Protank 2 vs protank 2 mini question???

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Shane1989

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Hey everyone!!

ok so I have a protank 2 and I really like it a lot. The only problem I have with it is that it leaks like crazy when it gets below 1/3 full. I read that it has to do with the vaccum inside the take, which I get. Besides that it's great and I think I am going to get a protank 2 mini.

My question is does the protank 2 mini also leak when it gets below 1/3 full??

this may be a stupid question but I would appreciate any responses I could get

thanks
shane
 

03FXDWG

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My Protank only leaks when I let it sit vertically for long periods of time with a thin liquid in it. The mini never leaks. I vape until my tanks are almost dry without issue.

Have you changed the coil/head? Thin liquid? Drawing too hard or not firing hot enough--ohms too high for battery output?

Which ohm is your coil? What voltage or wattage do you have your battery set at?
 

Rickajho

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No leaking issues here. And you are using 100 VG so... gotta ask:

Are you modifying the coil in any way? Removal of top wicks or removal of the silicone cap from the vent tube on the coil reduces or eliminates the ability of the tank to hold a partial vacuum. Personally, I use thick 100 VG stuff and find no benefit in removing top wicks to use it. If anything I've had a few Kanger coils with insufficient top wicks and had to add wicking, not remove it, to get a coil to feel liquid properly.

Have you taken it apart to check assembly? And out of place glass o-ring or a bad piece of glass with large edge chips can cause loss of vacuum.

Are you using the right coils? There is no "universal" Kanger coil. The version made for PT/EVOD is different than the coil for the T3s/MT3s and the base fitting they go into is correspondingly different. Put a T3s/MT3s coil into a PT base and it may not seal properly, resulting in another way to lose vacuum.

Are you drawing too hard? Pulling too hard on a Kanger BCC can actually bypass the vacuum, drawing liquid right into the vent tube. (And up the mouth piece if you pull really hard.) Stop drawing - and that liquid gets pulled right back down by the vacuum and dumps out the bottom of the coil.
 
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MotherNatural

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I use PT2's with 100%VG. I also added the air flow base (sold separately) which helped performance considerably. Also, switch the wick to organic cotton. It absorbs so much better and helps with both volume and flavor. I've never had one leak but one of them sometimes gurgles and spits. I have to remove the head and blot out under it with a paper towel then replace it good and tight. I don't know why but this is only a problem with one of them and was a problem straight out of the box. One of Rip Trippers how-to recoil video suggests removing the silicone ring on the stem of the head to get better juice flow with 100% VG. I haven't tried it yet as I haven't had issues once I switched to cotton wicking.
 

Shane1989

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No leaking issues here. And you are using 100 VG so... gotta ask:

Are you modifying the coil in any way? Removal of top wicks or removal of the silicone cap from the vent tube on the coil reduces or eliminates the ability of the tank to hold a partial vacuum. Personally, I use thick 100 VG stuff and find no benefit in removing top wicks to use it. If anything I've had a few Kanger coils with insufficient top wicks and had to add wicking, not remove it, to get a coil to feel liquid properly.

Have you taken it apart to check assembly? And out of place glass o-ring or a bad piece of glass with large edge chips can cause loss of vacuum.

Are you using the right coils? There is no "universal" Kanger coil. The version made for PT/EVOD is different than the coil for the T3s/MT3s and the base fitting they go into is correspondingly different. Put a T3s/MT3s coil into a PT base and it may not seal properly, resulting in another way to lose vacuum.

Are you drawing too hard? Pulling too hard on a Kanger BCC can actually bypass the vacuum, drawing liquid right into the vent tube. (And up the mouth piece if you pull really hard.) Stop drawing - and that liquid gets pulled right back down by the vacuum and dumps out the bottom of the coil.
Thanks for the reply. Everything checks out fine on it and they are the right protank coils. Still using the ones that came with it. My only problem is when it gets below 1/3. It leaks heavily on the inside battery connector and I get juice in my mouth and it seems like it's clogged. I have read a lot of people have this problem when it gets too low and most contribute it to the low vaccum
 

Shane1989

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I use PT2's with 100%VG. I also added the air flow base (sold separately) which helped performance considerably. Also, switch the wick to organic cotton. It absorbs so much better and helps with both volume and flavor. I've never had one leak but one of them sometimes gurgles and spits. I have to remove the head and blot out under it with a paper towel then replace it good and tight. I don't know why but this is only a problem with one of them and was a problem straight out of the box. One of Rip Trippers how-to recoil video suggests removing the silicone ring on the stem of the head to get better juice flow with 100% VG. I haven't tried it yet as I haven't had issues once I switched to cotton wicking.

Thanks for the reply!! Again only when it gets low do I have this problem and starts spitting juice up I to my mouth.

I am considering removing that silicone too! I definitely think that would help with the vapor production on 100vg that is super thick. To be honest I can't quite tell what that ring does anyway. Doesn't seem like it really helps regulate the liquid on to the flavor wicks. I'm just afraid it might leak if it try that...
 

BigEgo

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Never had a leaking problem with the protank 2 mini. And, yes, I routinely vape it until it's empty. Never leaks. Never floods. I use the stock heads.

I want to start wrapping my own coils (micro-coils as Rip Trippers calls them). The protank coils do not taste good past about 9 watts. Anything higher than 9 results in a burnt taste (at least for me). Trippers was hitting his protank 2 mini at 15 watts on his video with his own coil.

But as for leaking, never had a problem as long as I am using the long stem. (Now that I think about it, I used to get leaking and flooding using those short stem heads). So, yeah, use the long stemmed heads if you can find them. They are easier to work with and do not give me any problems.
 

SleeZy

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Never had a leaking problem with the protank 2 mini. And, yes, I routinely vape it until it's empty. Never leaks. Never floods. I use the stock heads.

I want to start wrapping my own coils (micro-coils as Rip Trippers calls them). The protank coils do not taste good past about 9 watts. Anything higher than 9 results in a burnt taste (at least for me). Trippers was hitting his protank 2 mini at 15 watts on his video with his own coil.

But as for leaking, never had a problem as long as I am using the long stem. (Now that I think about it, I used to get leaking and flooding using those short stem heads). So, yeah, use the long stemmed heads if you can find them. They are easier to work with and do not give me any problems.

The long stemmed ones are orginal for the protank series. The one with shorter stem is made for evods. (Atleast i think it's the evods, i saw it on a youtube video)
 
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