Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

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mikepetro

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OMG :facepalm:

I think I have made just about every mistake I can make today while trying to put a finish on the GBF!

First, my CA experiment was a total bust, well almost. I mixed CA with 5 parts acetone and then dipped the parts. In this case I am dealing with an Alumide ring and button. The first 2 dips came out perfect. I wanted to do the 3rd and final dip but my CA solution had thickened up so I made another one. I put the acetone in the jar, added the CA, and then went to stir it with a Nylon Ty-rap. POOF! The solution bubbled and foamed up to three times its depth. The jar was only a third full and resulting foam came a gnats .... from overflowing the jar. Also, the jar got hot hot as hell, lots of heat. (Anybody here know the chemistry behind what might have happened? All I can think of is that maybe there was some finishing or machining oil on the Ty-raps that caused the reaction.) So, I scrapped that batch and made another. This one looked good, but this time I used my polyethylene tweezers to stir it. Dipped the parts, let them dry, came back 30 minutes later to a solid layer of white haze. So, total bust, I let the parts soak in acetone and stripped them bare.

Then, I moved on to the top/bottom shells. Put 2 coats of primer, and 3 coats of color and it looked AWESOME. Now, I am NOT a free hand artist by any stretch, I am doing good to draw a square! But I wanted some bling so I decided to use a stencil. Applied the stencil, ensure all the edges were pressed down good, and applied 2 coats of paint. Let it dry and removed the stencil. The stencil bled under the adhesive backing through the porous nylon. What I figured out is that this stuff is too porous to utilize a stencil unless you fill the pores of the nylon and sand it smooth. So, stencil was a bust.... stripped the shell pieces back down to bare nylon and started over.

Got all the base coasts back on now, and they are looking good. Started applying the polyurethane. Three light coats of that and I will be done. On a side note for any of you using an airbrush, Vallejo makes a really great water soluble polyurethane that works well in an airbrush. I dont like a gloss finish, too much glare, so I use their satin finish and it does great.

Well..... at the end of the day I learned how to, and got pretty proficient at, stripping CA and paint off of nylon........ :facepalm:
 

B2L

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OMG :facepalm:

I think I have made just about every mistake I can make today while trying to put a finish on the GBF!

First, my CA experiment was a total bust, well almost. I mixed CA with 5 parts acetone and then dipped the parts. In this case I am dealing with an Alumide ring and button. The first 2 dips came out perfect. I wanted to do the 3rd and final dip but my CA solution had thickened up so I made another one. I put the acetone in the jar, added the CA, and then went to stir it with a Nylon Ty-rap. POOF! The solution bubbled and foamed up to three times its depth. The jar was only a third full and resulting foam came a gnats .... from overflowing the jar. Also, the jar got hot hot as hell, lots of heat. (Anybody here know the chemistry behind what might have happened? All I can think of is that maybe there was some finishing or machining oil on the Ty-raps that caused the reaction.) So, I scrapped that batch and made another. This one looked good, but this time I used my polyethylene tweezers to stir it. Dipped the parts, let them dry, came back 30 minutes later to a solid layer of white haze. So, total bust, I let the parts soak in acetone and stripped them bare.

Then, I moved on to the top/bottom shells. Put 2 coats of primer, and 3 coats of color and it looked AWESOME. Now, I am NOT a free hand artist by any stretch, I am doing good to draw a square! But I wanted some bling so I decided to use a stencil. Applied the stencil, ensure all the edges were pressed down good, and applied 2 coats of paint. Let it dry and removed the stencil. The stencil bled under the adhesive backing through the porous nylon. What I figured out is that this stuff is too porous to utilize a stencil unless you fill the pores of the nylon and sand it smooth. So, stencil was a bust.... stripped the shell pieces back down to bare nylon and started over.

Got all the base coasts back on now, and they are looking good. Started applying the polyurethane. Three light coats of that and I will be done. On a side note for any of you using an airbrush, Vallejo makes a really great water soluble polyurethane that works well in an airbrush. I dont like a gloss finish, too much glare, so I use their satin finish and it does great.

Well..... at the end of the day I learned how to, and got pretty proficient at, stripping CA and paint off of nylon........ :facepalm:


“I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.”


― Thomas A. Edison
 

gdeal

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I actually missed this the other day...placed an order for v3.1 Internals in WSF....Shapeways sets a record......

Capture65.jpg
 

mikepetro

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Well, after all the trials and tribulations, I at least wound up with a decent finish, no bling but decent nonetheless. 3 coats of poly over 3 coats of acrylic on the shell, and 5 coats of poly on the button and ring. You cant really see in the pic, but the paint colors are iridescent, and the alumide looks really damn close to SS with the satin poly finish.

DSCN0888_zps9fc83ab6.jpg


DSCN0889_zpsd9a24b61.jpg


DSCN0890_zpsa02fa306.jpg
 

mikepetro

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Now that is a quality paint job! How did the CA/Acetone parts come out...I was just about to dip a blue dyed body in the CA. Any pics?

I gave up on the CA, I got frustrated after all the issues. Just used 5 coats of satin polyurethane instead.
 

mikepetro

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I wonder how masking off areas and doing duo tone paint schemes would work?

Also thinking about applying an antiquing glaze to mine prior to the clear coat. Anyone have any thoughts on that before I screw up my only parts. ;-)

The stencil I used was a vinyl one with an adhesive back. I ensured it was stuck on very well before I painted. The paint bled under the edges around the entire design. To me that is the same principle as masking tape. It appears that the porous nature of the surface doesnt allow the adhesive edges to seal the pores.

I suggest trying it, but be prepared to strip the paint off if it doesnt work. Not sure what paint you are using but a pure acetone soak and a brush took acrylic paint back down to bare nylon again.

On the glaze, I have seen someone else use an antique glaze on Shapeways parts and that did seem to work.
 

David1975

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Mike, you might try liquid masking. I do a lot of modeling and it's a life saver for small areas. You paint it on slightly larger than the area you want masked, let it dry, then trim with a razor and pull off the extra.... gives a nice sharp edge if removed while the paint is still partially wet.
 
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