I got a clone Veritas atty that I got for about 35 bucks. This thing is the most leak resistant atty I've owned to date. I also have the original that cost 3 times more. - they perform the same.
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Are you able to mod it for bottom feeding? Got a clone and gave up on it after I melted the insulator. Might give it another go if its a bf contender.
For BF conversion, try this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...pplier-forum/581604-catfish-atty-mods-28.html
Just got a Cyclone BF from him, love it
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...pplier-forum/581604-catfish-atty-mods-28.html
Just got a Cyclone BF from him, love it
If he does the screws, we're in like flint, his conversion kills the origen V2 BF 510
That was the plan, but I'm really enjoying it as is! LOL.. one of these days I'll get around to it
And we are back! The beta for V3 is wrapping up. We now have a V3.1.
I want to thank Rossum, Kataphratos, BobC, Tim, Alexander Mundy, 4Nic8 and ValHeli for taking on the project and providing great feedback and insight. (Big thanks to Rossum for hosting the beta forum!)
The group came up with a number of good improvements to tweak the design, reduce parts, simplify the build and lower the overall build cost.
V3.1 uses the same external shell parts as V3.0 but has changes to the internal structure. I went to mini deans type connectors and changed the battery contact. The top cap is now secured by the mini-connectors and larger magnets provide a nice auto-aligning grab/snap and seats the connectors into place. There is also now an option to use a standard ball tact switch instead of the Alps Mini Tact switch for the fire button. The Alps provides a quieter clicking sound, the standard ball tact has a bit more feedback.
So here is V3.1 update:
This is the raw untouched parts from Shapeways. I only press fit the mini connectors and the older ring style magnets into place. In the dry run assembly, the top of the main structure sat a little proud, but during final assembly it tightens up and can be sanded lightly for a custom fit.
This was fun; glad to answer any questions, I am sure the beta guys would do the same.
Hardware:
Parts List V3.1
- Two Stainless M2 Screws McMaster-Carr
- Two M2 Brass Press Fit Inserts McMaster-Carr
- Two Ball Tact Switches (Three is using the the Ball Tact Fire Button) Mouser
- One Alps Low Profile Tact Switch (not needed if using a Ball Tact Fire Button) SKQGAKE010 ALPS | Mouser
- One 3 mm Nut Mouser
- One Battery Contact Mouser
- Two Fuses 2920L700SLPR Littelfuse | Mouser
- Two ¼ Inch Cylinder Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44
Or for extra pull force . https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D44-N52- Two sets of Mini Connectors Hobbyking.
- One Fatdaddy 510 Classic 510 Inserts FatDaddyVapes.com
- Atty-510 O-ring two thicknesses for different atty heights: 1.5mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X011.5]The O-Ring Store and 2mm X 11.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X011.5]The O-Ring Store
Edit: and big props to Turbocad6 for his work with the deans connectors!
I was thinking the 11.5mm Orings went inside the the atty connector between the atty and base of the connector. Since they don't fit where do they go?
Between the atty and the top of the mod like a Reo.
This does 2 things.
1. It makes the atty tighten from turning without excessive pressure on the 510 center pin.
2. It helps seal against air or liquid leaks from the 510 to 510 connection.
I didn't get the specified o-rings, since I went by my favorite hardware store in town (one that actually stocks things a hardware store should have) and rifled through the o-ring drawers till I found some that worked. Don't remember what size they were but they were from the English measurement drawers.
Thanks, AM, I've never used a REO, so bear with my learning curve here. So there is no seal inside the atty connector?
#41 works for me. 7/16" ID, 1/16" cross-section.
Yes there is. The design originally called for using these silicone insulators. But one of the beta testers noted that those things were pretty easy to tear up by cranking center-post screw in to far and asked why we're not using an o-ring instead. Then gdeal spec'd out an o-ring or two. Both of these parts seem to be missing from the parts list you quoted, but they are covered in this post in the Bottom Feed Parts for a Fatdaddy 510 "Classic Insert" section:
FWIW, I'm still using the silicone insulators 'cause I learned not to crank the screw in quite so far/hard and I have a few of them.
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Thanks, Rossum That cleared it up for me. I'm ready just waiting on my shapeways order.
For the Fat Daddy Connectors, if you dont use the silicone insulators, you can use an oring that has an outside diameter of ~7mm to seal and insulate the hollow screw inside the 510.
So, if you use a screw that is 3mm you would use an oring that is 2mm CS x 3mm D, where CS is cross section and D is diameter.
Examples:
3 mm Screw - 2mm X 3mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X003] : The O-Ring Store
#6-32 Screw - 1.5mm X 3.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X003.5] : The O-Ring Store
4 mm Screw - 1.5mm X 4mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X004] : The O-Ring Store
So, if you use a screw that is 3mm you would use an oring that is 2mm CS x 3mm D, where CS is cross section and D is diameter.
Examples:
3 mm Screw - 2mm X 3mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N2.00X003] : The O-Ring Store
#6-32 Screw - 1.5mm X 3.5mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X003.5] : The O-Ring Store
4 mm Screw - 1.5mm X 4mm Metric Buna-N 70 O-ring [N1.50X004] : The O-Ring Store
9ml Vmod bottle. Perfect fit.
Drilled cap so hose fits tight added a Oring in the cap.
Drilled cap so hose fits tight added a Oring in the cap.
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Great mod. The 9ml and easy refill with the screw off bottle makes it even better. Thanks
Hopefully, by the end of this week ill have a fully assembled mod with graphics!
This will be my first regulated mod since my ego days. Typically I run a pure mech (REO and Dibi) at ~0.6ohm and I go through ~4ml of juice a day. What kind of battery life do you think I will get on a similar 30W build with my VTC5's? I know, I know it depends on a lot of factors. But I am used to a solid 8hr's on my mech's do you think this will be more or less than that?
This will be my first regulated mod since my ego days. Typically I run a pure mech (REO and Dibi) at ~0.6ohm and I go through ~4ml of juice a day. What kind of battery life do you think I will get on a similar 30W build with my VTC5's? I know, I know it depends on a lot of factors. But I am used to a solid 8hr's on my mech's do you think this will be more or less than that?
I run 15-20 watt builds rather than 30, so it's hard to compare, but I typically make it through about 1/2 bottle of juice in a dibi before I want to change the battery and I can get a bit more than that out of the DNA. I think I'm going to build my next one without fuses and with doubled up wires between the bottom (positive) battery contact and the DNA, and perhaps between the upper (negative) battery contact and the common ground point in the cap. The DNA gives up when it sees less than a certain voltage at its terminals. Thus any voltage drop between the battery and the DNA equals battery capacity it won't let you use. I think the lowest I've seen on a battery when I removed it from the DNA was 3.3V. It will be interesting to see if I can get more.
I find a marginal increase in life with the DNA vs Dibi at .7 ohms. If I take the LG out of OliveR when I feel like I need to change out batteries and drop it in the DNA I get between 30 minutes to an hour before the DNA starts dropping out.
Very difficult to answer as we all vape different. With my long double draws I have never had a battery last more than a couple hours on a mech, less than 3.7 volts just doesn't do it for me so I change batteries. With the DNA I can set it at 22 watts on a .6 ohm 3.7 v and it gives me over 5 hours.
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