Problems with Subtank Mini

[VaperZen]

My first post on this site, and quite a newb, so bear with me. I've seen lots of reference to using 20-25 watts on the Kanger OCC coils and I'm perplexed. I use an Istick 30 with the Kangertech subtank mini and use the 1.2 ohm stock head. The highest I have ever set the watts at is 15 and even that makes for a hot vape and burnt taste. I'm vaping usually between 7.5 and 9 watts, 3.0 V and get pretty good flavor and my first head lasted about 2 weeks before I notices a charred taste. So why am I seeing all this 20-25 watt stuff? Wouldn't that just fry the head immediately? BTW my juice is 30%PG/70% VG, 6 mg. nicotine.

fwtechwiz,
Hi, we are talking about the .5 ohm stock coil. If I was using a 1.2ohm coil I would also only vape that at about 8 watts or 3.8 volts

 

[VaperZen]

Okay Guys,
I got the new base in yesterday and cleaned everything and put it back together again w/ the new base. I have been Vaping on it since last night. ( I slept late so about 8 hours total) At first my Vapor Shark wouldn't read it ( the screen said Check atomizer) Then a couple hours later, after having done nothing to either mod not tank, it started working on the VS. It had worked all along on my iStick 50 watt and my sub ohm battery from Aspire. This is Not really long enough to tell for the long term but it wasn't working at ALL before. I haven't tried the RBA , but I will later. I hope this helps other people with this same problem!

 

[JAlexander]

just got a VF clone and can't wait to put a nickel build in there and see how it does. i love my Subtank mini, never had a problem with it. right now i run .5 OCC's, SMAX juice which is 10/90 pg/vg and it wicks great at 22.5-25W

 

[VaperZen]

I got a new base for mine yesterday and so far so good!

 

[paleh0rse]

also MVS has them Kanger Airflow Control Base - Subtank Mini

you can get a new base from Sweet-Vapes | Electronic Cigarettes & Hand Mixed E-Liquids it might solve your problem

Does anyone know if those bases are the older version with a single wide opening on just one side, or are they the newer version with two wide openings on opposite sides?

The pictures and descriptions don't say.

Edit: one of the pics at Sweetvapes shows the older version airflow that is solid on one side (for priming). That still doesn't mean they're not carrying the newer version instead, but it looks like I'll need to contact them directly to find out.

 

[paleh0rse]

I got a new base for mine yesterday and so far so good!

Which version did you get (old or new), and where did you order it from?

(See my post just above for a description of each version)

 

[NealBJr]

Okay Guys,
I got the new base in yesterday and cleaned everything and put it back together again w/ the new base. I have been Vaping on it since last night. ( I slept late so about 8 hours total) At first my Vapor Shark wouldn't read it ( the screen said Check atomizer) Then a couple hours later, after having done nothing to either mod not tank, it started working on the VS. It had worked all along on my iStick 50 watt and my sub ohm battery from Aspire. This is Not really long enough to tell for the long term but it wasn't working at ALL before. I haven't tried the RBA , but I will later. I hope this helps other people with this same problem!

I skipped the second page, but read the problem. I think I might know what's going on.

The center post on the Subtank are fixed. There's no changing them. When you set it to variable wattage, it adjusts the volts according to the resistance of the atomizer. The problem is, if your center post is not quite touching the center post on the mod, or if it touches lightly, it might cause fluctuations in the resistance of the atomizer. If it's set on variable wattage mode, it will increase the voltage to meet the higher resistance, and can pretty much fry a coil.

for example, if you were vaping along at .5 ohms and 35 watts, that puts about 4.1 volts through the coil. If, however, you push the button and your device reads it at 1.8 ohms, it will put about 7.1 volts through the coil. to my knowlege, ecigs do not dynamically adjust power, they take the reading when you first hit the button, change the voltage to match the wattage, then supply that voltage for the duration of the button press. If you have a fluctuating resistance, it could first read 1.8 ohms, but when you put it on your lips, or you move it slightly, it goes back down to the .5 ohm resistance.. 7.1 volts is a lot of power to be running through a .5 ohm head.

To test to see if it's happening to you, put it in variable volt mod, and use it that way for a while. See if the coils last longer. If you get times where there's not much vapor coming out, then that's when you have connection problems. If it still burns out, then you probably have a problem with the mod itself.

 

[VaperZen]

Does anyone know if those bases are the older version with a single wide opening on just one side, or are they the newer version with two wide openings on opposite sides?

The pictures and descriptions don't say.

Edit: one of the pics at Sweetvapes shows the older version airflow that is solid on one side (for priming). That still doesn't mean they're not carrying the newer version instead, but it looks like I'll need to contact them directly to find out.

The version I bought at sweet Vapes is the older version with just one side I open.

 

[VaperZen]

I skipped the second page, but read the problem. I think I might know what's going on.

The center post on the Subtank are fixed. There's no changing them. When you set it to variable wattage, it adjusts the volts according to the resistance of the atomizer. The problem is, if your center post is not quite touching the center post on the mod, or if it touches lightly, it might cause fluctuations in the resistance of the atomizer. If it's set on variable wattage mode, it will increase the voltage to meet the higher resistance, and can pretty much fry a coil.

for example, if you were vaping along at .5 ohms and 35 watts, that puts about 4.1 volts through the coil. If, however, you push the button and your device reads it at 1.8 ohms, it will put about 7.1 volts through the coil. to my knowlege, ecigs do not dynamically adjust power, they take the reading when you first hit the button, change the voltage to match the wattage, then supply that voltage for the duration of the button press. If you have a fluctuating resistance, it could first read 1.8 ohms, but when you put it on your lips, or you move it slightly, it goes back down to the .5 ohm resistance.. 7.1 volts is a lot of power to be running through a .5 ohm head.

To test to see if it's happening to you, put it in variable volt mod, and use it that way for a while. See if the coils last longer. If you get times where there's not much vapor coming out, then that's when you have connection problems. If it still burns out, then you probably have a problem with the mod itself.

I just bought a new base unit for the Subtank and I think, though it is to soon, but I think it may have fixed the problem : )

 

[NealBJr]

Ok..

I just bought a new base unit for the Subtank and I think, though it is to soon, but I think it may have fixed the problem : )

Ok.. it could just be a micro of a millimeter difference. If it happens again I would try the voltage setting. Also, constantly clean the 510 connector.. this should be done with any mod or any atomizer and probably once/day preferably.

 

[TaketheRedPill]

Is anyone else having problems with their Subtank Mini?
Mine is burning up the store bought coils as well as coils in the RBA section. I know there is something wrong with the bottom assembly of the tank, isn't that where something would be that kept shorting out my coils? I have gone through a box of coils in a months time plus about 6 coils I made. I even had my local Vape shop that specializes in RDA'S and high wattage devices build one for me. Some of you may have heard of them, Coval Vapes, anyway it blew a coil they built in the rba section as well. After that I'm positive that something it's definitely wrong with this tank. When I first bought the Subtank Mini it worked well but over time, 3 months, it quit working right.
The place I bought it from says it only had a 30 day warranty and to contact Kanger directly. Kanger said to contact my vendor and they would replace any parts that my vendor used to fix it. My vendor, Kanger wholesale USA, said sorry your out of luck.
Has anybody had this problem or know how to fix it? It would also be helpful to know where, if anywhere, I could buy just a replacement bottom assembly, assuming that's the problem. If anybody could help I would be very grateful!
Please help. I don't have the money to be wasting it on an expensive Subtank Mini that doesn't work!

replacement bottom assembly:
Subtank Base Airflow Controller - Kanger Subtank - Kangertech - Clearomizers Tanks
Kanger Subtank Mini RBA

 

[paleh0rse]

The version I bought at sweet Vapes is the older version with just one side I open.

Right on, good to know, thanks!

I bought two Subtank Minis at a local shop the other day and ended up with one of each version of the airflow base; so, I'm trying to find a place that sells the updated version by itself (I prefer the much improved airflow).

 

[VaperZen]

Right on, good to know, thanks!

I bought two Subtank Minis at a local shop the other day and ended up with one of each version of the airflow base; so, I'm trying to find a place that sells the updated version by itself (I prefer the much improved airflow).

I didn't even know there was a new base like that, Cool! Might be to new to be sold separately but if you find one please let me know! Thanks

 

[fwtechwiz]

I have three which I bought within two months of each other..one online, two from a local shop.
1 with Airflow on one side, one wide hole, two large holes, one large hole. (the online one)
2 with Airflow on two sides, one wide hole, one large hole, one very small hole.
The ones with the two small holes are good for mouth to lung vaping, especially when you've got some heavy menthol juice that's rough to direct hit.
I use the one with the airflow on one side for juice with cooler, subtle flavors that can hold up to a long direct hit.

 

[fwtechwiz]

one of my tanks started fluctating on ohms, no matter what RBA head I used on the base, until it just read 'no atomizer'. I noticed the lower part of the base had come very slightly unscrewed. I tightened the bottom part of the base back up, and ohms are reading solid again. So check your base for tightness.

 

[dcfluegel]

Hey tmcguffie,
I had the same problem. I had my husband drill tiny holes in the sides of the rba section of the Subtank mini, after that it worked great. Well, while it worked, it worked well. Just screw the rba section on tight like you would putting in the tank, then mark right where the liquid channels are, then drill holes above the mark. Make sure you get the holes in the right place. Then wash it off very well. As you wick it make sure you use just a little bit more cotton to have enough to place some in the juice channels and enough to pack the holes with, just like you would if you were rebuilding one of the Subtank Mini store bought coils. Then vape away! You may need to adjust the amount of cotton to your liking, as well as the size holes you punch. I used the smallest drill bit he has, I'm just not sure what size but he has all sizes so it would be the smallest one made. Hope this helps, like everyone here helped me.

for what it is worth, the new V2 Kanger Subtank Mini RBA comes with big juice flow holes in the side already and you can get those separately for about $8 - well worth it in my opinion - huge upgrade on the original RBA deck (and I had drilled all of my original version RBAs also, made a big difference in performance)