You'll probably only hit the surface of the nubby texture, although you still might rough it up enough to expose the pores and allow more absorption. Be careful, though. Like I said before, those print lines run kind of deep, and even with that fine a grit, you could wind up with noticeable smooth spots where they crest.
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
You'll probably only hit the surface of the nubby texture, although you still might rough it up enough to expose the pores and allow more absorption. Be careful, though. Like I said before, those print lines run kind of deep, and even with that fine a grit, you could wind up with noticeable smooth spots where they crest.
What do you mean? I earned my place here:
Still not sure, we haven't heard your 'I have sworn off Taifuns' oath yet
Just finished building my DNA40 bottom feeder. I am already in love with this thing.
I ended up using black RIT dye to color my parts, they came out blue. I am happy with how it came out though. I left the button, ring, and internals white then clear coated everything.
I only have a 5mp camera so photos suck but here they are anyways.
Edit
I am using one of the stock 1mm vented screws for my positive pin and it surprisingly isn't bad at all to squonk.
I attempted to drill one out to 1/16, but I don't have a drill press, had to do it by hand, and snapped a bit half way. I may get a local shop to drill one out in the future, but it's working fine for now.
I ended up using black RIT dye to color my parts, they came out blue. I am happy with how it came out though. I left the button, ring, and internals white then clear coated everything.
I only have a 5mp camera so photos suck but here they are anyways.
Edit
I am using one of the stock 1mm vented screws for my positive pin and it surprisingly isn't bad at all to squonk.
I attempted to drill one out to 1/16, but I don't have a drill press, had to do it by hand, and snapped a bit half way. I may get a local shop to drill one out in the future, but it's working fine for now.
Last edited:
Looking good man. Pretty awesome vaping a dna40 bottom feeder. Especially one you put together yourself!
Couple of tricks to drilling SS whether you're on a drill press or by hand. Get some cutting/tapping oil. That alone makes a huge difference. Another tip is stepping up the hole you're drilling. I am also still using Amazon vented screw in which i cut down the head and increased the bore size. Also just used my hand drill for it. Number size bits have a smaller increase between sizes versus the average SAE set. So just step up till your happy with flow.
Last edited:
Had another thought this morning on acetone/super glue sealing. Since acetone is a solvent for oil based paints as well as super glue, why not dissolve some paint in it too? Even if it doesn't work out as dark as the color you want it, would still be a good base sealer and cool experiment. Wish i had some naked parts and i would try it myself.
When you finish with the mixture, drizzle some tap water in it and watch what happens. The resulting particulate looks and feels like paper pulp. Anyway, just something different to try.
Last edited:
I have a real strange problem 
I put together my first Gdeal today with the only good DNA 40 I have. I got it all together and tried it and it was firing on it's own
totally strange right? I thought I must have done something wrong with my wiring. With no choice but to take it all apart (not an easy job) I dug out the DNA40 to see what went wrong. I set up the DNA 40 on my test board and to my disbelief here's what happened
You can see from the video I removed the top of the switch and the DNA40 is firing on it's own.
Any one have any idea why?
The good news is I was able to save all the parts for the Gdeal and can start over If I could figure out why the chip is firing on it's own?
I put together my first Gdeal today with the only good DNA 40 I have. I got it all together and tried it and it was firing on it's own totally strange right? I thought I must have done something wrong with my wiring. With no choice but to take it all apart (not an easy job) I dug out the DNA40 to see what went wrong. I set up the DNA 40 on my test board and to my disbelief here's what happened
You can see from the video I removed the top of the switch and the DNA40 is firing on it's own.
Any one have any idea why?
The good news is I was able to save all the parts for the Gdeal and can start over If I could figure out why the chip is firing on it's own?
Last edited:
I dont know what the heck I did wrong, but 5 part acetone to 1 part CA gave me a really thick coat. Thick enough nothing fit together and the coating would crack when the body was flexed. Had to soak the parts in acetone twice to get it removed.
Weird. Maybe Mike will have some insight as to what happened. I used a thinner solution as i didn't havee the ratio at the time. Might have been a good thing. But what doesn't make sense to me is i used pure ca glue on parts of the tibs mod just playing and it soaked right into the printed material, just was really hard trying to spread evenly. But even then it wasn't noticeably thicker and it held fine. I actually started messing with it as i broke that tiny piece of back cover below charger plate. It is still holding strong.
By chance could the container of had something in it or even get partially disolved itself and contributed to the build up of weaker material? Just making sure here, but no other coating was put in before? Ok, that taps me out if thoughts for the moment.
I have a real strange problem
totally strange right? I thought I must have done something wrong with my wiring. With no choice but to take it all apart (not an easy job) I dug out the DNA40 to see what went wrong. I set up the DNA 40 on my test board and to my disbelief here's what happened
You can see from the video I removed the top of the switch and the DNA40 is firing on it's own.
Any one have any idea why?
The good news is I was able to save all the parts for the Gdeal and can start over If I could figure out why the chip is firing on it's own?
When you removed the switch cover, did you also remove the tiny silver disc (in reference to the onboard switch). Also, do you have a multimeter so you can check across the Alps or tact switch. My first one installed was bad, but would not fire. Lastly, are you positive you soldered to the correct switch legs? Wrong legs could give you this exact problem.
Ok, didn't see a video, but obviously my last two suggestions would only be for the board working after removal. Any chance there is some solder crossover between the fire solder points in the board?
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply
I put the switch back together to see if that would do anything but it's still the same
I can't see any solder were it should not be. the board looks clean
I guess this one goes back too
Thanks for the reply
I put the switch back together to see if that would do anything but it's still the same
I can't see any solder were it should not be. the board looks clean
I guess this one goes back too
I think I've seen mention somewhere that you can't just remove the firing switch because it's "always closed" so you would get autofire. Maybe it was the FT clone case thread but not sure. Maybe you need to bridge two contacts now?
PS: Oh it was mike petro's blog: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/mikepetro/6802-dna40.html
Not sure if this helps you though since you seem to only have removed the cap.
Last edited:
That refers to the old way it was done were the switch was sniped from the board.
I just removed the top cover of the switch,
With this mod there is a chance if you press the feed bottle too hard, that the button on board gets pressed, that is why we remove the cover from the switch
I put the switch back on now, and it is still auto firing
I have had nothing but bad luck with Evolv Boards
I just removed the top cover of the switch,
With this mod there is a chance if you press the feed bottle too hard, that the button on board gets pressed, that is why we remove the cover from the switch
I put the switch back on now, and it is still auto firing
I have had nothing but bad luck with Evolv Boards
I did notice a few thing on my first attempt. The internals were very well designed Kudos Gdeal
Also the wire I have is a little to stiff What is a better choice and were can I get it?
Also the wire I have is a little to stiff What is a better choice and were can I get it?
- Status
Similar threads
