Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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i see somebody is getting antsy for friday to arrive! 
Again, I was basing this on the parts list in the discussion forum which states "fuses". So that tends to make one think that you're using fuses. If you are going through the trouble of protecting it from reverse battery insertion, why not add dead short protection? As for mounting, typically one mounts SMD type components instead of trying to float around a static sensitive device. I don't know which one you're using, but a lot of the circuits I saw for reverse battery protection circuits used a package type that make them conducive to mounting. Even the one Gdeal linked to earlier. Also a transistor does use energy to turn on The low voltage drop benefit, was only discussing source to drain. I am also curious about the DNA30 feedback capabilities for battery monitoring. Installing a FET inline would more than likely create the same scenario. It is in effect a diode that can be turned on or off. All I can say is try it. I never said the circuit I posted was better than another way. Only pointed out what I saw.
I have worked with electronics both professionally and as a hobby most of my life. Kataphraktos mentioned to me the other day that the beta group was trying to decide on reverse battery protection methods and this was just something I thought of which might be a possible way to accomplish. Really didn't expect a flogging from people who are trying to develop a beta design. Typically you would think they would want to see a plethora of scenarios to have more choice for a better final design. But hey, point taken, you'll are obviously much smarter than me. Sorry to have wasted a forum page. Time to go back to my easy chair anyway, this uses way too many brain cells which I am trying to kill.
sounds like it might work.Relax, nobody's flogging anyone.
The parts list does call for fuses; I believe the idea was that they would limit current enough in case of a reversed battery that they would prevent the DNA from being destroyed. That worked for one member of the beta creww, but not for others. We did indeed kick around doing it with a FET instead of fuses.
Remember, this is a DIY mod. Nothing prevents anyone from building it the way they want, whether that's with fuses, fuses and a diode, a FET, or bareback. I removed the fuses from my last build and went bareback after the fuses caused the DNA to reset every time I pressed the fire button. I suspect I got them too hot when I soldered then directly to the lower battery contact.
I like the FET better as a means of reverse battery protection because it simply never turns on if you install the battery backwards. With a diode and fuse, you've got a race which will blow first. As for power losses and effect on the DNA's ability to see the state of the battery, I believe they're about equal.
I did blow one DNA myself in a moment of inattention. It was in a very early build, which was not representative of the final design. Since then, I've simply been more careful about installing the battery. I always do a double-take before I put the upper back on. (Putting the battery in the lower backwards won't hurt anything until you install the upper).
Peace.
The parts list does call for fuses; I believe the idea was that they would limit current enough in case of a reversed battery that they would prevent the DNA from being destroyed. That worked for one member of the beta creww, but not for others. We did indeed kick around doing it with a FET instead of fuses.
Remember, this is a DIY mod. Nothing prevents anyone from building it the way they want, whether that's with fuses, fuses and a diode, a FET, or bareback. I removed the fuses from my last build and went bareback after the fuses caused the DNA to reset every time I pressed the fire button. I suspect I got them too hot when I soldered then directly to the lower battery contact.
I like the FET better as a means of reverse battery protection because it simply never turns on if you install the battery backwards. With a diode and fuse, you've got a race which will blow first. As for power losses and effect on the DNA's ability to see the state of the battery, I believe they're about equal.
I did blow one DNA myself in a moment of inattention. It was in a very early build, which was not representative of the final design. Since then, I've simply been more careful about installing the battery. I always do a double-take before I put the upper back on. (Putting the battery in the lower backwards won't hurt anything until you install the upper).
Peace.
ok...enough drama...any idea is a good idea. Its just a mod and there are always new and better ways to do things.
Drunk-J...did you notice Rossums sub-title "Surly Curmudgeon" ..dont let that innocent Dr. Strangelove picture lure your in.....
If you have a way of squeezing more bling into the device..its my thread so feel free to post.
Drunk-J...did you notice Rossums sub-title "Surly Curmudgeon" ..dont let that innocent Dr. Strangelove picture lure your in.....
If you have a way of squeezing more bling into the device..its my thread so feel free to post.
Semi gloss with polished bronze.
Slightly textured feel, easy to grip, grains throw off a subtle sparkle.
The gloss one is still too wet to handle.
Debating spraying one with matte/satin.
Slightly textured feel, easy to grip, grains throw off a subtle sparkle.
The gloss one is still too wet to handle.
Debating spraying one with matte/satin.
Jake you are still mean with your posts. But srs that looks beautiful.Semi gloss with polished bronze.
Slightly textured feel, easy to grip, grains throw off a subtle sparkle.
The gloss one is still too wet to handle.
Debating spraying one with matte/satin.
Semi gloss with polished bronze.
Slightly textured feel, easy to grip, grains throw off a subtle sparkle.
The gloss one is still too wet to handle.
Debating spraying one with matte/satin.
I think we have a winner!!
BSF
All I did was spray it with Minwax Poly per my previous post.
There's this weird sparkle to it that sucked me in.
It's about $6 more to get it dyed - it's originally made in WSF then dyed to a very thin level by SW.
Am planning to order some more in WSF and spray paint them, but for $3 extra bucks...... SW can dye them for me
I've been sacrificing parts and trying all this so everyone can get an idea of finishes.
For the record, I highly recommend sealing them. Period. End of story.
When a new part comes in I open the zip top bag carefully to let it acclimate.
Then I use nitrile gloves to handle until it's sprayed.
These things are very porous but beautiful, so I try to keep my grubby paws off them (HT to Rossum) until they are sealed.
Stay tuned for tomorrow's post - the new variety of metal rings and buttons are coming in
Semi-gloss poly on the left, 'raw' print on the right
Shapeways finally shipped my first set of parts today. These are dyed already though from before I found out about the Cerakote but I'm still kinda excited they finally shipped. Might even try to coat over them if I'm not happy with the colors.
Yes! keep the parts in the bag until you are ready to cleanout residual material or coat them. If an unsealed piece get some surface fuzz etc...you can use blue painters tape to pull it off. If the material gets slightly stained you can also wash it with some warm water and dish detergent.
I have both Duracoat and CeraKoat clears in all finishes, when my colored kit arrives I will be just clearing it and curing it.
You probably already know this...but just make sure you stay under 175F when you do your bake.
These shape way bottom feeders are pretty sexy but how much is it to buy all the individual parts?
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