mod and getting hot burning coils?

[virm]

could this happen?

this is the nunchaku 2 mod. has a separate problem (maybe not?) of fire button sticking.

it heats at the top especially and heat the tanks. nothing burning hot, but hotter the higher the wattage. but even the MTL tank gets a bit warm.

i've also burnt thru several coils. temperature control, my one try. burnt a couple of MTL coils. Burnt many Skrr S. maybe i'm not priming right or there's bad coils. but i have yet to successfully vape on the Skrr S, tried 5 coils on it and at best it isjust dry and flavourless, even when i let it wick for hours. __ starting to suspect the wattage is not accurate from mod.

tried two batteries as well. with higher wattages the warmth gets to the bottom of mod and into the batteries.

any of this normal? can a mod burn coils? is there a way to check the current or circuits at a vapeshop?

love and squalor

edt: sorry about the dyslexic title

 

[r77r7r]

Used to be a jiggy that you could screw on to measure output. I think amazon had them. Maybe just crank it waaaay down and see if it cools down. You're braver than me, with the harm that these batteries can do, I trash them at a hint of a malfunction. Kinda sounds like a malfunction up in the connector area. I think the stuck button is telling you something.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

I wouldn't use any power device with a sticking / sticky firing button, at all.
Stop using it until it is fixed & reliable, or replace the power device with one that functions correctly.

Coils don't need much priming, the wicking material does. It must be saturated.
Drip drops of liquid onto all exposed areas of wicking material until it is fully saturated.
Start off at a low power setting & gradually increase power taking a few vapes on each setting until you find what you like. If you get a hot, harsh, dry, weak flavor, odd, off or funky taste turn down the power before you notice burnt.

If you're burning coils you have the power set way too high. Or pressing the fire button way too long.
Or both.

Also could be lack of airflow, you have to move/draw/inhale enough air through delivery device to keep the coil cool.
Airflow is the coils cooling system.
Trying to Mtl a delivery device that is designed for Dtl creates disappointment.

 

[virm]

@r77r7r the button came that way, and the mod is still new. UWell want video proof of the malfunction, but i haven't been able to suppress the instinct to unstick the button every time it happens. With you on the worry though.

@Topwater Elvis thanks for the back to basics, it did help: what with all the gurgling i'd had and then having not DL-ed for the last 2-3 weeks, i seem to have stopped inhaling right for subohm tank. coils not dry hitting now. sorry to have lost at least 5 by the time i realize it. still have a bad taste in the one i'm using now and there's two i've unhooked that might be salvageable, we'll see.

what do you mean by the last sentence though? it's an MTL tnk and i set the mod to the recommended power output

 

[Topwater Elvis]

The ' recommended ' power output printed on the box or coil head maybe okay for a head that is 'broken in' & wicking properly.

Start off new thoroughly primed heads below the recommended range & gradually work your way up over the first half tank or so.

Mtl / Dtl are inhalation methods/techniques that match the airflow characteristics of a particular delivery device.
Especially when using replaceable coil head atomizers if you restrict the airflow too much or draw too hard you end up with gurgling & leaking / wet sputtery vape - flooding.
Too much power or too little airflow - hot harsh low flavor vape. Leading to burnt.

Frequent vaping can cause the tank to become warm, if you meant warm from just a few vapes - turn down the power.

If the power button is sticking, I wouldn't keep using it until it was repaired or replaced.
Sticky / sticking power button - stop using it.

 

[virm]

been abiding by those rules always i promise. just the flooding after fills, gurgling and the fact that i had exclusively MTLed the past while made me not want to/not used to inhale-ing strongly enough to break the DL coils in. seems i've resolved the issue of dry hitting new coils.
now if there's only a better trick to prevent flooding and gurgling when i fill, aside from the blow upside down, raise the power, leave it upside down overnight, fill slowly, etc.

it sticks every once in a while when i press it. i always press it un-stuck quickly enough so that it hasn't fired a total of more than 10 seconds, including the vape time that caused the stick. supposed to stop the firing anyway, i think, as a reg mod.

thanks

 

[stols001]

I can't answer your coils question.. Were you using kanthal coils for your TC "experiments" because that won't work. It won't hurt you but I could see your coils going nuts and burning.

I don't care if a button sticks for 2 seconds or 10. It's always got the possibility to INCREASE and then what will you do?? Send it back (maybe try to figure out what you did to cause it to be sticky if anything like leak all over the mod, etc.) but just SEND it in for warranty. it should not be doing that and YOU should not be finding it acceptable.

Anna

 

[virm]

I can't answer your coils question.. Were you using kanthal coils for your TC "experiments" because that won't work. It won't hurt you but I could see your coils going nuts and burning.

I don't care if a button sticks for 2 seconds or 10. It's always got the possibility to INCREASE and then what will you do?? Send it back (maybe try to figure out what you did to cause it to be sticky if anything like leak all over the mod, etc.) but just SEND it in for warranty. it should not be doing that and YOU should not be finding it acceptable.

Anna

just put it in a box and send it? to whom? fasttech or UWell?

FT contacted UWell and they gave them the same response UWell gave me: make a video. Which i keep failing to do. Neither of them suggested sending it.

oh_ and no. been a good lad: no experiments before checking reviews and here. tried TC once with the kit coils, SS316. Didn't fire at all, then just burnt the coils. Staying away from anything TC since. Also wouldn't use nichrome as i read it might be a health risk_ any reason i should reconsider sticking to kanthal?

 

[DaveP]

could this happen?

this is the nunchaku 2 mod. has a separate problem (maybe not?) of fire button sticking.

it heats at the top especially and heat the tanks. nothing burning hot, but hotter the higher the wattage. but even the MTL tank gets a bit warm.

i've also burnt thru several coils. temperature control, my one try. burnt a couple of MTL coils. Burnt many Skrr S. maybe i'm not priming right or there's bad coils. but i have yet to successfully vape on the Skrr S, tried 5 coils on it and at best it isjust dry and flavourless, even when i let it wick for hours. __ starting to suspect the wattage is not accurate from mod.

tried two batteries as well. with higher wattages the warmth gets to the bottom of mod and into the batteries.

any of this normal? can a mod burn coils? is there a way to check the current or circuits at a vapeshop?

love and squalor

edt: sorry about the dyslexic title

@https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/members/virm, I haven't used factory coils in many years, but mine used to come with a rubber sleeve that we referred to as a "condom" that covered the atty in the package. I had the problem you have when I tried to drip juice into the cotton. It's a long slow process to prime the coil with drops or squirts.

What I found successful was to fill the condom with juice and slowly slide the atomizer back into it, 510 threads first. That pushes the juice into the center of the coil and ensures that the cotton becomes saturated. As the juice is soaked in, slowly push the coil all the way down into the condom.

Let it sit in the juice for about 15 or 20 minutes, remove it, wipe off the excess, install it, and vape. I think you will find the problem solved if you use this method to soak the cotton filler.

 

[virm]

@https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/members/virm, I haven't used factory coils in many years, but mine used to come with a rubber sleeve that we referred to as a "condom" that covered the atty in the package. I had the problem you have when I tried to drip juice into the cotton. It's a long slow process to prime the coil with drops or squirts.

What I found successful was to fill the condom with juice and slowly slide the atomizer back into it, 510 threads first. That pushes the juice into the center of the coil and ensures that the cotton becomes saturated. As the juice is soaked in, slowly push the coil all the way down into the condom.

Let it sit in the juice for about 15 or 20 minutes, remove it, wipe off the excess, install it, and vape. I think you will find the problem solved if you use this method to soak the cotton filler.

thanks for the trick.

i'm closer to thinking it is off-measured mixes and wrong inhalation that's causing the coil problems. the break from DLing for a minute... muscles used to mtl. that and not having a sense of how of how to puff and pulse these wicks to get it going (in contrast to zlide, which i seem to be able to control better than my actual muscles)

heat also a bit better, maybe, not sure, maybe the colder waether is helping

leaves the button as the only confirmed issue. but it does it less when it's not overheating