is very large and sits on the table also with no on/off switch, just an led on top.
I use mostly Phoenix's the 2.6-2.8 and don't have any problems with the ohms. Just be careful when you put fresh batteries in, as it may burn the wicks. After a few soft, short hits it is good to go for the day. I have tried a 2.2 Atty, and it is ok, just a little hot. Oh and I am useing SR Boge in my newest tank and they work fantastic.
I hope this helps you some. Let me know how they come out. Good luck and be safe

 

[Schnarph]

Flashlight mod complete, PUCK skipped for now, the parts are still waiting in a box. I'm rethinking the plastic battery compartment look, project boxes and found items/thrift store enclosures offer much more artistic variety. This flashlight is not artistic at all, but the right item could make a great, unique mod.

It's not perfect at all, but being my first try, it's pretty good. It barely worked before I added a thick copper strip going from the bottom of the battery up through the tube to the top to attach to the 510 connection. Cheap aluminum flashlights don't conduct well at all, it's amazing they produce enough light to see with. There are no shorts but the switch/LED/510 connector area has too much wire. This is not a true "mech" mod and there is plenty of room in the area above the 18650 battery.

I should post a picture, and continue bumping this thread. More people should make these, the parts are very cheap. Including the flashlight, switch, LED, and washers but not the the copper strip, glue solder, etc. this cost me under $15. I had fun and learned a lot. When it breaks I will be able to fix it myself.


Parts: $5 aluminum 3xAAA flashlight(with a freakin' laser beam!) from Amazon. Battery cylinder, laser, LED and housing, springs, and switch removed. Plastic switch housing kept for spacer/positive battery terminal mount and new switch mount. 18650 IMR battery, C&K 3 Amp switch, polished copper plate strip contacts from bottom to top, purple LED behind switch made from carto condom, 510 connection mounted in washers all installed. Drunker tank on top. It works perfectly, but it could use some hot glue and/or JBWeld in a few places since it is still in test phase. It's been working so well for the past 8 hours I haven't gotten around to opening it pack up yet.

To the left is an 1000mah Ego passthrough with a Kanger T2 on top, for scale.

 

[lisancentraltx]

Uhhhhhhhh, yeah.... that looks mighty fine, Schnarph! I am sending you my broken PVs when I have cash to spare! Use what you can and keep creating! Just remember me when you have a lightweight ladies version made!