Please Help!
- Thread starter AgentMuffinz
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It seems the coil is shorted. You can use the tiny scredriver to adjust the distance of each coils, also move the wick up and down to help in building up the oxidation among the wick and coil.
i've gotten it to work and not glow at one spot, but it still tastes burnt... I give up.
One more thing you should try is making sure the air hole align with the coil properly.
take a good, close look at the coil, make sure that every part of the coil is in contact with the wick. If just a tiny portion of the coil is off the wick, you'll get the metallic or burnt taste. This is very important. Here's a pic of a coil in my rsst, see how every part of the coil is in contact with the wick?
30g is pretty easy to work with. Also, on my DIDs.. I wrap my wick out of the device. With the negative screw being a thumb screw and sticking up so high, it's hard to wrap the coil around the wick while it's in the device.. it can be done but it's easier for me if I stick a paper clip or something down through the coil and wrap it. Is this a real DID or one of the clones? If it's a clone, I never could get mine to work properly for any length of time. My real DIDs rock. They're tricky to get setup properly but when they are, they're great. If it's a mmvapor's DID, you can visit the subforum and ask questions.. these people are super helpful and helped me out a lot when I first got mine.
If it's a real DID, the top cap will screw on and line up perfectly.
If this in one of the mini clones, you still need to make sure you have complete wick to coil contact.
I second this. That's the only trouble, for me, with a genesis. I have some piano wire I bought from a hobby store (don't ask me why, I just felt like buying piano wire), and have found a use for it in my genesis builds. I roll my wick around it, which gives me a virtually solid wick. I stick my wick in the hole (which is also what she said) with the piano wire in it, and this lets me hold the wick firm as I wrap the coil. I wrap as tightly as I can without damaging the wick. This is also why I don't trust the Peter K method.
I've also found quick wraps to be better than slow wraps... meaning, I just swoop the wire around and around and don't stop 'til it's trapped at the positive, then I adjust if needed. I used to wrap slowly and carefully, but I usually had the gap problems doing this. Remember the old shoelace phrase? Loop, swoop and pull.
Did you thoroughly clean your DID first to get rid of any machine oil left from the manufacturing process? No real point in troubleshooting wicks and coils until that's taken care of.
I remove all o-rings and plastic parts and wash those with soap. Then I leave the metal parts to soak in 95% alcohol. Then wipe all metal parts with paper. Might repeat the soak step if there's lots of gunk left on the paper. Then, wash thoroughly with water and dry. Probably many ways to do this, but this one works for me.
I remove all o-rings and plastic parts and wash those with soap. Then I leave the metal parts to soak in 95% alcohol. Then wipe all metal parts with paper. Might repeat the soak step if there's lots of gunk left on the paper. Then, wash thoroughly with water and dry. Probably many ways to do this, but this one works for me.
I have built countless sub-ohm coils on AC9, RSST, duals on the Arrow, and never had difficulty like I do with the DID (short version). I'm not sure what it is about the design that makes it more prone to hotspots.
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