Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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If you use the accent ring with an existing the body and top cap, you will need to tweak the height of the top cap by sanding the large opening by 2 or 3 mm depending on which body type you have, so that the internals connect properly. (the ring is currently 4 mm high) I could also make a new new "no-tweak" top cap part specially for the accent ring design, but its your call, I dont know if you have printed parts already or if you were looking for new ones.
OK, questions for the beta group.
When I dry fit all the parts, they dont quite sit flush into the accent ring. The ring sits flush if mated independently to the top OR the bottom shells, but when everything is put together the top rocks from side to side a bit, the pivot point being the center column of the bottom internal structure. The obstruction is clearly the top of the center column of the bottom internal assembly directly hitting the bottom of the internal 510/button deck preventing both top and bottom halves from fully seating into the accent ring.
When I dry fit all the parts, they dont quite sit flush into the accent ring. The ring sits flush if mated independently to the top OR the bottom shells, but when everything is put together the top rocks from side to side a bit, the pivot point being the center column of the bottom internal structure. The obstruction is clearly the top of the center column of the bottom internal assembly directly hitting the bottom of the internal 510/button deck preventing both top and bottom halves from fully seating into the accent ring.
- Will that bottom internal structure pull down into the bottom shell significantly more once the bottom screws are installed, thus making this a non-issue?
- If I have to sand off a few mils, am I better off sanding the top of the bottom internal structure, or the bottom of the 510/button deck? Or... maybe the top of the internal 510/button deck allowing it to seat deeper into the top shell?
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e.g. my kit dedicated to this project:
Jake, my birthday just passed, if you were wondering what to get me, just send me that kit (DNAs included of course)
I dont have calipers small enough to fit completely inside the accent ring, but it appears the inner lip is about 1.3mm thick.
When I squeeze the top and bottom halves together (without the accent ring in place) the gap (red circle) is about 2.2mm.
This extra ~.9mm allows the top to rock from side to side.
Reports of PLA parts melting in a hot closed car would give me pause.
ABS requires a higher extrusion temperature, heated bed and has a little less accuracy at sharp corners.
So the cheapest printers can use PLA only because it requires less hardware and thought in the cad process.
Accuracy with filament style printers depends on the extruder head, filament material, servos, and software, basically you get what you pay for.
I had to sand down the top of the internal parts a little.
Beats the alternative.
Beats the alternative.
OK, just tested the fit, it's fine here, I had to take a finger through the squonk hole, and push the internals down to the base of the shell, are you sure the base of the internals are touching the base of the shell?
Mike...what Bob said above...easy check is if the holes for the tact switches are flush against the internal surface of the body shell.
edit: Just for reference, this is from the v3.1 Build Doc. The tolerances are tight here and this can happen if your rail and groove have any residual material. (easily cleared) That tiny ledge can get hung up at the bottom.
edit: Just for reference, this is from the v3.1 Build Doc. The tolerances are tight here and this can happen if your rail and groove have any residual material. (easily cleared) That tiny ledge can get hung up at the bottom.
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A quick question. Does the body section have it's own bottom piece? or is the bottom part of the internal assembly?
I ordered the internal assembly a different colour than the body does that mean it will be a different colour on the bottom?
I ordered the internal assembly a different colour than the body does that mean it will be a different colour on the bottom?
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Yes the bottom surface is part of the body shell.
For quick reference....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z8gwrgh9p1jafnf/V3.1 Build.pdf
For quick reference....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z8gwrgh9p1jafnf/V3.1 Build.pdf
Yes, the tact switch hole plate of the internals is flat against the bottom, no clearance between the internals and the shell bottom at all.
Also, yes, last night I did have to clean out the groove of the battery bottom plate with an exacto knife to get it to slide on properly, it had nylon powder in the groove. I dont think that is the issue here as when I pull the internals back out, all of that is still lined up and locked in.
What about the top end. Maybe the 510/button deck isnt seated as deep as it should be. Is it normal to see this gap that I circled in red?
Should the area below the dna screen window be flat? Its not, there is a step between it and the bottom battery plate.
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Thank You
Yes the bottom surface is part of the body shell.
View attachment 373495
For quick reference....
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Mike the interior top 510 hole should sit flush with the shell top 510 hole,
Your interior bottom looks fine
Your interior bottom looks fine
Hmmm, there is a hairline crack there when viewed through the 510 hole. That gap I circled is bugging me, I didnt see that in any of the pics on the Build Doc. I am thinking that maybe I need shave a few mils off the top and bottom surfaces of the 510 internal deck. Maybe it is just a hair out of tolerance. Do the top first to get the inner 510 surfaces sitting flush, then take whatever else I need off the bottom.
COuld be, I've ordered abunch of these, but never had to shave them, but with 3D printing, who knows, just make sure there's no space between the interior and exterior cap when seated, before you shave
BobC is right on top of things here The holes for the 510 should be flush both the external and internal parts.
If they are flush, take a measurement of the height on the external and internal pieces and I will compare to the CAD.
The holes for the 510 should be flush both the external and internal parts.If they are flush, take a measurement of the height on the external and internal pieces and I will compare to the CAD.
Hmmm, there is a hairline crack there when viewed through the 510 hole. That gap I circled is bugging me, I didnt see that in any of the pics on the Build Doc. I am thinking that maybe I need shave a few mils off the top and bottom surfaces of the 510 internal deck. Maybe it is just a hair out of tolerance. Do the top first to get the inner 510 surfaces sitting flush, then take whatever else I need off the bottom.
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