Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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I was going to say that sounds expensive, then I googled it and it is expensive
But how cool would that be
And if gdeal released the CAD files, which I highly doubt will happen...
Since were off topic anyway What do you guys and gals think of something like this?
XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 3D Printer: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
To get 2 complete gdeals from Shapeways cost over 200.00 Kind makes the 499.00 price tag not to bad?
Just wounded what kinda quality you would get from a 499.00 3D printer?
XYZprinting Da Vinci 1.0 3D Printer: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
To get 2 complete gdeals from Shapeways cost over 200.00 Kind makes the 499.00 price tag not to bad?
Just wounded what kinda quality you would get from a 499.00 3D printer?
OIC so the cheeper printers are limited to the material they can use? What material is the S&F from Shapeways?
PA 2200 which is selectively laser sintered.
Parts are dug out of a block of powder after cooling, and the remaining powder is re-used.
It is essentially Nylon 12
Shapeways uses a polymer with a tradename of PA 2200, although a lot of companies make Nylon 12 under a variety of tradenames.
Nylon comes in lots of formulations, each has slightly different characteristics like elongation, tenacity, abrasion resistance, etc. Nylon 12 is known to have some of the best characteristics. At my plant we consume close to a million pounds of Nylon 6.6 per month. We extrude it into filaments for use in fabric.
The current gen of home printers just dont have the resolution and finish that shapeways can provide. Thats a main reason why they are still in business....
Heres an interesting review of other commercial printing services:
A Review of 3D Printing Services: Shapeways, 3D Hubs and Makerbot In-Store Printing (for PX4 and Pixhawk mounts) - DIY Drones
Shapeways vs Makerbot:
Heres an interesting review of other commercial printing services:
A Review of 3D Printing Services: Shapeways, 3D Hubs and Makerbot In-Store Printing (for PX4 and Pixhawk mounts) - DIY Drones
Shapeways vs Makerbot:
I was wondering... I know there was talks(posts) before about adding the charger board into this. What ever came of that?
We had a discussion about this in the Beta test. With out modifying the overall design, a charger board could fit underneath the floor of the juice bottle tube and above the tact switches. So the device body can be modded to fit the charger, but it would need a cut-out, so the flat face of the micro USB could rest flush with the surface.
The latest makerbot replicator 2014 edition has the resolution capable to produce this mod. It can get down to a 100th of a micron, or something like that but it comes with a $2500 price tag.
Sent from the Truck O Shop
Sent from the Truck O Shop
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I've been looking at one, but never say a side by side on products before.....WOW! How would something like this be?
Supports many different materials: ABS, PLA, nylon, professional, chameleon
50-350 micron layer resolution
15 micron X and Y positioning accuracy
Filament: standard 1.75mm. 1/2lb rolls fit within print bed and allow you to try a variety of materials and colors for less! Standard filament rolls also supported.
Print height: 116mm (4.6")
Base Print Area: 109mm x 113mm
Print Area Above 74mm: 91mm x 84mm
Removable Print Bed Size: 128x128mm
Supports many different materials: ABS, PLA, nylon, professional, chameleon
50-350 micron layer resolution
15 micron X and Y positioning accuracy
Filament: standard 1.75mm. 1/2lb rolls fit within print bed and allow you to try a variety of materials and colors for less! Standard filament rolls also supported.
Print height: 116mm (4.6")
Base Print Area: 109mm x 113mm
Print Area Above 74mm: 91mm x 84mm
Removable Print Bed Size: 128x128mm
50 micron is pretty good. Print speed at the finest level would be important to know as well.
Any close up pics of what this device can print?
Any close up pics of what this device can print?
It's a kick starter thing I've been flip flopping on.... Would really like one for things like this, custom PC parts and model rocketry, just not sure.... Would defiantly appreciate your input on it 
The Micro by M3D |The First Affordable Consumer 3D Printer | 3D Printers | 3D Printing | 3D Printing Filament | Affordable 3D Printing
The Micro by M3D |The First Affordable Consumer 3D Printer | 3D Printers | 3D Printing | 3D Printing Filament | Affordable 3D Printing
That does look very cool! I would like to see more of the actual printed parts by users, but the price is right.
I'm not the best person to ask...Jonniemac is well versed in DIY printers, either PM him or maybe he will drop in here.
I'm not the best person to ask...Jonniemac is well versed in DIY printers, either PM him or maybe he will drop in here.
Glad I didn't buy a Makerbot when I was thinking about it a few months ago.The current gen of home printers just dont have the resolution and finish that shapeways can provide. Thats a main reason why they are still in business....
Heres an interesting review of other commercial printing services:
A Review of 3D Printing Services: Shapeways, 3D Hubs and Makerbot In-Store Printing (for PX4 and Pixhawk mounts) - DIY Drones
Shapeways vs Makerbot:
I would be willing to tolerate longer printing times, but not that big of difference in quality.
I have two filament printers, Makergear M2 and a MakersToolWorks Fusematic, both easily do 100 microns and the M2 can go even lower than that if you spend hours and hours to get the bed perfectly level in all 3 axes. The lower you go, the trickier it becomes to get bed leveling, feed rate and retraction right on the print head right so you don't end up wiping the just printed material off the print bed on the next pass. Print head is typically running around 230C and the heated bed, required for ABS, is around 100C so the material stays soft for quite a while to help prevent warping. PLA isn't really viable for the creation of a mod because of it's 60 to 65C glass transition temperature. ABS has a glass transition temp of around 105C. This is important, especially in the area around the 510 connection which will be generating heat. PLA parts will melt or deform if left in a hot car for instance. There are some new nylon filaments available from Taulman but they require an all metal hot-end capable of printing at 250C or higher, which is quite uncommon and you will most likely need to mod the printer yourself.
The SLS process is vastly superior not only because of it's resolution, default is around 40 microns which is the size of the grain of the nylon powder I believe, but the fact that the powder laid down layer by layer acts as support for the rest of the part. I can tell you that the printing of a part with overhangs which will require support material are a major pain and the parts will require a LOT of post-processing. Designing for filament printing is very, very challenging.
I printed a simple Hana shaped box and the print run time was somewhere around 11 hours for the body and door.
Don't get me wrong, I love tinkering and am completely happy that I spent the money on my printers. If you see the output from Shapeways and think you're going to match, or even come close to a $500,000+ SLS printer with a $2500 or less consumer filament printer you are in for serious disappointment.
Basically, it's not just as easy as gdeal giving away what I'm guessing is 100's of hours of modeling and picking up a Makerbot to produce this stuff in a quality and finish that a person would be happy with. The design, ideas and modeling are the hard part. Everyone has a ton of options for outsourcing the printing available to them ... shapeways, i.materialise, makexyz and many others ... so my best advice is learn to model and worry about the printing after the hard part is done! I had a table drafting background but had to learn CAD on my own. Took a couple of weeks doing tutorials and reading but anyone that is reasonably competent on the computer should be able to pick it up.
The SLS process is vastly superior not only because of it's resolution, default is around 40 microns which is the size of the grain of the nylon powder I believe, but the fact that the powder laid down layer by layer acts as support for the rest of the part. I can tell you that the printing of a part with overhangs which will require support material are a major pain and the parts will require a LOT of post-processing. Designing for filament printing is very, very challenging.
I printed a simple Hana shaped box and the print run time was somewhere around 11 hours for the body and door.
Don't get me wrong, I love tinkering and am completely happy that I spent the money on my printers. If you see the output from Shapeways and think you're going to match, or even come close to a $500,000+ SLS printer with a $2500 or less consumer filament printer you are in for serious disappointment.
Basically, it's not just as easy as gdeal giving away what I'm guessing is 100's of hours of modeling and picking up a Makerbot to produce this stuff in a quality and finish that a person would be happy with. The design, ideas and modeling are the hard part. Everyone has a ton of options for outsourcing the printing available to them ... shapeways, i.materialise, makexyz and many others ... so my best advice is learn to model and worry about the printing after the hard part is done! I had a table drafting background but had to learn CAD on my own. Took a couple of weeks doing tutorials and reading but anyone that is reasonably competent on the computer should be able to pick it up.
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I believe it's not ABS's fault
Looking at physical properties of ABS and comparing to the shapeways stuff, it's no contest. ABS is quite though. The problem is extruded ABS.
I just spoke with ShapeWays, it finally got sent out but my button housing had to be reprinted 3 times as it had "Technical Difficulties"....... Finally shipped though.
Hopefully the one they sent out to me isn't in bad shape. Going to go over it all with a fine tooth comb.
It was colored if you wanted to know. I was going to clear it when it came in as it's in green. Hopefully the finish and dye is uniform in color. I'll post pics when it arrives.
Hopefully the one they sent out to me isn't in bad shape. Going to go over it all with a fine tooth comb.
It was colored if you wanted to know. I was going to clear it when it came in as it's in green. Hopefully the finish and dye is uniform in color. I'll post pics when it arrives.
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