Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Maybe...I dont have any on hand to test. It looks like they have a different type of sealing ring. But if you have the length of the bottle, I can see if it will fit.
Alright I'll work on getting myself verified, then I'll try to get back in here for a coop buy
Congratulations on such a stunning mod!!! has someone made a mech out of this??
I havent seen one yet, but if I was going to do a mechanical version, I would just do a redesign. Probably could bring the device size down about 20% in width and height.
I used the vapage bottle for awhile, found out I didn't like it as well. The juice capacity is greater but the useable capacity is about the same and I like the feel of Robs regular 6ml bottle better, maybe because I am used to it. The vapage bottle is thinner walled which I thought might make squonking a little easier but I found I like the tactile response of the REO bottle better.
That being said, the overall height with an O-ring under the cap, the best way I found to seal it, is right at 52mm.
Last edited:
Evolv guarantees that the dna will work underwater pbusardo just did a factory tour and it was a topic of conversation.
Conformal coating
Starts at 11:10
BTW Mundy was happy to already be versed in this on eevblog mailbag, it would have been a wet dream for ya back then, when awesome..
EEVBlog :Clicky:
http://youtu.be/ofCXpIuFhno?t=24m26s
Last edited:
water and ejuice are 2 different things, I've seen ejuice eat up that conformal coating, and even if the dna still works it does kinda suck using it without the display
Nice!
Me, I like to live dangerously and took pdib's approach; I cut the dropper top to produce a tight fit around the tubing and it has never leaked.
However, I'm also using the tubing pdib recommended, which is higher durometer, and that may make a difference. Anyway, this avoids all "screwing around" with the bottle during refills.
---------------------------------
Now here's some random build pics:
Fuse soldered to lower battery connector:
Hint: Fit the battery contact first. Then remove it and 'tin' it with a blob of solder. It takes quite a bit of heat to get the flux in the solder to do its job and allow the solder to flow. Then put the battery contact in and solder your fuse assembly (pre-soldered together) to it. This minimizes the amount of heat you need to apply to join the two and thereby minimizes the chance of melting plastic.
DNA with wires attached:
Frame wired:
(Blue sharpie marks optional -- I was noodling on something -- don't ask)
If you've got a sharp eye, you'll notice that the positive output wire has been re-worked. I originally had that wire going to one of the connector pins on the right, but when I started wiring the cap, I decided that this was very much sub-optimal. You'll also notice the extra black ground wire. It's not needed, but I like symmetry.
As you can see in the previous picture, those grounds are commoned in the cap. The problem in the cap is that you've got three ground wires (one from the negative battery terminal, one from the firing switch, and one to the 510 ground all needing to get connected together in one place. Trying to solder 3 wires to just one connector pin is a total PITA, so I used both pins of that connector as a common ground point. It's still not beautiful, but it works:
One of the advantages of wiring this mod so the battery's positive is at the bottom is that there's virtually no current flowing in any of the ground wires to the DNA. That current flow stays in the cap -- it goes straight from the upper (negative) battery contact to the ground side of the 510. From the positive side of the battery at the bottom, current flows into the DNA at the bottom and comes out at the top. That's the second benefit: The overall current path is considerably shorter and has one less connector to go through. That means fewer losses.
The catch is you must remember to install your battery "upside down" every time. I smoked the DNA in my V3.0 based "Franken build" in a moment of thoughtlessness (I was distracted). The fuses did not save it. I will NOT let that happen again!
How did you keep the plastic looking white? Did u wear gloves during the build? I was just scuff sanding mine and it looks all dirty already just from that.
Got any pics showing the solder to 510 nuts and washers?
bookmark this page, folks! That's how it's properly done.
Got any pics showing the solder to 510 nuts and washers?
bookmark this page, folks! That's how it's properly done.
Last edited:
My wife insists that I keep my hands clean!
No, but I'll take some the next time I build a cap. However, that won't be until next week. I'm up in PA for non-stop meetings this week.
I'm a left-handed vaper. I'm not left-handed per se, but I need to keep my right hand free for such things as my computer mouse, steering wheel, etc.
An advantage of the printed DNA 30 mod is that with the buttons and display on the bottom and the fire button up top, it is neutral-handed. : )
An advantage of the printed DNA 30 mod is that with the buttons and display on the bottom and the fire button up top, it is neutral-handed. : )
I kept my hands clean and wore gloves. My first during the beta is straight nasty.
I'm a left handed vaper as well. Also the squonk hole in this position doesnt require me to take my thumb off the trigger....I love my Reo but I always felt like I was vaping it backwards.
- Status
Similar threads
