Problem wit ELeaf iStick 50W

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nanusic

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Jan 23, 2014
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Why are you getting juice in your button? I've never got juice anywhere near my button. Unscrew your tank to fill it like a normal person and wash your sticky hands afterwards. If your tank is leaking maybe get a new tank, that's not the mods fault. Geez.
I use RDA's...... Have you ever used one? And, it was just speculation, no need for bashing!!!!!
 
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Ohm Gnome

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Apr 27, 2015
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As far as I know all these types of mods have the button on the same side as the addy. I agree with you though it should be on the other side. Got my Xpro M80 Plus as a replacement for my istick 50 watt and I couldn't be happier. This thing works perfect with none of the issues I previously had with the Istick 50 watt. The Temp Control works pretty damn good too. Sure glad my vendor offered this as a replacement. I'm stoked.
When my Istick 50 first started auto firing I went the next day and got a Smok M80 XPRO Plus also. I love it. It's leaps and bounds better to me. I've started using nickel coils so I can use the temp control and no more dry hits lol
 
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nanusic

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When my Istick 50 first started auto firing I went the next day and got a Smok M80 XPRO Plus also. I love it. It's leaps and bounds better to me. I've started using nickel coils so I can use the temp control and no more dry hits lol
I have been looking at that one....sounds good to me!
 
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Mike89

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Apr 25, 2015
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BTW you don't need nickel coils with the xpro m80 plus. Because of the way the temp control on this unit works, there is no difference between Kanthal coils and Nickel coils regarding the temp mode. This is because this chip is not actually reading temps from the coil but using an algorithm to adjust wattages to maintain a level of what is set. I think this is actually a good selling point for this unit in that it doesn't require nickel coils for the temp mode to work.
 
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Ohm Gnome

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Apr 27, 2015
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You're welcome. Seems a lot of people automatically think you have to switch to nickel builds for temp control. While it's true for some, not so with this one. I've also found for short 1-2 sec pulls, wattage mode works better. Temp control shines on the long pulls.
Yes I had someone tell me they had to be nickel when I bought mine. I will let the shop know.
 

Ohm Gnome

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Apr 27, 2015
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Honestly I love my XPro M80 but if i had the money I would get a mod with eternal batteries. I bought the XPro because I needed a quick replacement for my faulty Istick and I didn't have the money to buy a mod plus batteries and a charger. I think external batteries are just safer because their safe chemistry. I only learned this after researching my Istick problem. But when the internal batteries go into thermal runaway they're more likely to flame and or explode. Also I think the external bat mods should last longer where as the internal ones are basically disposable. Once the internal batteries are messing up it's time to throw it out. But with all that I genuinely love this XPro lol
 
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nanusic

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Ok, I had that button sticking thing happen last night! That's just dangerous! I didn't realize it at first, except that it was HOT! It wouldn't stop firing and I burnt myself trying to get the tank off before anything worse took place. I am done with these units, two out of three is no coincidence!
This company needs to do more testing and fix this problem!!:nah:
 
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Brian Bavington

Senior Member
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Dec 11, 2014
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brooksville fl
Ok i have never owned a istike 50 but have friends and family that do every one i know that has used a dripper has had problems after asking around i was told the juice gets inside and shorts the mod out till to day i said ok well got chance to open one up what i found made me mad like i said never spent one cent on i stike first off the inside of the mod was dry as a bone the mod would not stop fireing onece it did finaly fire the batteries were charged ok but the wires they use in these mods that say .2 ohms 50 watts look like the ones in one of my first ego battery u know max out put mabe 10 watts that may be why the b + coming from the batterys melted to a pin on the board putting a hole new meaning to the fraze unlimited becouse it by passed the saftys built in to the mod i am going to post some pic see for yourself and then ask your self if that looks heavy enough to handle sub ohm vaping
20150525_185105.jpg
i wish i would have placed one of my .4 coils next to the wires ok now good news once i pulled the shorted wire from the board the mod came back to life to see if the cut off was still working slaped my .2 driper on it backed the watts down to ten and held the fire button around 10 seconds watts it stop fireing and gave over fire or something like it should then bumed it up to 36 watts vaped good but ever wire in it was hot real hot i look and say to my self no dam wounder wires are way to light to carry any thing like 30 never mind any thing else just wanted to pass this on thats a tooth pick in the pic holding the ground up i did not relize that the pics on this site zoom you can see real good were the red wire melted black and were it hit the borad auto fire yep
 
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Brian Bavington

Senior Member
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Dec 11, 2014
95
7
brooksville fl
Ok i have never owned a istike 50 but have friends and family that do every one i know that has used a dripper has had problems after asking around i was told the juice gets inside and shorts the mod out till to day i said ok well got chance to open one up what i found made me mad like i said never spent one cent on i stike first off the inside of the mod was dry as a bone the mod would not stop fireing onece it did finaly fire the batteries were charged ok but the wires they use in these mods that say .2 ohms 50 watts look like the ones in one of my first ego battery u know max out put mabe 10 watts that may be why the b + coming from the batterys melted to a pin on the board putting a hole new meaning to the fraze unlimited becouse it by passed the saftys built in to the mod i am going to post some pic see for yourself and then ask your self if that looks heavy enough to handle sub ohm vapingView attachment 459391 i wish i would have placed one of my .4 coils next to the wires ok now good news once i pulled the shorted wire from the board the mod came back to life to see if the cut off was still working slaped my .2 driper on it backed the watts down to ten and held the fire button around 10 seconds watts it stop fireing and gave over fire or something like it should then bumed it up to 36 watts vaped good but ever wire in it was hot real hot i look and say to my self no dam wounder wires are way to light to carry any thing like 30 never mind any thing else just wanted to pass this on thats a tooth pick in the pic holding the ground up
this might help to put actual size of everything sorry i can not take good pics
20150525_141544.jpg
 

6ixishome

Full Member
May 30, 2015
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I just bought the istick 50 a few days ago. Yesterday I noticed that I wasnt getting the pull I was getting before. I have a SubTank with a 1.2. I decided to put the tank onto my IPV Mini 2. That works fine. I plugged the charger into the istick. Doesnt show its charging and shows full battery. I think the unit is faulty and broke. Is there a way to reboot it? That might sound stupid but I dont want to open it up and pull the battery.
I can only suggest that you go to your vendor, they should replace it.
 
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