Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[gdeal]

I updated the V3.1 Build Document. I made some additions and added in a section for the DNA40. Thanks to Rossum, TyCreek and Mamu for letting me use their pictures. I have been so swamped over the past two weeks between work and travel, I havent been able to get to my soldering station and do any builds. If anyone has suggestion for changes/additions, feel free to PM me.

Here is the link, (same one, just doc has been updated).

http://db.orangedox.com/llXebm6KVO2xeclsT9/V3.1 Build.pdf

 

[mikepetro]

I just received an email from Sculpteo. They are moving to a new system for how they price printing of their models. They mention this in the blog on their site today. Basically, they have moved pricing from a per model basis to a per part basis. This is not a good thing for this printed mod. I re-uploaded the same model for the "dna v3.1 all parts with Alps low" under a new name. The pricing on the model skyrocketed. Since there are 10 parts in the model and they now charge a $6 fee for each part. You can do the math. This is similar to what shapesways just did on their site. Bad news going forward......

However, good news for now, I have all my models uploaded at Sculpteo and it appears that they have not updated the prices for those models. I have no idea if they are grandfathering in all models prior to this change, or they just havent caught up to us yet.

So. If anyone was contemplating ordering either the v3.1 or the mechanical, they may want to take this into consideration. That and we still get 10% off with coupon "GDeal" for now.

They are strange. I had about $123 worth of "store credit" from the Alumide pieces they canceled. Ordered some some stuff today and checked out. Not once was my credit visible until after I clicked "Pay" which looked like ti would take me to PP, but instead it said the order was placed and paid with my Account Credit.

So bottom line is I got my credit, so all is good. They just dont give you a warm fuzzy along the way.

 

[gdeal]

They are strange. I had about $123 worth of "store credit" from the Alumide pieces they canceled. Ordered some some stuff today and checked out. Not once was my credit visible until after I clicked "Pay" which looked like ti would take me to PP, but instead it said the order was placed and paid with my Account Credit.

So bottom line is I got my credit, so all is good. They just dont give you a warm fuzzy along the way.

So you didnt get that screen that I posted? Credit option next to paypal.

 

[mackman]

DNA40 build in progress.

Since the DNA40 board needs 8 wires soldered to it all within the top few mm, I decided the safest way to deal with it was to restrain it and the display in the frame during most of the soldering. That minimizes flexing of the reputedly fragile area where the display is soldered to the board. I used a relatively loose wrap of electrical tape for that purpose:

18 gauge high-strand wires don't fit through the new, bigger holes in the board any better than 20 gauge wires fit through smaller holes in the DNA30. I'm still cheating and removing a few strands before inserting the wires into the holes.

I'm pretty well convinced we could common the '-' side of the Up/Down switches (but not to battery ground!) however I did it by the book, with separate wires:

And the innards of the upper:

Somewhat surprisingly, neither side of the Fire switch seems to be commoned to anything at all, so it too got completely separate wire runs.

Sadly, that means my previous uppers won't be compatible with new DNA40 lowers.

I think I'm done for tonight.

If I were to rewire my upper for the DNA40 as you have done here will it be compatible with the lower DNA30 while waiting on a DNA40 board? (trying to get ahead of the curve)

 

[mikepetro]

So you didnt get that screen that I posted? Credit option next to paypal.

Nope, and I was looking for it.... Maybe it was because my total was less than my credit.

 

[Rossum]

If I were to rewire my upper for the DNA40 as you have done here will it be compatible with the lower DNA30 while waiting on a DNA40 board? (trying to get ahead of the curve)

Since I have no idea how you wired your DNA30 lower, I can't say whether it would be compatible with the way I wired the 40. It's certainly possible to make it compatible. My guess is you'll need to add a wire to the lower for the fire switch.

 

[TyCreek]

Yep, exactly like that, with one exception: You have the polarity reversed on the Up connections (see page 8 of the data sheet). This doesn't really matter as long as you're using individual wires to the switches as shown, it's just that your wire colors will be inconsistent. Also, a meter indicates that we could common the '-' side of the Up and Down buttons, and it would be very important to note the polarity of the connections if one did that.

Updated:

 

[phibbus]

I just received an email from Sculpteo. They are moving to a new system for how they price printing of their models. They mention this in the blog on their site today. Basically, they have moved pricing from a per model basis to a per part basis. This is not a good thing for this printed mod. I re-uploaded the same model for the "DNA v3.1 all parts with Alps low" under a new name. The pricing on the model skyrocketed. Since there are 10 parts in the model and they now charge a $6 fee for each part. You can do the math. This is similar to what shapesways just did on their site. Bad news going forward......

However, good news for now, I have all my models uploaded at Sculpteo and it appears that they have not updated the prices for those models. I have no idea if they are grandfathering in all models prior to this change, or they just havent caught up to us yet.

So. If anyone was contemplating ordering either the v3.1 or the mechanical, they may want to take this into consideration. That and we still get 10% off with coupon "GDeal" for now.

OK, that settled it. One DNA v3.1 and two Pekos ordered from Sculpteo, complete models with all buttons in polished white. Using the "GDeal" 10% code, it all came to $196 and change.

Thanks so much again for everything. Don't know how you manage it with work and travel. In your debt.

 

[gdeal]

Thanks so much again for everything. Don't know how you manage it with work and travel. In your debt.

No problem...sleep is for the other guy. No debt..just have fun.

 

[gdeal]

Updated:
]

Ok Ty...now I need to update the build doc again.....

 

[Rossum]

Updated:

Yep, that wiring SHOULD work.

Are you sure Fire+ is connected to B+ inside the board as you're showing there? If so, I missed that when I was poking around with a meter.

Up- and Down- are internally connected to OUT. Which makes the above wire-color scheme kinda wrong, 'cause OUT is red and Up- and Down- are black.

 

[phibbus]

Updated:

Sweet. Now just animate it so I can follow along as I solder

For those in possession of one: are those reversed Up contacts labelled on the board? Definitely something I can see myself Magooing if I common it with the Down.

 

[mackman]

Since I have no idea how you wired your DNA30 lower, I can't say whether it would be compatible with the way I wired the 40. It's certainly possible to make it compatible. My guess is you'll need to add a wire to the lower for the fire switch.

Thanks Rossum I wired it like Mundy's diagram in the build doc.

 

[Rossum]

Mundy's drawing seems to have 510 on the transverse pins, whereas TyCreek and I have 'em on the longitudinal ones, which I think makes more sense 'cause it keeps the wires in the cap as short as possible. Then there's also the question which connector is which. At the very minimum, you're going to have to bridge two pins on your DNA30 lower. But what you really should do is double-chech and triple-check that everything matches up between lower and upper.

 

[TyCreek]

Yep, that wiring SHOULD work.

Are you sure Fire+ is connected to B+ inside the board as you're showing there? If so, I missed that when I was poking around with a meter.

Up- and Down- are internally connected to OUT. Which makes the above wire-color scheme kinda wrong, 'cause OUT is red and Up- and Down- are black.

I'm not sure of anything and don't have a TC board in hand yet. I just sketched out connections and common references from Evolve's pdf trying to help me get a visual of the wire connections.
The pdf lists pin 3 as Fire + and states Positive side of the fire button. Connects internally to B+
I don't see a reason/opportunity for use of pin 3 common with B+ in the Gdeal's DNA printed mod but other layouts might benefit.
Individual wires for each switch pole would be safe

 

[ValHeli]

Thank you so much guys! That's an awesome diagram

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I received an email also.

"Due to unexpected demand for our services, your item "DNA v3.1 All Parts - Ball Tact - Low Button - Thin Ring (Material: Polished white plastic)" may be slightly delayed for shipping.
We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this situation may cause.

We expect that the delay will be no more than a few days at most and you'll receive a new email with your package's tracking number the moment it's shipped.
We're sorry for not having been able to meet the delivery estimation provided and hope that you'll continue to trust us for your 3D Printing needs."

Only 1 day later than estimated and they are apologizing?

 

[mikepetro]

With all the discussion about the Fire Button wiring, and it being in common with B+ I thought this might be relevant here.

Copied from another forum (its by our Dr. G):

If you are using an external fire switch, take special care to note that one of the fire switch leads connects internally straight to battery power. If you ground that lead accidentally while assembling, you will start burning that internal pathway in seconds. If you catch it quickly enough the board will still work, but it will have the nasty burnt smell. If you don't catch it in time, you will likely destroy the board.

 

[OthatGuy]

Where is the best info on this, for those who are planning on running the 40 in this mod?

 

[ValHeli]

finally got a chance to build this one. The Nuppin and GDNA matches perfectly