I generally think that more money=better but imo smaller tip is most important I prefer a shorter,less shaky, iron and I like that I can throw it in a little case w tops n soldier n Flux and put it away vs. planting it on my desk to collect dust with it. Small tip, that's my opinion.
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I got the Hakko FX888D from Amazon and could not be happier. It has made soldering the boards and connectors in the Gdna (and anything else) a piece of cake.
If you get that one read the review of July 3, 2013 by Chris Dragon. He gives detailed instructions for the station. The instructions that come with the unit are incomplete.
PS really like the white bodies. Are they the polished?
If you get that one read the review of July 3, 2013 by Chris Dragon. He gives detailed instructions for the station. The instructions that come with the unit are incomplete.
PS really like the white bodies. Are they the polished?
Yes they are polished. One came as a super tight fit and needed a little bit of sanding to slide the internals in, the other was absolutely perfect. I actually wish it was a little tighter because I imagine they are going to loosen up the more they get used.
I think I'll leave one of them just white with the black accents and just clear coat it, but the other I'll probably have hydro-coated at that local place we talked about. I'm also thinking of getting another one in bright yellow with the black accents..... my Pekochu mod.
Sigh... I really was not planning on spending $100 on a soldering iron for a project someone tempted me with...... but ironically I was just given a $100 visa gift card yesterday as a thank you for work I did for a friend. It might be a sign.....
Ken, these are a good soldering iron, even if they cost twice or more the asking price.
Soldering Station with Adjustable Heat Range (US Warehouse)
I have a friend who is a competent solderer and he loves his, he built a couple of tube amplifiers and various other electronics projects and its still going strong. I have checked it out, looks excellent value for money. I think it takes Hakko 936 tips. I checked out a new cheap Hakko in Oz a year or more ago and it didn't impress me with its cheap build, they are not what they used to be 10 or 15 years ago.
Regarding tip size, you want the largest tip you can comfortably use without it being too big to do the job (comfortable access without burning other things). The larger the tip, the greater the heat reserve, and the less damage done to the parts you are soldering by overheating them, because the parts get soldered close to the correct temperature in a shorter time frame, so you get less heat soak into areas where you don't want heat to go. I soldered a DNA40 board the other day and the tiny rings around the holes pretending to be pads are difficult to solder with a larger tip, also the holes are closely spaced. I would use a 1.6mm chisel tip or similar if given the choice for the board itself, and a 3mm chisel everywhere else if I could.
Soldering Station with Adjustable Heat Range (US Warehouse)
I have a friend who is a competent solderer and he loves his, he built a couple of tube amplifiers and various other electronics projects and its still going strong. I have checked it out, looks excellent value for money. I think it takes Hakko 936 tips. I checked out a new cheap Hakko in Oz a year or more ago and it didn't impress me with its cheap build, they are not what they used to be 10 or 15 years ago.
Regarding tip size, you want the largest tip you can comfortably use without it being too big to do the job (comfortable access without burning other things). The larger the tip, the greater the heat reserve, and the less damage done to the parts you are soldering by overheating them, because the parts get soldered close to the correct temperature in a shorter time frame, so you get less heat soak into areas where you don't want heat to go. I soldered a DNA40 board the other day and the tiny rings around the holes pretending to be pads are difficult to solder with a larger tip, also the holes are closely spaced. I would use a 1.6mm chisel tip or similar if given the choice for the board itself, and a 3mm chisel everywhere else if I could.
Well I used a cheap soldering iron for 10€ with 30 watts. A thinner tip and probably a little less watts would have been better but it still worked fine.
That one I linked is 60 watts, ceramic heating element, temp controlled, the ones supplied to Oz come with a finer tip than I would like to use, can't go wrong. The temp control makes all the difference, it is a must have for reliable soldering work (and nice shiny joints). And especially where we are dealing with low voltage and high current with our ecig mods, where every milliohm of resistance counts, the quality of soldering can make or break a mod's performance, if not in the short term, then in the long term.
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I very briefly put a Sculpteo cap on my existing body to test just this, fit perfectly (well, needs a tiny bit of fitting for the ring, but we're talking a few swipes of sandpaper).
I went to harbor freight today cause the wife wanted to get some stuff (oh darn!). I found a small hemostat that turns out it works very well to hold the nut for the 510 when screwing that in to the top cap. a standard size doesn't quite fit into the notches in that nut but this smaller size just fits.
Heh... Were you like me... running around the store with calipers and strange objects trying to fit random merchandise to them? All the clerks in my local stores stopped asking if they can help me a long time ago.
Heh... Were you like me... running around the store with calipers and strange objects trying to fit random merchandise to them? All the clerks in my local stores stopped asking if they can help me a long time ago.
The Ace Hardware guys just look the other way and slither off when they see me come into the store.
I haven't read much of this thread lately, but if anyone is interested in putting one of these together for me it would make my day. I'm sure I asked in the past, but I figure with more folks having done this now its worth asking again. Please shoot me a PM if interested.
Fatdaddy just posted this video on his RDA BF KIT.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMnr59AZkP4&noredirect=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMnr59AZkP4&noredirect=1
Not sure FD really gets it, that's not how it should work, theres no excess juice pullback
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Well, it's a good concept if you have a favorite atty that you want to convert into a BF atty.
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