Problem with my Vamo

[Tbev]

Well the first couple min I wasn't sure it was really going to work, but after I noticed it was budging it didn't take long 5 min Max, but take your time at the end you don't want to rip the wires out of the board, also put the bottom cap on the top of the tube to keep it as structurally strong as possible, being plated brass it's not a very strong tube.


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[Tbev]

That's a regular size sharpie marker.
You can see the lip there that's how far it's pressed in, and that's how much wire you have to work with.

 

[5spike]

Ok so last night I put my Jwrap on my vamo... all was working well until about 3:30 this afternoon... I went outside to vape and I got a tiny hit off of my vamo and then it wasn't working correctly. I looked around at it and was checking the ohms of my coils. My 2.8 ohm kangertech single coil is reading 4.6 ohms. I took my vamo to the nearest vape shop and they fiddled with the center pin and still nothing. Does anybody know whats going on with it?

My V5 did the exact same thing after a month. Home Depot has #60 orings. Pull the pin up enough to grab the junk insulator with a tweezers and rip it out. Takes a bit of finagling but you can get that #60 oring stretched around the pin. Couple paper clips help. Works great ever since.

 

[edyle]

That's a regular size sharpie marker.
You can see the lip there that's how far it's pressed in, and that's how much wire you have to work with.

Thanks for the pics; helps to know that the inside is smooth and not ridged; maybe if I get a little space I might be able to squeeze a knife edge in it an open it up more.

 

[Tbev]

I wouldn't do that

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[Tbev]

You don't want to jam anything in there it will flare out the housing, thru pressure in this order; 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 3 o'clock 9 o'clock, repeat till it starts to come up, then keep going on a round about motion. The thing you want to worry about is the metal is soft, that being said it should come apart from where it's pressed in... But you don't want to break it

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[jimbill]

Good job tbve on getting it off and did you solder on the new wires on top cap yet.

 

[Tbev]

Nope I just found out they were for sale for 6 bucks from a really cool vendor I linked her site earlier I ordered a couple and some cool mod holsters she said fit the vamo really well, I'll post pics when I get it, should be a few days.

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[N00dl3s]

Could you take a shot of the body end where the board is? Want to see if its possible to twist the board in the housing a bit. I have a v5 with a slightly off center board, compared to the buttons and screen. It works but my OCD is screaming about it.. Lol. Thanks.

 

[DavidOH]

Not sure if this is what your looking for but it's what I did. when I first took mine apart I broke the wires. But they were on the small side so I replaced them with bigger wire and gave it a better ground. It's a v2.http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/hhv-army/374698-lets-talk-hardware-422.html#post10840808

 

[DavidOH]

Could you take a shot of the body end where the board is? Want to see if its possible to twist the board in the housing a bit. I have a v5 with a slightly off center board, compared to the buttons and screen. It works but my OCD is screaming about it.. Lol. Thanks.

Look and see if the board is in the same as the v2. If so then yes you can reset it. Look at the pics in my other post. You can push a screwdriver on the plastic and slide it out. When you have it out the board will come out.

The plastic is opposite the screen.

 

[edyle]

Ok, well it finally came apart;

I was so happy;

then things startd going downhill from there.

it's ended up now i will have to solder back on wires onto the board.

unfortunately i don't know where on the board to solder to; those wires are so darn tiny

 

[edyle]

Can't see myself soldering that back.



at least I think I know where the wires go: but if I try to solder that back i'm gonna haveta try soldering on the opposite side of the board to where it was.

 

[edyle]

Ok; I kinda got it back together again;;;;; thought maybe i fried the board when I couldn't get it to turn on then after a while I realised with the neg lead soldered onto the pressfit top cap which I still had not pressed back in, there was no circuit;

So it kinda works now but the problem is.... lol..... just as it was so hard to unpressfit it..... now I'm wondering how to pressfit it back in!!

Gonna end up tapping it in with a hammer but nervous about that since only a few minutes ago i thought i'd fried it from too much heat from the soldering iron.

right now the pressfit topcap is totally crocked; toying with the idea of hacksawing 4 slits to ease pressfit.

oh; most importantly: I took off the flimsy insulator grommet that was on the center pin, and replaced it with a grommet from one of my protank coils.

 

[Tbev]

Don't use a hammer , it's called press fit for a reason, pressure consistently around in a circle. Use a tube section with the end cap on, and take your time

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[DavidOH]

See if you can put a large socket over the connection and tap on that.

 

[edyle]

See if you can put a large socket over the connection and tap on that.

I put on a tube with the end cap on it and tapped with a pliers till it seemed straight enough.

Works now so far; and I'm confident if it has a problem again I can open it up; claming one side down with a c-clamp onto my desk did the trick enabling me to work the pressfit with two hands.

Thanks so much for the pics, tbev.

 

[Tbev]

No problem buddy glad I could help.

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[N00dl3s]

Set it between two wood blocks and tap it that way. The wood will deform well before either end gets damaged, and it will fully seat the head. Don't slit the top. That will make the top end loose eventually, plus it'll look fugly..