Problems with new Cupti, especially with 1.5 ohm MTL coil

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Liazard

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I am having severe gurgling and spitback problems with a new Kanger Cupti. Coil was primed per instructions with 2 drops each hole starting yesterday using 70VG/30PG. I'm trying to use with the 1.5 ohm CLOCC coil because it's recommended for MTL. Due to problems I drained the tank this morning and switched to 50/50 and now have gone down to 40VG/60PG. Same problems.

I've tried playing with wattage - I'm now at only 10W but at higher wattage the problem is even worse - at 25W with it literally spraying out visible drops when the fire button is pressed. Have tried various other fixes including letting it sit overnight, letting it sit upside down, dry firing it with the tank empty to partly dry the coil, removing the tube and cleaning it out, and as I said draining the tank and trying lower VG liquids.

No luck. It's still cracking and spurting. It works somewhat better with the 0.5 ohm coil (less gurgling) but it still spits just not as bad.

From threads on vaping forums I gather the gurgling means the coil might be flooded. What can I do to correct it? Don't have additional coils. It has a large range of settings but setting higher wattage just makes the problem worse.
 
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Tizmo

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Jan 15, 2017
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I had issues with mine too. After each time you refill your juice first make sure the top is screwed down finger tight. Next don't push the fire button but take a nice long (but not *super* forceful) draw to pull all the juice that flooded the coil into the center. Put a qtip down the driptip as far as it will go without pushing hard (the other end of the qtip should JUST barely stick out the driptip) then flip the whole thing upside down for a minute or two. When you flip it back over and remove the qtip, the end of the qtip will have soaked up the extra ejuice. This solved the whole problem for me and made me love my cupti again. Hope that helps! Btw I'm using the .5 ohm SS coils (the package with the pink lettering) at 75w and 215 degrees C.


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Tizmo

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Oh and I have stopped priming my coils because I find it makes the situation way worse. When I swap for a new coil I just fill the tank with juice and let it sit for like 30 mins or so to let it soak in. If you do prime I would say do one teensy drip on each side instead of two big ones or you will for sure have flooding.


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Tizmo

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Sorry one last thing, after I take a hit or few and I'm done for a bit (or a few mins lol) I super gently blow towards the driptip from several inches away from the cupti to clear out the leftover vapor that is still in the center tube. (You never get it all, or at least I don't) That way the condensation that is caused by the extra vapor doesn't turn back into juice at the bottom of the tube.


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Liazard

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Thanks! That really helps a lot. I'm finding also that in addition to keeping it upside down for awhile (10 min?), sometimes drawing on the mouthpiece while it's upside down helps. I'm still using the 1.5 ohm MTL coil. But using only 12W (but I'm only MTL). I tried a new coil with your suggestion (don't prime, let it sit instead to soak in) and it also helped a lot.

I'm also loving the Cupti a lot now. It is absolutely (almost) perfect.

Questions:
  • You said you're using 75w and 215 degrees C. Are you sure? My understanding from the instructions was that the temp control is disabled when you are using the wattage settings. (I might have that wrong).
  • What VG/PG proportion are you using in your liquid?
 
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Tizmo

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That's what the display reads yea. It set it to the watts automatically after detecting the coil. I attached a pic. To me the instructions say you can do temp control for any of the coils but only watt control for the NC coils? I'm using 70 VG/30 PG. 3 mg nic.
d0ba8de9f21e9900b27c72ba4eb821fb.jpg
4e8b9d94c70571d810fab0bf5b0bf578.jpg



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Liazard

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Well the manual isn't quite in King's English so it's hard to say who's right . But my take is: Look at #4 in the manual which is "full wattage" mode, then go to the third column, "Function". It says "Temperature control off". I take that to mean TC has no effect if you set wattage. When in wattage mode, the resistance should be detected automatically (in upper left of screen) and I assume it selects the right temperature for it. When you change coils, check the display and if the resistance is wrong pull the tank out far enough that the coil is above the liquid and replace it until it displays the correct resistance. Usually takes at least one try.

I played with TC for a while but I didn't like it at all and have been only using the wattage settings since.

But I don't think it's using the temperature setting that you set in the temperature screens when you're in full wattage mode. Only when you're in one of the 4 temperature control mode screens.

I could be wrong. This is my interpretation of some pretty indecipherable instructions! I have no idea what #7 means . . .
 
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Tizmo

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Hey you are right! Nice! Thank YOU! My battle is always keeping my ecig cool yet getting a nice hit of flavor and an ok cloud. I tend to chain vape a bit (I work from home processing real estate offers for sellers and it can get boring lol) so I've tried many tanks trying to find one that works for me. I stopped vaping about three years ago and started again a few months ago, just a personal choice (I feel like the little bit of nic wakes my brain up in the morning; due to side effects from a newish prescription I have been dealing with a severe lack of energy). After being out of the game for 3+ years *so* much has changed so I'm basically relearning everything about ecigs.

Seems like I can vape in the wattage mode at 38w as long as I give the cupti a second after hitting the fire button to warm up before I actually start taking a draw. It's a fine line for me on any tank/ecig between keeping the watts/temp low enough to keep it coolish for chain vaping and making sure it gets hot enough to prevent flooding (if it's not burning off the juice fast enough because it's too cool) but so far this seems to be a good setting. I'll play around with it a bit more too. Lemme know if you discover anything else and I'll do the same. Thanks again!


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Liazard

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To me the instructions say you can do temp control for any of the coils but only watt control for the NC coils? I'm using 70 VG/30 PG. 3 mg nic.
The manual doesn't say, but the box new 0.15 ohm coils come in says they are for TC mode only (you can also check online product descriptions). And if you look at the pictures of the screen in the Cupti manual, row #2, they all show the same resistance (upper left) as 0.15 ohm, not sure why if the only coil that's 0.15 ohm is the Ni. The other two types of coil, the ones that come with the Cupti (0.5 and 1.5 ohm) are listed in their specs (but not in the Cupti manual) with wattage ranges. NOTE it sounds like you're exceeding the recommended wattage for the 0.5 ohm SS coil.

Here's what it says on the MyVaporStore.com website about these CLOCC coils (Kanger CLOCC Replacement Coil Atomizer Head):

Stainless Steel may be used in Power (Wattage) Mode or Stainless Steel Temperature Control Mode:

SS316L - 0.5ohm (Recommended Wattage Range: 15 - 60W)

Nickel (Ni200) must be used in Nickel Temperature Control Mode:

Ni200 - 0.15 ohm (Please note, the Ni200 Atomizer Head is not compatible with the EVOD PRO or the TOGO Series)

NiChrome (NiCr) must be used in Power (Wattage) Mode:

NiCr - 1.5ohm (Recommended Wattage Range: 7 - 15W)

The lack of clarity in the Kanger manual strikes me as pretty irresponsible. Cupti is a great product but Kanger should be much more careful about the info they provide. The only way you can get the full story on the coils is to buy a package of coils or look it up on certain web pages.
 
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