Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[calpis]

Figures that when I decided that today be the day I build this and prep everything with clear that the dna40 board I had ordered 3 weeks ago was DOA. I attached alligator clips to the B+ and B- and touched the other ends to a battery to check if the screen would come on and I got nothing. Did the same thing with the dna30 board I had lying around and that came on with no probs. Mehhhhhh.

 

[phibbus]

The same thing happened to me. If your screw/pin is drilled out to a reasonable size, then I bet it is the bottle cap / nipple needs drilling out more. My screw was already almost 2mm, and I drilled my bottle cap and nipple the size from the tutorial. So I stepped up the drill size for the bottle cap and nipple which solved my problem.

What size did you use, Drunk?

 

[mikepetro]

Figures that when I decided that today be the day I build this and prep everything with clear that the dna40 board I had ordered 3 weeks ago was DOA. I attached alligator clips to the B+ and B- and touched the other ends to a battery to check if the screen would come on and I got nothing. Did the same thing with the dna30 board I had lying around and that came on with no probs. Mehhhhhh.

Yours may be OK.

On the DNA40s you have to hit the Fire Button to wake it up. The 30s werent like that. They came on as soon as you applied power. But the 40s appear dead until you hit the Fire button.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Figures that when I decided that today be the day I build this and prep everything with clear that the dna40 board I had ordered 3 weeks ago was DOA. I attached alligator clips to the B+ and B- and touched the other ends to a battery to check if the screen would come on and I got nothing. Did the same thing with the dna30 board I had lying around and that came on with no probs. Mehhhhhh.

Did you press the fire button for it to come on? Seems the DNA40 will not come on until you press the fire button.


D'oh! Didn't see Mike's post.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

What size did you use, Drunk?

Argh, my memory sux. I will look the next time I go out to my shed and see. But it was the next size up on a standard fractional index (not metric, number or letter size).

 

[xtwosm0kesx]

Yours may be OK.

On the DNA40s you have to hit the Fire Button to wake it up. The 30s werent like that. They came on as soon as you applied power. But the 40s appear dead until you hit the Fire button.

Did you press the fire button for it to come on? Seems the DNA40 will not come on until you press the fire button.


D'oh! Didn't see Mike's post.

^This, freaked out when i first wired my chip for testing and it didnt come on, they breathed a sigh of relief when i hit the fire button.

I sure hope he saw those posts before he logged off disheartened/ready to RMA it.

 

[DejayRezme]

The old "Did you try to turn it off and on again?"

 

[calpis]

Yours may be OK.

On the DNA40s you have to hit the Fire Button to wake it up. The 30s werent like that. They came on as soon as you applied power. But the 40s appear dead until you hit the Fire button.

Thanks for the suggestion but the screen still didn't come on. Screen is definitely dead. I hooded it up to a battery and checked the continuity between the out and the ground and I was able to make my multimeter do short successive beeps when I pressed and held the fire button while the dna40 was "on". It didn't make those beeps when I turned it "off".

I'm off to submit an RMA

 

[mikepetro]

Argh, my memory sux. I will look the next time I go out to my shed and see. But it was the next size up on a standard fractional index (not metric, number or letter size).

Thanks Drunk, 11/64ths did the trick for me, now I am flooding the damn thing because I got so used pressing so hard.

 

[TyCreek]

Ah... time to relax and enjoy a working DNA40...

No screen glitches, no runaway power... just a great vape, button press after button press!

 

[OthatGuy]

Now that's an awesome setup!

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Ah... time to relax and enjoy a working DNA40...

No screen glitches, no runaway power... just a great vape, button press after button press!

Looks like linen.

 

[TyCreek]

It's 24K Gold with a satin top coat on a white shell.
I did a ring first and liked the color so I just did all the parts with the same treatment. That gold is a bright metallic until it soaks in and then the satin really mellows it out more.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Thanks Drunk, 11/64ths did the trick for me, now I am flooding the damn thing because I got so used pressing so hard.

Haha, cool. Now just learn to quit strong fingering it! Hmm, that didn't come out right.

Oh well, here is a pic of my newest DNA40 BF which I am hoping to finish in the next day or two.

 

[sanjosse]

Haha, cool. Now just learn to quit strong fingering it! Hmm, that didn't come out right.

Oh well, here is a pic of my newest DNA40 BF which I am hoping to finish in the next day or two.

That is bad@ss!

 

[ThreeDJ16]

That is bad@ss!

Thanks....I can't wait to have a Nuppin' sitting on top and vapor pouring out. Then it will be badd@$$. I am running out of metal finish types to swirl....lol. Guess rust swirl maybe next since i have crap luck with simulated wood swirl finishes.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

A good point. It depends on how much of the tip you cut off of the drip tip part. We want a tight compression fit on the tube, but its possible that the tube (and the 1/16 hole) can get compressed by the drip tip if its too tight. If you dont take enough off, the drip tip wont stretch and it will compress the tube just below the screw. If you take too much off, then you risk loosing the leak sealing compression. So its a balance between hole size drilled and where you cut the tip. If you have the tube extend about 2-3mm out of the bottle tip, there should be enough screw threads that can make its way past the all of the compression points.

Honestly I don't remember cutting the tip of the nipple at all. Thinking I drilled it all together....lol. The mind is a terrible thing.


I almost forgot another point where I deviated slightly. The portion of the nipple that sticks down in the bottle, I cut it down and trimmed where it slides in and out of the bottle with no resistance (basically cut it off). Since the seal is really made by the lip of the nipple (for the cap to tank seal portion), this portion really doesn't matter. Reason I did it is because another forum member mentioned doing the O-ring seal instead as they had trouble separating this joint. I swap bottles in and out for my different juices and want it to be as simple as possible. Never had any leaks now and this cap/nipple has been working for right at a month now I believe, maybe a bit longer.

Freakn great job again on all this stuff you have come up with Gdeal. Everything had been absolutely exceptionally engineered!

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Good point.....if you have a tight cap seal you dont need the dripper tip to snap into the bottle. Another method which works well, is to leave that snap mechanism in place and not use the cap at all. Rossum turned me on to it. Its not as secure, but it holds well and is much quicker for refills/change outs. You can see the threads from the screw, going threw the tube and seating well in the dripper tip.

Nice, I like that. Would be perfect for refills. Not sure it would be easier swapping my bottles though, as I don't have tube already in all of them. Sort of funny, I have like 20 of those little buggers filled with all my favorite juices so I can swap them in a out whenever.

 

[TyCreek]

Sculpteo conundrum happened as I went to put in the 510 retainer ring... A big chunk of plastic in the way!

Tried cutting it out with some different blades and drill bits but the effort wasn't going well. A broken tip rotary cutout bit worked! Crazy to keep a broken bit around and surprising that I could find it in stacks of odds & ends containers.

That nub just took this print from being the easiest no prep needed for a perfect fit to the most effort!

 

[Relaxed5311]

Just got my print from sculpto I did not realize how small this thing is. The print is smaller than an mvp2. Is that normal? It's about 1/2 an inch taller than an 18650.