Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Yes, sorry. I meant did you get the "beta" internals that Gdeal modified to print as a single piece in Alumide?
DNA40 build in progress.
Since the DNA40 board needs 8 wires soldered to it all within the top few mm, I decided the safest way to deal with it was to restrain it and the display in the frame during most of the soldering. That minimizes flexing of the reputedly fragile area where the display is soldered to the board. I used a relatively loose wrap of electrical tape for that purpose:
18 gauge high-strand wires don't fit through the new, bigger holes in the board any better than 20 gauge wires fit through smaller holes in the DNA30. I'm still cheating and removing a few strands before inserting the wires into the holes.
I'm pretty well convinced we could common the '-' side of the Up/Down switches (but not to battery ground!) however I did it by the book, with separate wires:
And the innards of the upper:
Somewhat surprisingly, neither side of the Fire switch seems to be commoned to anything at all, so it too got completely separate wire runs.
Sadly, that means my previous uppers won't be compatible with new DNA40 lowers.
I think I'm done for tonight.
Since the DNA40 board needs 8 wires soldered to it all within the top few mm, I decided the safest way to deal with it was to restrain it and the display in the frame during most of the soldering. That minimizes flexing of the reputedly fragile area where the display is soldered to the board. I used a relatively loose wrap of electrical tape for that purpose:
18 gauge high-strand wires don't fit through the new, bigger holes in the board any better than 20 gauge wires fit through smaller holes in the DNA30. I'm still cheating and removing a few strands before inserting the wires into the holes.
I'm pretty well convinced we could common the '-' side of the Up/Down switches (but not to battery ground!) however I did it by the book, with separate wires:
And the innards of the upper:
Somewhat surprisingly, neither side of the Fire switch seems to be commoned to anything at all, so it too got completely separate wire runs.
Sadly, that means my previous uppers won't be compatible with new DNA40 lowers.
I think I'm done for tonight.
DNA40 build in progress.
Since the DNA40 board needs 8 wires soldered to it all within the top few mm, I decided the safest way to deal with it was to restrain it and the display in the frame during most of the soldering. That minimizes flexing of the reputedly fragile area where the display is soldered to the board. I used a relatively loose wrap of electrical tape for that purpose:
18 gauge high-strand wires don't fit through the new, bigger holes in the board any better than 20 gauge wires fit through smaller holes in the DNA30. I'm still cheating and removing a few strands before inserting the wires into the holes.
I'm pretty well convinced we could common the '-' side of the Up/Down switches (but not to battery ground!) however I did it by the book, with separate wires:
And the innards of the upper:
Somewhat surprisingly, neither side of the Fire switch seems to be commoned to anything at all, so it too got completely separate wire runs.
Sadly, that means my previous uppers won't be compatible with new DNA40 lowers.
I think I'm done for tonight.
Extremely nice job Rossum! Different wiring than the DNA 30 setup which begs the question; will there be an addendum to the build doc for the use of a DNA 40?
Nice Post Rossum maybe gdeal can update the V3.1 build pdf for those of Us who plan on using the new chip 
How low do you plan on building, Evolve says a min of 16amps
Probably Samsung 25Rs.
Yeah, it is.
I forgot I was out of the Alps switches!
Strange, the 20g wire is a pretty loose fit in the new holes, I imagined 18g would be just fine. *sigh*
I meant to say "pm me for a ten percent off code" offer still stands but please only pm me if your going to place an order.
Would it be ok to just tin the wire and solder it on top of the hole instead of through it?
Yes. I will probably need to go through the build doc to make sure I'm "un-spruing" them apart correctly. I like to think my common sense will guide me..... I like to think that, but the reality is that I'll be double and triple check or I'll be spending extra time epoxying things back together.
DNA40 build in progress.
Since the DNA40 board needs 8 wires soldered to it all within the top few mm, I decided the safest way to deal with it was to restrain it and the display in the frame during most of the soldering. That minimizes flexing of the reputedly fragile area where the display is soldered to the board. I used a relatively loose wrap of electrical tape for that purpose:
I'm going to need a lot of help..... the most important question I have right now is do I cut the red wire or blue wire to stop the countdown before we all get blown to hell?
And why aren't action heroes ever color blind? The odds say that some of them have to be..... maybe those are the ones that don't make the cut for movies. You know 004 Randy Bouncedcheck.... (slightly balding with a spare tire and color blind) here to save the ...... BOOOM!
Next....
Our Greek god of Windex would be more than happy to walk you through skype... ain't that right, D?
Is this going to be your first time soldering?
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Does it count that I've used cheap soldering iron to melt a cracked solder connection back together again? Or to add a drop of solder to reconnect a loose wire? If that counts then no... I'm very experienced (almost a professional, nobody might say)..... if that doesn't count then yes I'm a total noob and have to remind myself not test to see if the iron is hot enough with my finger. (or tongue)
I have enough experience to know just enough to think I can do more than I actually can. Though I think I can get by with out an actual "this is how you melt solder. This is how you tin a wire." hand holding. I'm just worried about not being able to make clean enough connection on the DNA board without getting too much solder all over or using too much heat on the board and damaging it. I do not want to have to re-solder each connection 2-3 times to get it right.
I am going to order an new adjustable temp soldering station (Weller WLC100 40-Watt) rather than my Radio Shaack special, and grab some old PCB boards and try soldering a few wires to a few small connections and see exactly how bad I'm going to be at this. We shall see. It may be easier than I'm worrying about, but I know one thing. It's going to make me feel like I have monster hands. Just looking at those little connections makes my hands feel bigger. LOL
I'll worry more about this part when I actually get all the parts together and have a DNA board in hand.
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