Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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I get the issue with magnets and stationary contact points. My dibi needs perfect alignment, but I have had no problems (many months) once I did the initial alignment. ( I understand you are a little rougher on yours...
) But with the combination here of the spring pins putting positive pressure on the contacts and the top magnets slotting into recesses in the body, the top cap on V1 has no movement at all. One thing nice about printing the body parts is that you can design-in precision of dimension, holes, placement, etc. For example, I also have ledges that the magnets rest against inside the hole, so all your do is push them in as far as they can go. They have a precise stopping point so I end up with a .5 mm gap between the two sets of magnets with the top in place, so no actual magnet-magnet contact occurs. Just perfect alignment.
But...the dean connector while not as slick, could be a good straight forward alternative. I just need to see how I can fit a version in to the space available and dimension the body parts so its close to plug-n-play assembly.
yeah, I considered spring loaded connector on the dibi but the problem is like you said, the contact spring pressure counteracts the magnets holding power.
magnets are not bad and some may love them, especially if you're not rough on your mods, but like you said, I am rough and I look for bulletproof can't tell you how many times I've held my dibi from the atty and then had the body knocked out of place and fall to the floor, or hold it from the body and knock the atty into something, folding the cap over and having it pop off, or pulled it from a pocket and winded up just pulling the head out while the body stayed in my pocket, yet I'm sure there are many others who have never had any of these problems too. best of luck with whatever you decide to go with, just wanted to give some input that might help I really love the layout of your mod, I want to build something similar now with the dna between the bat and bottle and the screen on the bottom, pretty ingenious design
magnets are not bad and some may love them, especially if you're not rough on your mods, but like you said, I am rough and I look for bulletproof
can't tell you how many times I've held my dibi from the atty and then had the body knocked out of place and fall to the floor, or hold it from the body and knock the atty into something, folding the cap over and having it pop off, or pulled it from a pocket and winded up just pulling the head out while the body stayed in my pocket, yet I'm sure there are many others who have never had any of these problems too. best of luck with whatever you decide to go with, just wanted to give some input that might help I really love the layout of your mod, I want to build something similar now with the dna between the bat and bottle and the screen on the bottom, pretty ingenious design ok...V2 came in.
This version takes a new approach.
The concept is to fully assemble the DNA and all connections prior to inserting into the body. There is a skeleton structure which holds the DNA chip and secures the DNA screen in the base window. The connectors to the top cap for the skeleton slide in from the top and can be soldered in place with good access. Wattage control button remain in the same location. After wiring up the DNA, side walls are attached to the skeleton to separate juice and battery tubes. Then the whole unit just slides into the body. The top cap components are a bit complex, but essentially they are designed for access to solder the top cap connectors. This version uses magnets as well to keep things tight.
First up:
Parts received from Shapeways. I sprued all the parts together so essentialy I only needed to order three parts. The internal components are in white, strong flexible, the skeleton and fire button are in black detail and the body is alumide.
Here is the internal structure assembled (Top and Bottom). The top cap on the side has an extra alternate interior component design in it.
Side by side with V1 for size comparison:
So you may have noticed the black detail components look a bit rough. They are. I was a bit disappointed here, these pieces did not have glossy smoothness that black detail usually has. I have message into shapeways on this, I assume they will make good and reprint for free.
Here is a better look at what I am talking about:
So thats the bad news, this build is going to have to wait for redos from Shapeways. The good news is that all the parts fit really well. The precision in Shapeways sizing is remarkable.
Oh... and the even better news is that I received the shipping notice for V3.
It has less parts, is more tightly integrated and has a better overall body design. And I added a few bonus elements to really spice things up
This version takes a new approach.
The concept is to fully assemble the DNA and all connections prior to inserting into the body. There is a skeleton structure which holds the DNA chip and secures the DNA screen in the base window. The connectors to the top cap for the skeleton slide in from the top and can be soldered in place with good access. Wattage control button remain in the same location. After wiring up the DNA, side walls are attached to the skeleton to separate juice and battery tubes. Then the whole unit just slides into the body. The top cap components are a bit complex, but essentially they are designed for access to solder the top cap connectors. This version uses magnets as well to keep things tight.
First up:
Parts received from Shapeways. I sprued all the parts together so essentialy I only needed to order three parts. The internal components are in white, strong flexible, the skeleton and fire button are in black detail and the body is alumide.
Here is the internal structure assembled (Top and Bottom). The top cap on the side has an extra alternate interior component design in it.
Side by side with V1 for size comparison:
So you may have noticed the black detail components look a bit rough. They are. I was a bit disappointed here, these pieces did not have glossy smoothness that black detail usually has. I have message into shapeways on this, I assume they will make good and reprint for free.
Here is a better look at what I am talking about:
So thats the bad news, this build is going to have to wait for redos from Shapeways. The good news is that all the parts fit really well. The precision in Shapeways sizing is remarkable.
Oh... and the even better news is that I received the shipping notice for V3.
It has less parts, is more tightly integrated and has a better overall body design. And I added a few bonus elements to really spice things up
This is possibly the coolest thing I have seen since falling in love with the Reo way of vaping. A modern regulated bottom feeder would be amazing.
I'm only 5 months into vaping and that that familiar with the history behind it, so I'm curious: Did Reo actually invent the bottom-feeding mod, or are they simply the most popular?
Rob did not invent it, but he made it reliable and commercially viable.
He does have a patent on the Grand.
So V3 came in but Shapeways missed on the z-axis dimension. They were 1.5 mm off on the height of the body. After a couple of emails back and forth, they found their calibration on the printer was off, so they are reprinting. So rather than wait, I decided to put V2 together. I sanded and polished up the rough black detail pieces I posted earlier. (Shapeways agree to reprint that piece for free as well).
This was great for soldering practice. The spaces are tight! I sprayed a coating of polyurathane on the shell and also removed some extra structures on the inner frame that werent needed. The spring pins needed to be relaxed a bit, the counter pressure was too much for the smaller magnets. I reduce the spring pin push force by about 50% through heating. The connections are solid all the way up to 30 watts, but I dont ever vape at that power level. I also replaced the battery spring with a mini battery terminal that reduce the overall height a couple of millimeters. And for good measure, added a fuse under that white shrink tube.
It came out pretty nice
Here is the build.
Parts:
Top cap inside:
Chip wired inside back:
Chip wired inside front:
Fully assembled and ready to go:
Final assembly:
Not too bad vs the dibi (my favorite mod.......)
Comes in at 157g fully loaded with juice, battery and cyclone atty. I am squonkin DNA style!
This was great for soldering practice. The spaces are tight! I sprayed a coating of polyurathane on the shell and also removed some extra structures on the inner frame that werent needed. The spring pins needed to be relaxed a bit, the counter pressure was too much for the smaller magnets. I reduce the spring pin push force by about 50% through heating. The connections are solid all the way up to 30 watts, but I dont ever vape at that power level. I also replaced the battery spring with a mini battery terminal that reduce the overall height a couple of millimeters. And for good measure, added a fuse under that white shrink tube.
It came out pretty nice
Here is the build.
Parts:
Top cap inside:
Chip wired inside back:
Chip wired inside front:
Fully assembled and ready to go:
Final assembly:
Not too bad vs the dibi (my favorite mod.......)
Comes in at 157g fully loaded with juice, battery and cyclone atty. I am squonkin DNA style!
AMAZING..... Such thinking going on here. Very clever use of available space, resulting in a very compact device. This is the best I have seen so far for a custom DNA mod. Brilliant. 
are you planning any kind of waterproofing? just a heads up, I've killed a couple of dna's already now with bottom feeders, the chip has like zero tolerance for juice contact. juice seems to really like wicking along wires to the chip too and this one is in a particularly vulnerable position. I'd say that's the one Achilles heal of the dna once you get past the whole not damaging the ribbon part
at least keep a close eye out for leaks, it only takes a surprisingly little amount of juice on the board to cause display problems
at least keep a close eye out for leaks, it only takes a surprisingly little amount of juice on the board to cause display problems
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What sort of waterproofing solutions are there? Potting with epoxy? I have some plastidip would that work?
https://www.plastidip.net.au/product/plasti-dipuv-18.9-yellow-29
https://www.plastidip.net.au/product/plasti-dipuv-18.9-yellow-29
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Wow. The efficiency of packaging you've achieved here is amazing.Not too bad vs the dibi (my favorite mod.......)
The dibi is prettier though.
The leak factor is a big risk. Plastidip looks like a possible solution (thanks laurie9300). Maybe a good coat on the wired skeleton will do the job. There are a couple of video's out there showing it being sprayed onto electronics for water proofing. Looks like the RC guys use it a lot for batteries too. Hopefully there is still enough clearance afterwards, that stuff looks thick. Seem like its removable as well?
Hmm... available at Home Depot.
Here' s vid of a guy waterproofing a board with the Liquid Tape spray version..he even dunks the board in water...lol
Yea...too bad Shapeways cant print wood.....
Hmm... available at Home Depot.
Here' s vid of a guy waterproofing a board with the Liquid Tape spray version..he even dunks the board in water...lol
The dibi is prettier though.
Yea...too bad Shapeways cant print wood.....
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