Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder

[mikepetro]

You board looks clean. I dont see any issue with solder or whatever. Sounds like the switch could be stuck, but I think that silver disc is what actually shorts the contacts, with the disc removed I dont see how the switch could be stuck. You could just cut it off and then solder the jumpers to replace the common contacts. Heck, if you are going to have to send it back anyway, why not?

Measure continuity between the switch contacts, then operate the switch and see if it changes state. If it doesnt show "open" then I would try removing the switch. Or just send it back.

 

[Steamer861]

Thanks Mike I think this one goes back "sigh" with an auto fire problem it could be hazardous If it were unattended and started to auto fire Not good!
At least I didn't break any of my internals getting it a part Could have bin worse I guess

 

[Alexander Mundy]

............By chance could the container of had something in it or even get partially disolved itself and contributed to the build up of weaker material? Just making sure here, but no other coating was put in before? Ok, that taps me out if thoughts for the moment.

Duh, why didn't I think of that? The plastic cup I was using got really soft. Bet something in it reacted with the CA causing some sort of massive polymerization. It was a really cool effect, just not for what I was doing.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Thanks It calls for 18 and 24 gauge does the 18 fit in the holes on the board?

Barely. I stripped the wire long and with a blade splayed out the outer strands and snipped a dozen or so middle strands about 1/2 inch shorter then twisted back together so the end was thinner. This allowed it to easily slip into the hole so I could pull all the strands through without any bunching up on the other side.

 

[DejayRezme]

Barely. I stripped the wire long and with a blade splayed out the outer strands and snipped a dozen or so middle strands about 1/2 inch shorter then twisted back together so the end was thinner. This allowed it to easily slip into the hole so I could pull all the strands through without any bunching up on the other side.

Oh man that is clever! Cut off a few center strands to insert them. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Oh man that is clever! Cut off a few center strands to insert them. Thanks for the tip!

Thank Mr. Hoss, my vo-tech electronics teacher. He was a clever guy and a heck of a teacher. One that actually taught ideas and not rote lessons out of a book. Actually called his students every 5 years to see how they were doing in life. I was sad when the calls stopped.

 

[mikepetro]

Duh, why didn't I think of that? The plastic cup I was using got really soft. Bet something in it reacted with the CA causing some sort of massive polymerization. It was a really cool effect, just not for what I was doing.

I used glass canning jars for my potions. Washed them out with acetone first.

I am not satisfied that I ever came up with a repeatable process. I even consulted a chemist (a really good one, PhD type).

A couple of things I learned, from him and from trials.

• Moisture is the catalyst, and it doesnt take much. A humid day can make a bad difference.
• Stirring too much can speed up the reaction beyond control. It is adding ambient moisture as you stir. I had one batch get super hot and start foaming up, like 3 fold in volume. Was glad I only filled the jar 1/3 full to begin with as it almost overflowed.
• Different brands of CA, and different formulations, react very differently. The thinnest CA you can find worked the best.
• Next time I will try a lower ratio, like maybe a 10:1.
• Fresh acetone makes a difference, if your acetone has been exposed to air it absorbed some moisture. My chemist buddy says they run their solvents through a molecular sieve dryer.

Honestly, I got more repeatable results using very thin CA and applying it uncut with a brush. McMaster sells bottles of CA with brush caps. If you look up "Wood Pen" finishing, they do a lot of CA finishes and they use straight CA, applying multiple thin coats and they polish it with a buffing wheel.

 

[turbocad6]

I use ca straight and use q tips to spread it evenly. you only have a few second window to spread it evenly with the q tip before it starts to smoke and the q tip gets hard but q tips are cheap and great to spread a layer of ca. I usually use the first side to spread the ca then when the tip gets hard I flip it and use the second side to spread it a little more and remove any excess. you only want to apply a thin layer at a time and the second pas to eliminate excess helps a lot in getting a nice finish... ca can be wet sanded and buffed very much like a clearcoat. heck in a way it really is a super fast curing clearcoat with excellent adhesive properties. you don't want any thick build up areas though because they can turn all milky white and chalky... can be sanded out and re coated but the second spreading and removal of excess pretty much eliminates that

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I used glass canning jars for my potions. Washed them out with acetone first.

I am not satisfied that I ever came up with a repeatable process. I even consulted a chemist (a really good one, PhD type).

A couple of things I learned, from him and from trials.

• Moisture is the catalyst, and it doesnt take much. A humid day can make a bad difference.
• Stirring too much can speed up the reaction beyond control. It is adding ambient moisture as you stir. I had one batch get super hot and start foaming up, like 3 fold in volume. Was glad I only filled the jar 1/3 full to begin with as it almost overflowed.
• Different brands of CA, and different formulations, react very differently. The thinnest CA you can find worked the best.
• Next time I will try a lower ratio, like maybe a 10:1.
• Fresh acetone makes a difference, if your acetone has been exposed to air it absorbed some moisture. My chemist buddy says they run their solvents through a molecular sieve dryer.

Honestly, I got more repeatable results using very thin CA and applying it uncut with a brush. McMaster sells bottles of CA with brush caps. If you look up "Wood Pen" finishing, they do a lot of CA finishes and they use straight CA, applying multiple thin coats and they polish it with a buffing wheel.

Damn lot of good information on this thread.

But man i find this halarious though, must have been shear dumb luck. The funnest part is i used one of those disposable containers lunch meat comes in, figured not much breaks those damn things down. On top of that, i put the lid on it and set it in the shop for a week to do my second set of parts. Quick stir and did a second round. I know they are sealed because i use black play dough to fill when swirl painting. That crap even seems to stain my hands. The shell rinses completely clean with warm water. So definitely sounds like a higher dilution is a good way to go. As for quality, pretty much bought the cheap walmart super glue in a four pack and whatever brand acetone they sell. Gotta love WallyWorld. Lol.

 

[dhaiken]

Are all Mini T-Connectors the same size & profile?
Hobby King is out, but I saw some on Amazon.

 

[Aal_]

Speaking of hobby king, I ordered some wires from their EU Warehouse which is supposed to be in Netherlands. 1 month later and no sign of the package. I contacted them and they said I didn't opt for the tracking option for shipping and they can't do anything. You think I can submit a dispute in PayPal?

 

[Rossum]

Of course you can. Whether you get your money back is a different question. But I would do so anyway just to annoy them, because I really don't like them. Way back in June when I was getting ready to do my first build, I ordered wire from them and paid via PayPal. A week later, I'd heard nothing from them so I checked order status. It still showed as "Unpaid". So I called them. They had "Lost" my PayPal payment. Seriously? I gave them the PP transaction ID and they found it. But meanwhile, some of the items on my order had gone out of stock and I think it was August before I received my order. Bottom line: My sense is they are utterly incompetent and I won't do business with them unless there's no other source for the items in question.

I dunno about Europe, but here in the US, you can get appropriate wire from Amazon.

 

[Steamer861]

In Canada Amazon.com will not ship here we have to use .ca and the wire is really expensive. I found some on ebay I only bought 5' but it didn't cost me an arms and a leg

 

[Aal_]

Of course you can. Whether you get your money back is a different question. But I would do so anyway just to annoy them, because I really don't like them. Way back in June when I was getting ready to do my first build, I ordered wire from them and paid via PayPal. A week later, I'd heard nothing from them so I checked order status. It still showed as "Unpaid". So I called them. They had "Lost" my PayPal payment. Seriously? I gave them the PP transaction ID and they found it. But meanwhile, some of the items on my order had gone out of stock and I think it was August before I received my order. Bottom line: My sense is they are utterly incompetent and I won't do business with them unless there's no other source for the items in question.

I dunno about Europe, but here in the US, you can get appropriate wire from Amazon.

Thanks. I figured they are not as professional as I hoped for. I found some wires from component shop in the uk. But hobby king were the only affordable option for turnigy brand.

 

[dhaiken]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-2-Pin-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f75fe906

They dont have specs, but these look the same (ships from US)

Thank you sir!

On another note, since the DNA 40 has built in protection, are the 2 - 7 amp fuses mandatory?

If so, what is the purpose?

 

[ThreeDJ16]

Thank you sir!

On another note, since the DNA 40 has built in protection, are the 2 - 7 amp fuses mandatory?

If so, what is the purpose?

Mike just posted a good repost from Mamu on this thread about fuses.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ound-1-us-only-co-op-closed.html#post14659975

 

[dhaiken]

Mike just posted a good repost from Mamu on this thread about fuses.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ound-1-us-only-co-op-closed.html#post14659975

Thanks.
Makes me think I would fuse a DNA 30, but not a DNA 40 on a single battery configuration.

 

[dhaiken]

I got a DOA version of the DNA 40, or killed it myself. Have not determined the source yet.
However, I did not detect that until the Mod was completed and glued. Somewhat aggressively in some places.
I have salvaged all but the main center frame of the internals. I doubt my ability to successfully salvage it, though I haven't tried yet.
Is it possible to buy just that piece at Sculpteo instead of the complete internal assembly?
It would help in my current situation, and I would probably order a 2nd one and build it up as a backup.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I got a DOA version of the DNA 40, or killed it myself. Have not determined the source yet.
However, I did not detect that until the Mod was completed and glued. Somewhat aggressively in some places.
I have salvaged all but the main center frame of the internals. I doubt my ability to successfully salvage it, though I haven't tried yet.
Is it possible to buy just that piece at Sculpteo instead of the complete internal assembly?
It would help in my current situation, and I would probably order a 2nd one and build it up as a backup.

Yup on the question below, but personally i would only fuse a lipo since they can explode.

And yes you can print just a frame. But trust me, you can salvage and glue back together. Also use acetone to release the glue. Mine was pretty sad looking but it is glued back together and holding fine with a dna40.

 

[ThreeDJ16]

I uploaded the center piece. or do as Drunk_J suggested.

Oppps, I thought he asked for internals, but very cool you have just that center rail. If i wasn't so lazy, i would replace mine.

Oh yeah, Gdeal, got some pics to take for you in a couple of hours.....still drying.